Front radiator and oil cooler Re-assembly

[Mightymetro]

I’m now at the stage where I’m ready to put the new radiator and oil coolers etc back on the car but the problem is when I got the car back some of the fixtures and fittings and a couple of undertray plastics were already removed etc

does anyone know a rough running order on what gets fitted first etc etc And what order 🤔

 

[cweeden]

Sorry, I don't but I'm sure you'll get more responses if you share some pictures of the rad pack ready to go back in. 🙂 

[Espritv8black]

So,  I am no expert.......but am in the process currently of re-coring my Radiator. I have a 98 V8 so that you know.   I just took out all the Bits and Pieces and have it on the floor in my garage.  I did do it all myself so here is what I see as far as the order goes.  Mine did not have the cover under the oil coolers attached when i started as the previous owner had it off and never put it back on.  I haven't had any road debris issue with the lower covers removed from the oil coolers.

I think the order would be as follows. 1st put the new or rebuilt Radiator back inside the frame.  Either bolt the frame and braces back together or rivet it as was done originally.  Once you are confident that you have the frames put together correctly and I would recommend that new foam be installed on the Top and on the bottom of the frame that the radiator sits in.  I haven't measured the foam but it looks to be approximately 2 inches square or 50 mm square.  I would think a Home Store or a Fabric store will have the foam needed.  It is stuck on by tape.  Next I would install the 2 AC Condenser cores on the front of the Radiator.  There is a bracket that holds them together in the middle and bolts to the frame.  I had to unhook my AC lines that went into the AC Condensers and I will probably take the opportunity to change the rubber o ring that is on the line by the nut that you tighten.  The O ring's that I see are all green, not quite Lotus green, but green.  I actually left the 2 triangular brackets that are attached to the bottom of the frame and the stabilizer bar attached when I removed the Radiator.  Also, you will need to have the plastic cover attached to the backside of the radiator, which is what the fans are mounted in.  I would try and put this assembly up in as high and as far toward the rear of the car as possible.  Again, I haven't done this yet and I am trying to describe how it all came out and am reversing the procedure.  Once the radiator frame and assembly is laying in the cavity I would then take the fiberglass assembly that has the front side to side oil cooler line going thru it and would try to get it in place with the inside oil cooler ducts also already with the hose going thru them, so it is 3 pieces at the same time.  I would then try to get the Radiator in the Fiberglass assembly so that you can bolt the fiberglass assembly thru the top of the underside thru the front truck area.  I think it was 3 long bolts on each side.  If yiou are able to get the bolts thru the fiberglass assembly I would put a lock nut on the bottom of the nut and use vise grips on the nut and then go back up to the top under the hood/bonnet and tighten the bolt with a 13 mm socket.  Once all the bolts are secure on each side I would then try to attach the radiator to the support which was 2 bolts on the side which are 10 mm bolts.  If you haven't shot yourself by now or if you getting ready to stop take a deep breath and preferably have a beer, your preference on the beer.  If you decide to continue then something that probably should have been done prior to the radiator assembly being put up is new hoses attached for the top and bottom radiator .  I think the hoses should be 1st put on the coolant pipes at the middle of the car.  This is also the perfect time to replace / inspect the heater diverter valve which is right there in front of you.

I will continue this write up a bit later as I have a bit of work to do now.  Here is also the parts diagram for the assembly

 

Lotus V8 Cooling Diagram and Part Numbers.pdf

[Mightymetro]

Thank you for the very detailed write up.  Will hopefully be tackling this Friday evening so will let you know how I get on 👍🏻

[cweeden]

@Espritv8black there seems to be something wrong with the parts diagram, I only see blank pages. Would you mind uploading it again?

Thanks

-Chris

[tomcattom]

I'll be following this with interest because my pack is out too and due to go back in place later this month.

Mine all came out quite easilty because lots of parts were absent, so I'm expecting a bit more of a struggle when it comes to putting it all back in with the missing pieces of the jigsaw back in situ.

[Espritv8black]

Let me try to upload the parts diagram again.  I will be picking up my new Radiator this week also.  Usually we grill hamburgers on Friday night with a few adult beverages and maybe a cigar, so I probably wont get to work on it, but you never know.

Mark Seifert

[Espritv8black]

Lets see if this works this time.Lotus V8 Cooling Diagram and Part Numbers.pdf

It looks like it is an attachment that you download and then it will open.

[cweeden]

👍 😀

[Espritv8black]

I have been slow to work on the Esprit.  I changed my radiator to a 3 Core unit instead of the 2 core, since they are sensitive to running hot.  Where I live outside of Baltimore Maryland in the summer it can and will get high 90's F and over 100F, so it seemed like a good idea.  The slight issue is when piecing the Radiator assembly / Frame  together around the new Radiator there are 4 braces that run top to bottom at the edge of the side tanks and now that the internal core is thicker they do not fit as they should???  You can definitely attach 2 on the front of the assembly, but then the back braces stick out slightly.  I think I can assemble as is and put some washers in between to act as spacers.  Also, trying to re assemble the frame with rivets again is not really working, so I am changing to bolts and nuts with lock rings.  I will try to post updated pictures of progress.  It is slightly less scary now, just a pain.  Maybe I should treat myself to some cold Guinness beers afterward.......instead of the Miller High Lifes!!!!

