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Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation


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DIFF in for pre load checks and backlash

IMG_7314.thumb.JPG.aed99db4eb90aa40d57a75357af065a0.JPGShims on each side press on the bearings when the half shafts are bolted on. By using a spring balance and different size shims you can set the amount the bearings are loaded. The backlash is set by chaging the position of the crown wheel relative to the pinion by changing the shims but keeping e preload the same. Move it to the right in the picture and the backlash increases. It needs the restored half shafts bolted on and clamping down before the calibration can start. 

I'm hoping, as someone has done this before the shims are already correct. If they arn't there will be a big delay whilst Inwait for shims!

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being pessamistic, the fact you have swapped out the original Polish (assuming they were the originals), for a different brand, also the material of the driveshaft housing gaskets materially affect the calcs. I would be expecting to require revised shims!  Also note you have some minor chipping on the edge of the crownwheel, I had this on one of crownwheels, but dont know what causes it.

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I wonder if the shims are common to other gearboxes? I might be able too getbto my local specialist and pick some up which would save a delay, if Inrequire them. 

Yep, have to fit the gaskets and half shafts for readings.

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I just make my own shims from appropriate shim stock, simply cut with a decent pair of scissors.   As the shims sit between 2 fixed (non rotating) parts. they dont need to be cosmetically perfect!

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When I fitted new carrier bearings, I was lucky enough to arrive at the proper preload setting by deleting the paper gaskets and using anaerobic sealant on the halfshaft flanges.  Doubt that would work out again though.......

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Starting to break the back of this, manifold now cooking in the wife's oven. Quite useful for curing paint! Should finish the fuel system tank bits today.

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Fuel pump

IMG_7326.thumb.JPG.6d82a52935543936cb71461c582f1fc2.JPGThree wires. Earth one to pump. Extra wire - does this bolt to the Chasis, says C2 on diagram. What is C2? Presumably the chasis?. Middle wire to pump from solenoid. Right wire is pink, not shown on circuit diagram, what's it for?

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Mmmm. Don’t remember a capacitor being fitted. In theory then the second earth wire via the capacitor to earth. The pink wire on the right comes out at the same point no n the loom. Maybe it’s for a secondary fuel pump for a later Esprit? Only pink I can find on the circuit is the resistance wire, which should not be here? 

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51 minutes ago, Lotusfab said:

Mmmm. Don’t remember a capacitor being fitted. In theory then the second earth wire via the capacitor to earth. The pink wire on the right comes out at the same point no n the loom. Maybe it’s for a secondary fuel pump for a later Esprit? Only pink I can find on the circuit is the resistance wire, which should not be here? 

I think its a pink wire that goes to the a/c compressor. Redundant if you don't have one.

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Fuel pump

IMG_7326.thumb.JPG.6d82a52935543936cb71461c582f1fc2.JPGThree wires. Earth one to pump. Extra wire - does this bolt to the Chasis, says C2 on diagram. What is C2? Presumably the chasis?. Middle wire to pump from solenoid. Right wire is pink, not shown on circuit diagram, what's it for?

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Thanks for looking it up. It's just a pink wire, the same Colour as the resistive wire. It exits the loom on the fuel pump connection. I can't see any possible use for it. The pump only requires the other positive and negative. I have wired in the pump and used a cable tie to hold the pink wire clear, just incase I find a use for it later.

I have started to reassemble the remaining engine parts. The intake manifold fitting is not covered very well in the manual. Is any sealant required on the intake gasket? Wellseal? 

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Looking fabulous mate! Can't say with authority but I believe the inlet gasket is to be installed dry. 

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Thanks. I believe it's dry also, but as always will double check. 

I took lots of pictures but as always seem to be missing some important ones and the nuts and bolts! 

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A.  I've always used gasket cement as there are very few fasteners on the inlet manifold and water pipes also run through it.   You may 'get away' without cement, but I cant see any advantage in not using it?   (other than future cleanup & reassembly) 

B. I've dismantled a number of these and they all seem to have evidence of 'non hardening' type of cement on these gaskets (such as Wellseal).   Thats what I currently use.   The concern is that the gasket depth is material to the Diff preload, that's something I just make a judgement on during assembly.    

These are just my personal view....

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Thanks Steve. I just did a preload check and realised I forgot to fit the gaskets! So have to do it all again it was 9 Kgs with new bearings and no gaskets!  

As far as I can see the manual doesn't prescribe any sealant on the half shafts or inlet manifold. I'm inclined to use Wellseal for both. Any other views on this out there? I've tried looking for this on here and havn't found an answer??

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22 minutes ago, 910Esprit said:

A.  I've always used gasket cement as there are very few fasteners on the inlet manifold and water pipes also run through it.   You may 'get away' without cement, but I cant see any advantage in not using it?   (other than future cleanup & reassembly) 

B. I've dismantled a number of these and they all seem to have evidence of 'non hardening' type of cement on these gaskets (such as Wellseal).   Thats what I currently use.   The concern is that the gasket depth is material to the Diff preload, that's something I just make a judgement on during assembly.    

These are just my personal view....

B. Problem using method B to set the preload is the gasket with Wellseal has to be fitted. Then if the preload is OK but the backlash is off the whole thing has to come apart trashing the gaskets. Unless they are fitted dry first. 

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