Driveshaft retaining pins stuck, and punch tool stuck too

[Sparky]

@Michael

The other nice thing about using my suggestion is that you then have a couple of handles to grab whilst manoeuvring the box. I never touch rollpins unless they need replacing (leaks etc.)

Regarding flywheel bolts - I exploit physics. Socket on the bolt, bar angled to cross the centre of the flywheel, meaning the moment exerted by the bar is far less likely to turn the engine. Couple of sharp taps or a good yank, and off! I have never, ever, had to lock a flywheel to get the bolts out. The same method is capable of retightening them to specification.

[mdw]

Whilst were on the subject of the yokes is it just gearbox oil for the lube when it goes back together. I opened mine up just to check them over as everything else was coming apart.

[Sparky]

No, not oil. You should use a grease recommended for CV joints.

[mdw]

Cheers for that, I only asked re oil as that was what ran out when i undid the gater ( the one at the box end).

[internets]

You need to repack with something like this

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Comma-Constant-Velocity-Cv-Grease-500G-/290587002666?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43a855c72a

[cazna52]

And that is why this is such a great place for info, though I would highly recommend asking first next time 'cos then Sparky would have told you what he said in his post which may have made the whole job a lot easier for you.

Betcha don't stop to ask for directions when you're lost either hey?

ps. I'd have started on it without asking first as well.

Lol, you are totally right. Instead of asking first I will try first and dig a small hole, try something else and dig myself deeper, then when I am totally stuck come to the forums

I will have to start asking first, it could end up saving me a lot of trouble.

[Ginger pig]

All,

Re: jammed drift and roll pin.

Two words....... 'Spark errosion' if you want it out or alternatively leave it in situ.

When this happened to me there was no chance of getting it out even at a metal workers premises; as the angle and awkwardness stopped them making a decent job of it.

[jammy-pop]

Cazna, I'm really glad you got your roll pins/punch and everything else stuck! I found this thread most useful as I was just about to start knocking my roll pins out as I'm removing my gearbox. It was then I spotted the last couple of comments saying just leave them in and split the driveshafts at the spider.

That's exactly what I've done so no messing about with pins and skinned knuckles I also read they are also a bit of a pig to seal the pins?

Once again thanks!

Steve

[Sparky]

Good man! Honestly, I have no idea why anyone would want to do it any other way.

[Günter]

Sparky, maybe its the fear that there is no suitable tool to 're-thighten' the clip-band that's going around, or to mess up with the right amount of grease ..or to fit the joint 'inner and outer' up in the right way as originally ..so that the joint runs within the same position (aka: load is spread evenly on the alreaddy weared surfaces..) ..just a thought

[cazna52]

I am glad my experience was able to help you out.

I may not always be able to suggest the best way to do things but I have a particular knack at finding the worst way, and that is at least of some use if others can avoid the same mistakes

[dodge1979]

Ive split the pins, as stated in the workshop manual, ive had no leakage issues since...also I found it not a nightmare...although you need to ensure you knocking them out at a certain angle...i believe theyll foul on the box casting in certain places..also, if yoy do take the shafts out, replace the driveshaft seals...not a hard job, but will ensure no leakage from old seals upon refitment of the shafts...