[Mightymetro]

Finally have it all fitted back, what an absolute cock about.  I did manage it by myself in the end with some wood as chocking and a jack.  Also note that luckily I don’t have a chargecooler radiator or air con so it was a bit lighter.  However, now I know exactly how I did it I’m much more confident doing it all again.  Turned out the new radiator had the frame on wrong which delayed a bit while I head scratched!!!!!!! 
Heres a rough guide

I went for a new three core radiator which had the frame included.  I replaced the top and bottom foam with closed cell foam to stop water retention.  I think the top one was 50mm x 50mm and the bottom one was 30mm x 30mm (the top wedges to the underside of the body but the bottom one doesn’t touch the bottom of the radiator tray as I guess the gap is for water to run out).  I fitted Spal fans to the original abs fan shroud as can be seen in an earlier thread.  Don’t know if I just caught a break or lots of luck but they fit back up in the gap without hitting the radiator braces but there’s only a couple of mm clearance.  If you bolted straight to the rad frame I’m sure you would have loads of room

anyhow, here’s the order I refitted with pictures.  Bear in mind my front bumper is still fitted and you could maybe fit it complete if you removed it’s

1 - bolted the radiator into the radiator tray / duct with the 2 x m6 bolts and put thread lock on the top bolt but not on the bottom one as I had to remove this later to fit the oil cooler ducts 

2 - fed the oil cooler cross pipe through the radiator duct and then put the inner half of the oil cooler ducts onto the pipe so they are next to the main duct but leave them loose and only held on by the pipe.  If you fasten them to the radiator duct with the bottom m6 bolt I struggled to get clearance when lifting.

3 - fasten the chassis to radiator duct (triangle) brackets into the radiator duct through the slotted hole.  Tighten them loosely as you need to be able to move them side to side.  I tried fitting with these fastened to the car but it didn’t leave enough room to lift the rad pack

4 - slide the rad pack under the car and push it roughly into position.  I then lifted each side 50mm at a time and kept using wood to pack it up.  2 people really would make this much easier.  It’s quite tight  past the fog lights but it is do able.  I was too far committed to drop it again but if you could remove them it would really help with clearance.

5 - I got the top of the triangle radiator support bracket bolts in first on both sides and then gently jacked the radiator duct up checking for any obstructions until you can get the bottom bolt through (the one that shares the ARB clamp bolt) Careful with the L/H water hose as the thinner pipe goes through the triangle bracket.  Initial I went over the top and it ended up getting trapped

6 - put bolts through the under bonnet area to the duct underneath and got it all fastened up.  I needed another pair of hands to help with a couple of them as I couldnt reach above and below the car 

7- back under the car and undo the bottom M6 bolt that fastens the radiator to the duct and move the half oil cooler duct that had the hose though it and bolt it together.  I used threadlock this time 

8- get the other half of the oil cooler duct and put it in place and fasten the two half’s together.  I used plastic push rivets which I think is what Lotus use.  Easy to get out then if you need to remove

9 - put the central bumper duct in place and fasten it to the radiator duct using the 3 central bolts and 2 up under the bumper / body at each end

10 - refit the oil coolers and pipe up

ive still got to fit the under trays but they look pretty straight forward and I have replaced the foam on these for some closed cell foam

 

[Espritv8black]

Looks very well done.  When I took mine out The Radiator assembly was the last item I removed and I had it separated from the Radiator Tray / Duct.  I did not remove the Triangular braces from the suspension when I removed my assembly, but did undo the front bolts.  I think I will put it back in the same way you did with the tray assembly bolted to the Radiator frame etc. I will also take some pictures and try to document best I can while I am doing it.

[Mightymetro]

I took mine out the same way but the new radiator is pretty heavy and I was struggling to find a way to keep the radiator in place while o got the duct in place without damaging it.

it also looked a bit of a pain to line the radiator up once in position so this way made it much easier in my opinion 

[Espritv8black]

I am glad you shared that, I  also thought  it  would  be  difficult  to attach the tray and radiator  assembly  together  in the car .  I will do as you have. I need to get on it this week.

[Espritv8black]

Someone shoot me. Man what a pain. Even with the Radiator  out the hoses are still a small pain to change. I did test the water diverter  valve when  all was out. I thought  it might have been the issue why I have no heat. I never have had heat and really only a few times was it a chilly issue. I put vacuum  on the valve and the vacuum  held so I assume  it is working correctly ?  It will continue  to be a slow project for me for many reasons, but I will be happy once it is done.

