Coolant pipes replacement

[ekwan]

I need to replace the 2 pipes that run from front to the rear. They pipe ends are literally crumbling to powder. This is for an S3 NA (1984).

No written procedures for this in the Workshop Manual, so I was wondering if anyone here has done it before and can tell me if it's that big deal of a job before I begin.

 

 

[CarBuff]

I think on an '83 you can pull them out from the front, luckily.

 

On later cars (86+) the only way to get them out is to pull them backward, but the engine is in the way.

 

PS:  Have you considered the option of sawing off the corroded ends, then splicing hose into the middle via the shifter opening in the backbone?

[Chillidoggy]

You could also replace them entirely with rubber pipes.

[CarBuff]

Rubber hoses sticking out of the backbone wouldn't look as ORIGINAL.

 

But come to think of it, doesn't ORIGINAL means DRIPPING? 😁

[910Esprit]

Heater pipes or main coolant pipes?

[ekwan]

12 minutes ago, 910Esprit said:

Heater pipes or main coolant pipes?

Main coolant pipes.

29 minutes ago, CarBuff said:

I think on an '83 you can pull them out from the front, luckily.

 

On later cars (86+) the only way to get them out is to pull them backward, but the engine is in the way.

 

PS:  Have you considered the option of sawing off the corroded ends, then splicing hose into the middle via the shifter opening in the backbone?

If I am going to start on them, I'd rather replace the entire length. My logic is that if they were corroded at any point, there's likely to be corrosion else where. I already had to replace a couple of core plugs in the cylinder head as they had "burst through" with a simple pressure test.

 

My thoughts are that stainless steel pipes would go in as replacements.

Edited November 23, 2019 by ekwan

[CarBuff]

I am of the belief that a more modern OAT or HOAT coolant will not corrode aluminum. In the USA, Zerex Z-05 or Asian, or Honda Type II would achieve long term reliability.  Those types keep the cooling system REALLY clean and clog/corrosion free in my experience.

 

Requires a through flushing, though.

[ekwan]

3 minutes ago, CarBuff said:

I am of the belief that a more modern OAT or HOAT coolant will not corrode aluminum. In the USA, Zerex Z-05 or Asian, or Honda Type II would achieve long term reliability.  Those types keep the cooling system REALLY clean and clog/corrosion free in my experience.

 

Requires a through flushing, though.

This car is currently undergoing restoration work. It's in the final stages (or so I think).

It's been in dry storage for 32 years, having only done 22,500 miles by its original owner.

 

P.S. I tend to use the Audi G12 or G13 coolants as I do find them pretty good.

Edited November 23, 2019 by ekwan

[CarBuff]

Just now, ekwan said:

 

It's been in dry storage for 32 years, having only done 22,500 miles by its original owner.

That explains your leakage.  A friend's S4s Chargecooler system started to disintegrate the coolant piping at the hose joints because the coolant was not moving!

[ekwan]

3 minutes ago, CarBuff said:

That explains your leakage.  A friend's S4s Chargecooler system started to disintegrate the coolant piping at the hose joints because the coolant was not moving!

🤣🤣🤣 As if I could help it 🤣🤣🤣

 

If there was any coolant in the system in the first place, it would have chemically degraded by now.

Edited November 23, 2019 by ekwan

[910Esprit]

17 minutes ago, ekwan said:

Main coolant pipes.

In that case the main radiator return has a 90 degrees bend in it (as it exits the front chassis).  So it will only come out from the front.   Howver, the rad pack and possibly other things will be in your way, so it'll be a bit of a faff...

[DaveyT]

As Steve said,

For my ‘82....undertray, rad pack, and front spoiler need to come off, then they can be pulled straight out from the front.

worth checking the heater pipes while you have the front end bits off too.

have fun

[ekwan]

5 hours ago, DaveyT said:

As Steve said,

For my ‘82....undertray, rad pack, and front spoiler need to come off, then they can be pulled straight out from the front.

worth checking the heater pipes while you have the front end bits off too.

have fun

The radiator and aircon condenser are on the floor. I replaced the cooling fans and cleaned up the radiator. On reassembly, I found the ends of the alloy coolant pipes flaking away big time. Hence, the questions...........

Edited November 23, 2019 by ekwan

[ekwan]

8 hours ago, 910Esprit said:

Heater pipes or main coolant pipes?

Main coolant pipes

 

[drdoom]

Presume all coolant and heater pipes to be terminal at this age. Check out the heater core via pressure test if possible. Run appropriate anitfreeze mixed with pure, distilled water and you will have longevity of system components as long as you maintain this through periodic replacement of the coolant mixture. 

[ekwan]

2 hours ago, drdoom said:

Presume all coolant and heater pipes to be terminal at this age. Check out the heater core via pressure test if possible. Run appropriate anitfreeze mixed with pure, distilled water and you will have longevity of system components as long as you maintain this through periodic replacement of the coolant mixture. 

Unfortunately, it's too late to pass on your words of wisdom to the previous owner. But yes, in my hands she'll definitely get some TLC.

[ekwan]

22 hours ago, CarBuff said:

That explains your leakage.  A friend's S4s Chargecooler system started to disintegrate the coolant piping at the hose joints because the coolant was not moving!

Plus the electrolytic effect due to lack of a good quality coolant.

[ekwan]

On 23/11/2019 at 18:04, DaveyT said:

worth checking the heater pipes while you have the front end bits off too.

have fun

I'd bypass the heater as it isn't needed in the tropical heat.

[ekwan]

 

These are the pipes removed from the car. Ends are falling to dust.

Not something I would re-use.

[Daniel]

I've replaced both the main cooling pipes and the heater pipes which run through the chassis. They all pulled out through the front once I'd removed the radiator. I also replaced the little plastic shrouds which hold them tight within the holes at both ends.