Oil Change

[rogerch]

I'm doing an oil change before I put it back on the ground, I've only done this once before, this time I'm going to try getting the front as high as possible, see if I can get more out of the coolers, I'll measure what I get and report back. But as I recall when I took the sump plug out, the stream of oil hit the chassis rail and pi$$ed everywhere. Is there a trick to stopping this.

Roger

[tinywillyuk]

I wouldnt call it a trick, but I tend to let some of the weight in oil drain with the plug still in, just hanging on by a thread or so. It tends to drain straight down into the tray then. Though Ive not yet invested in a big enough tray..

[Gasman GT3]

What about an oil extraction pump? I have one with a 6ltr capacity I use on our Smart Roadster (it has no sump plug) I am going to use it on the esprit for the next oil change.

[rogerch]

This is probably old wives and woman's tails but I like doing it via the sump plug, in the hopes it helps flush any deposits or sludge and other things that shouldn't be there if you change your oil regularly.

but I also like to strain the oil I take out looking for things I don't want to see, which I would not be able to do if I pumped it out via the dip stick.

Roger

[rogerch]

Oil change done, I found a couple of things that worked for me.

This was my solution to the oil spraying all over the chassis rail, it's just a piece of cardboard, and I managed to drain the lot with a single drop anywhere other than the drain tray. (until the bloody filter)

I got the nose higher than the sump usually we jack the back up just to get to the sump, but this time I got the nose higher, telling myself I would be able to drain more from the cooler by doing so. Suprisingly I was right I got as near as damn it 6 litres.

[jonwat]

Another useful tip is to leave it draining overnight before you remove the filter which will then have drained of oil so when you remove it the next day it doesn't leak oil all over the block & floor.

Also alows you to clean & degrease the sump hole threads properly which alows the threadlocking stuff to grip the sump plug better.

Also, when you refill her the block is cold which minimises any risk of warping by the cold oil.

Cheers,

John W

[DBredS4]

Jees!.

Get a pella pump and never jack up a car for an oil change again. pop out the dipstick, put hose into hole down to the bottom of the sump, pump 20 times and hot oil comes out into the bottle. when sump starts to gurgle, its empty. Top up with as much fresh clean oil and jobs a good'un. Filter might require a bit of attention but at least you weren't under the damn car getting filthy.

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/...nsfer-equipment

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/...nsfer-equipment

that sort of thing...

Oil change done, I found a couple of things that worked for me.

This was my solution to the oil spraying all over the chassis rail, it's just a piece of cardboard, and I managed to drain the lot with a single drop anywhere other than the drain tray. (until the bloody filter)

I got the nose higher than the sump usually we jack the back up just to get to the sump, but this time I got the nose higher, telling myself I would be able to drain more from the cooler by doing so. Suprisingly I was right I got as near as damn it 6 litres.

[rogerch]

You didn't read post 4 did you, don't get me wrong I hate getting dirty more than most, but if I'm going to work my car hard, and I do, I'm also going to be super fussy, because I don't want to be stuck out in the wild blue yonder trying to get phone coverage for a break down truck.

When I put drained oil through a fine gauze and find metal I know I have problem that needs investigation before it get expensive like blowing things up. the pump via dip stick method cannot guarantee to pick that up.

I have only had this car 12 months, I didn't like the oil I initially took out of it, and I didn't build the engine, that's 2 good reasons to not trust it and I don't! Having said that compression is good oil pressure is good, oil consumption is zero, and there are no traces of foreign bodies in the drained oil.

Roger

[Simon350S]

My 85 Turbo has a thermostat in the oil cooler lines so unless the oil is very hot when you drain it theres no chance of emptying the oil cooler rad, feed or return lines.

Not sure if this is the same on later cars though.

[rogerch]

That's interesting, my oil was hot and judging by the quantity I got out I did manage to at least get some from the coolers. But when I came to run it up with the fresh oil I got really curious gurgling sounds, quite worrying actually but it came good as soon as I started to see pressure on the gauge. But it would make sense if it was struggling to open a thermostat with air in line.

[rogerch]

I must be getting good at this, I got the full 6.3 liters in on my annual oil change and service, in fact I suspect a bit more meaning I was low when I drained it, naughty naughty.

Funnily enough buddy with the V8 came over, looked at in the garage, and inquires, "Why's the front so high".

[Bibs]

If its empty, its empty. The quantity you removed would tell you how much was in there, not how much you refilled it with...

[Richard123]

Doesn't the oil get pumped through the oil coolers before lubricating the engine and turbocharger?

 

If so, is it good logic to want to remove the oil from the coolers and lines?  It would make oil starvation on first start-up appreciably longer, no?  

 

Did you notice if it took some extra time to get oil pressure Roger? 

[rogerch]

Bibs, if you jack the car up at the back to gain access to the drain plug, you can't get all the oil out, because the oil coolers being at the front are now lower than the drain point and physics will prevail. So as pointed out in an earlier post, same thread, I put it on stands using the the 2 rear jacking points, then jack up the front to raise the coolers higher than the drain hole. Failing to get all the oil out is why so many people only ever manage to get 5 new liters in.

 

Richard, I invariably do a plug change at the same time, so having put the new oil in I spin the motor on the starter without plugs (reduced stress on the journals) to circulate the oil, that way I minimize running on low pressure. (Always an anxious moment though)

[Mike6]

I'd have thought that you would have needed to get the front of the car really high for the oil cooler to drain back into the sump via the oil pump housing. When I change my oil I let the car off the jack to get the last of the oil out and it then seems to take the full amount of new oil

[rogerch]

Seems a long time ago now, old house, and before the rebuild and re-spray.

[dodge1979]

Just undo the union on the coolers every year..I do this and the added benefit is the joint wont sieze and cause issues with any work that may require their removal etc..its really the best way. Coolers are emptied. Hoses are emptied. And I also remove the sump on every oil change. There is always a quantity of oil remaining in the sump no matter how hard you try and drain it..perhaps a lttle ott for some but ive always done this on all cars ive serviced..

[rogerch]

Now that's a good idea!

[lotusesprit1]

I recently did an oil change,  on first start up of the day is takes an age at idle to get get oil pressure. if I press the throttle the oil light flashes on. after about 30 seconds all is well with good oil pressure. is this normal? of have I got a dodgy one way valve in the filter or something?

 

Thanks

Paul