[Espritv8black]

I tried to do the lifting of the radiator assembly with the housing / brace and ducting myself.... mistake #1, so I took it apart and bolted up the radiator housing assembly without the radiator pack in it......probably mistake number 2.  I still had the triangular braces in and it just looks like it is too difficult to maneuver with them in, so I did take them out.  I think before I remove the radiator ducting / brace I am going to loosen the bolts that hold it up that are accessed thru the front trunk area.  I want to see if it is lowered or in the back if it will enable me to then install the radiator into the brace and bolt it in.  If not I know I will have to remove the radiator housing assembly and try it again with the radiator pack all assembled together.  Has anyone installed the radiator while not attached to the assembly and the assembly bolted in place maybe loosely?  I will be glad if and when I finish.  I need a pep talk.

[Chillidoggy]

You could try using four long lengths of stud bar. Wind the complete assembly up on them.

[fjmuurling]

Something like this:

 

[Espritv8black]

I saw you did that and I might just do that as I don't have any help in this coronovirus world right now,  I want to get this done and cross it off the list and start driving my car again.  These cars are so rare that you just don't see them much here.  I know there were a few cars that I did damage to in my life, so now I am committed to saving these rare cars and making sure they continue life.  I am just a curator and caretaker for the moment.   Thanks the advice is greatly appreciated.

[Espritv8black]

So, In this government mandated lock down I was out in the garage today and took out the radiator assembly that I installed without the Radiator in it.  I also took off the front radiator duck / lip in the center of the lower grill.  Once on the ground I decided to take the oil cooler line off and the 2 inner half shell ducts for the oil coolers.  I believe that I can install those bits after the radiator pack is in.  I have the car on a 4 post storage lift and while it helps it hinders a bit in clearance when you try to put the radiator pack in.  The lift did come with a trolley that fits between the drive on ramps that you can put a jack on to lift something, so I was able to pick up the radiator assembly / package by myself.  I hoisted it under where it belonged.  It was much easier without the front oil line and partial duck work installed.  I was able to get it close to where it belongs and roll the trolley underneath the assembly.  Now I have it close, but need to inch it up by either blocks of wood underneath or as Ian Lord and Freek in the Netherlands suggested using long threaded rod and effectively pulling up the assembly.  I feel like I am closer and once I get a bolt in.....anywhere to hold the assembly up I will feel like I really have done something.  The Saga continues.

[Espritv8black]

So I am working on the Radiator assembly again in between cleaning the house......keep wife happy and planting some plants outside....,.and feeling like that I am making progress.  Ultimately I positioned the Radiator assembly underneath and yesterday I went to the Home Depot here in the states and bought (10) 2 inch x 4 inch x 2 foot boards and also a large package of wood shims that we would use to shim a door in place when framing.  I stacked about 3 of the 2x4x2 under each side of the Radiator assembly, then I pushed up the assembly on one side and put a stack of shims on top of the boards in between the boards and the Radiator.  I repeated on the other side and that got the assembly very close to where it needs to be.  Then I started to attach the Y brackets on each side to help hold up the radiator.  On the left side where the radiator hose is at bottom of the radiator, you really need to attach it prior to putting the Y bracket on to make your life easier.  I was then close enough to get the front bolts thru the Radiator support in the front of the car.  These are the bolts use have to access thru the front trunk assembly.;  That is where I am currently as my lovely wife wanted to each lunch.  I need to post some pictures.

[Mightymetro]

I’m not sure you can feed the oil hose through once it’s up there but I’m not 100% sure

[Espritv8black]

The blocks of wood technique worked, finally progress.  We'll see how many bolts I have extra.....or missing at the end.  Now how was that wiring routed for the fans..........

Mightymetro.....don't bring me down brother..........I will see I think I can.....who need oil coolers anyway!!!!!!!!

Edited March 26, 2020 by Espritv8black

[Espritv8black]

Front oil lines went in no problem  then  I  put the inner and outer ducts in for oil coolers . Need some fasteners so work will continue  tomorrow. Maybe tomorrow  I will have it all tightened  up. Still need oiler coolers in and oiler cooler lines done and  1 or 2 bolts here and there and fans put back in.... Guess I still  have  some work to do.

[Espritv8black]

Since Mightymetro wouldn't / couldn't come to the States to help me........I had to step it up a notch.   So I finished the install last night of the fans and wiring for the fans and rechecked all hose connections.  I had to button up the AC lines in front of the Radiator and put on some new Green O -Rings.  I also bought a new Receiver / Drier. but was having a problem with getting the electrical connector out of the old one, so I moved forward and put the old one in for now.  The AC has never worked and I was too excited to let that hold me up.  I changed the oil filter and drained the oil overnight.  Today was the day.....spun a new Mobil 1 filter on, with a magnet on the bottom of the filter.  Put 7 quarts of 15/50 synthetic oil in along with a container of liquid moly a product called Cera Tec, high tec anti wear additive.  I filled up new coolant with Zerex coolant.  I was excited to start her............and of course the item I forgot was the battery was not on my charger and it just did not have the juice, so I cleaned the car up and will wait for tomorrow to start her up.