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Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation


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I think I may have over engineer the lower rack - its like a solid piece of dense fiber glass. It might even survive being mounted on the fuselage of a 747! Cant wait to see waht happens when I split the mould tomorrow. I think it will need some tidy up work. Its very difficult to created this 3D fiberglass shape with slots in!

Only one left to do, thank goodness- I can't take any more fibreglassing!

Then it back to engine rebuilding!

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5 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

IMG_1246.thumb.PNG.87e873a4551cb93c7227065792caae31.PNG

Some of those double-stick foam body tapes are quite strong, I wonder if you could just bond the mount to the hatch with that, as you have a large base area to work with. Using the tape would allow later removal with fishing line, hopefully saving the hard-earned paint finish.

Alternatively, you could minimize the drilled holes as pictured with just one set of bolts through the louvre rim and the balance stuck with tape. 

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Thanks Thomas. I think this is the sort of thing you either do or don't. Im going for it and will bolt them on. If I sell and the new owner doesn't want them they will have to repair and spray the tailgate. I planing on metal brackets inside and bonded to the lower racks with four bolt holes. I think it will need this to take the load and not cause cracking. The plan is to fix closed cell foam in the gap so the ski is sandwiched in position and the paint wont get scratched.

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On 03/04/2020 at 20:23, Lotusfab said:

I think I may have over engineer the lower rack - its like a solid piece of dense fiber glass. It might even survive being mounted on the fuselage of a 747! Cant wait to see waht happens when I split the mould tomorrow. I think it will need some tidy up work. Its very difficult to created this 3D fiberglass shape with slots in!

Only one left to do, thank goodness- I can't take any more fibreglassing!

Then it back to engine rebuilding!

Well best to over engineer as it will last, looks like a bugger to make and fibreglassing is not the nicest material to work with.

Nice job and attention to detail especially with the bindings as well.

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That’s a mess - you’d think in this day and age if you’re going to bother producing a new model the standard would have to be top notch?🤔

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The number plate is ok!

Interesting fuel caps, wheel centres and thru wheel arch trim,

The good thing is they are keeping the dream alive! Mine should be rolling with skis very soon! 

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The only thing they have got right are the bonnet vent holes. Other models have the later holes as in the Dezer car which are wrong.

This white car also has the wrong bonnet. My car is also wrong :( the part under the vents should be satin black and the gauze is missing.

20200405_181517[1].jpg

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10 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

Corgi have just designed a new range of James Bond models. Judging by the ski racks they should have contacted me first!IMG_1248.thumb.PNG.86da4270420bba34b4e4e70afb533c2b.PNG

Ohhh and the wheels!

It's the same Corgi from 20 years ago. Picture here of the Directors cut version. They haven't changed it, just a re-release if they are selling them new again.

MiWWdN.jpg

The Ski's do have OLIN MARK VI markings on them. Some versions of this Directors cut model from the 2000's have two black sets of skis, some with one red set like this one.

 

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9 hours ago, Andyww said:

The only thing they have got right are the bonnet vent holes. Other models have the later holes as in the Dezer car which are wrong.

This white car also has the wrong bonnet. My car is also wrong :( the part under the vents should be satin black and the gauze is missing.

20200405_181517[1].jpg

Easy Fixed Andy!

 

I need to find a damaged Essex 1/18 Autoart and take the silver/black wheels off it.

It always annoyed me the white Autoart had gold wheels like the Copper Fire car. Good thing they got the interior spot on though.

 

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29 minutes ago, LOTUSMAN33 said:

Good job Fabian, some fettling, prep then paint!

Now crack on with that engine and get her back on the road. 👍🏻👍🏻

Dave :) 

Thanks Dave, yep engine next.

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Engine rebuild

IMG_1252.thumb.PNG.407839f7a53032381e71d3492baca03b.PNGIs this info of date? The new seals seem to fit flush on both sides? 2.5 mm would mean the front if the seal sticks out??

I've cleaned all,the fiberglass away and am now reviewing the manual for the rebuild. I'm double checking everything on this build.

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I replaced my front seal a couple of months ago. Pressed the new one in to the desired 2.5mm gap. As a consequence it does protrude a little at the front as you can see in the picture below. Make sure you get it in absolutely square. That’s crucial. It took me a few attempts with a DIY press tool. No leaks so far. 

3FD0189C-E656-4D15-B4D6-C4C399F0F844.jpeg

Ad initium

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1 hour ago, Gis said:

I replaced my front seal a couple of months ago. Pressed the new one in to the desired 2.5mm gap. As a consequence it does protrude a little at the front as you can see in the picture below. Make sure you get it in absolutely square. That’s crucial. It took me a few attempts with a DIY press tool. No leaks so far. 

3FD0189C-E656-4D15-B4D6-C4C399F0F844.jpeg

Have you got the spray sheild fitted behind? I reckon they have modified the seal and its wider than the oringal. Just wanted some confirmation. The only reason I can think of for 2.5 mm is if the clearance is need for the spray sheild. My engine has never had the spray sheild fitted. A builder I know throws them away on each rebuild.

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