Seals leaking.

[espritmania]

I have drained my gearbox to find it had only 1 litre in it,put 3 litres in and now find that I have gearbox oil leaking from the bellhousing,as I am still installing the engine everything is free and I can whip the box out pretty quick ,is it easy to fit an input seal or would it be better to drop it down to a specialist,cheers. 

[910Esprit]

Which model?   If its the citroen box, there is no oil seal on the input shaft,  there is a mechanical scroll that directs excess oil back into the diff housing via a tube - this can get a bit cruddy with a mixture of oil and rust particles - although I've never seen one totally blocked  (rust is 'created' where the input shaft splines into the primary shaft). Its fairly easy to dismantle to investigate, but you need to control pre-load and backlash on assembly, which is a little tricky (but doesn't actually require any particular specialist tools - dial gauge, spring balance and the correct sized shims)   

[espritmania]

Renault gearbox.

[Sparky]

Then you need to split the box to get at the seal.  I'd be most interested to see what you find!  I did one a while back:

 

http://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/59188-gotta-split-the-box/?hl=%20input%20%20shaft%20%20oil%20%20seal

Pay attention to what Vulcan says near the end - no need to remove 5th gear.  It was fun though.

[espritmania]

Probably going to get SJ,s to do it,will take it out and will drop it down.

[Shanesprit]

Renault gearbox

Hi does anyone have a how to or a PDF of the manual, that covers replacing the oil seals?

Box is already out primary shaft seal is leaking, probably a drive shaft seal too.

Went on the MLOC chatsworth run noticed a leak when we got to Hassop, really enjoyed it now time to pay for the enjoyment lol

Thanks

[TimSportsTourer]

Sorry to hear that Chatsworth killed your 'box. It was a good day, though! Mine was the silk red s4 parked a few up from you, I think. I'm glad you enjoyed it. Good luck with the seals.

[Sparky]

Sorry, no manual but check this thread:

 

http://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/59188-gotta-split-the-box/?hl=%2Binput+%2Bshaft+%2Bseal#entry466682

 

Read all the way through, as Travis points out there's a bit at the rear casing I didn't need to do.

[Shanesprit]

It should be all ok plenty of oil still in there.

Just not sure why I have to split the box?

Looks like just remove the bell housing, I will ask at lotusbits when I collect the parts.

[Sparky]

Believe me now or find out the hard way, if you want to change the seal, you need to split the box.

[Shanesprit]

I am sure you are right.

Just looking at a PDF service notes

Looks like I could end up doing a rebuild to cure a weep of oil,

I haven't rebuilt a box for a long time, and never this type.

[Vulcan Grey]

The seal is captured by the two halves.  Definitely have to split the box.  It isn't difficult.

 

 

Watch for the balls shooting out when you remove the rear housing.

 

Don't move the shafts too far when the box is apart or else the inner ball detentes and spring will shoot out.

 

Definitely check the differential preload.  Don't disturb the large castellated nut on the right hand side of the box, and if you do, then double check the differential preload via the spring scale method in the manual.

[Shanesprit]

Definitely check the differential preload. - can i do this with the shaft's still in place? 

and do i really need to by a spring balance?

[Vulcan Grey]

the spec and the procedure must be done with the axles removed and the transmission not connected to the engine.

 

 

You really should follow the manual, the torques and assembly steps are quite specific.

 

a) If the original differential bearings and crownwheel and pinion are refitted, tighten the nut (using tool

TOOOT0679/0680) to the reference mark and ensure the differential rotates freely without any bearing free

play.

 

b) If new bearings and/or crownwheel and pinion are fitted, screw in the nut until the differential is slightly

stiff to rotate. Then check the preload as follows:

- Turn the differential several times to centralise the bearings.

- Wind a piece of cord around the differential housing.

- Pull on the cord using a spring balance, and read the balance whilst the differential is turninq. The

reading should be between 35 and 40 N (8 - 9 Ibf).

- Adjust the nut as required and recheck until the reading is correct.

 

2. In both cases [(a) and (b)] match mark the nut and case.

3. Loosen the nut by one turn, separate the case halves. and remove the differential.

 

 

[espritmania]

All sorted,just had to put the pins in and silicone them,drysabone.Cheers.

[Vulcan Grey]

So not leaking from the bell housing?  Just leaking from the stub axles?

[CHANGES]

 Pull on the cord using a spring balance, and read the balance whilst the differential is turninq. The

reading should be between 35 and 40 N (8 - 9 Ibf).

- Adjust the nut as required and recheck until the reading is correct.

 

Should this not read ....between 50 and 65 N (120-155 lbf )

[espritmania]

No ,turned out that the crank seal was leaking,it was uncanny that it happened  at the same time  that i filled the gearbox.Also a big thanks Travis for that easy fix of the  leaking elbow on the MAP sensor,it was and with a new elbow it is now perfect.

[Vulcan Grey]

 

 Pull on the cord using a spring balance, and read the balance whilst the differential is turninq. The

reading should be between 35 and 40 N (8 - 9 Ibf).

- Adjust the nut as required and recheck until the reading is correct.

 

Should this not read ....between 50 and 65 N (120-155 lbf )

 

 

 

The 93-V8 Esprit shop manual, section FG, says 35-40N (8-9 lbf)

 

The Renault UN1 manual says 5-6 daN (50-60N) (11-13lbf) for new bearings, and "free without play" for used bearings...

[Shanesprit]

hi 

well should i use 40N on an 89 2.2na? 

 

i will be changing the crank rear main seal and gasket just to be sure 

 

also intend to fit a 40 way Deutsch connector between the boot floor electrics and engine compartment to make removal easier next time,