Removing a rear lower link stud :(

[Smithy111]

Ok, so i'm now into doing the rear springs/shocks and bushes however, i cannot get the o/s lower link stud out of the hub carrier. It seems to have sized in  Odd thing is that the n/s stud came strait out no problems (guess someone at the factory forgot to grease this one!) Any tips on removal? I've emptied a can of penetrating oil onto it and am going to try again tomorrow after its soaked for a while.

Been following the guide on LEW - http://www.lotusespritworld.com/EGuides/EMaintenance/HubCarriers.html and appears i'm having this exact problem. I've been very careful as i don't want to damage anything and am going to try winding a nut on tomorrow using a torque wrench as suggested with a max limit of 120nm. if that don't work ill re bushe the rest and fit the new springs and shocks and leave that as is and take it to my local lotus engineer as if i bugger it ill be stuck with a non driving car!

[silverfrost]

The best way is to cut all the stud flush with the alloy casting on the outside on each end,  with the stud and lower arm that  is left in the middle, cut down the sides of the bush through the rubber and through the stud.  

Then you will be left with just the remains of the steel stud left on the inside of the alloy casting,  you can then try to press these out using a ball joint splitting type tool,  Sparky on here has had good results with this method as many others have also,  but sometimes the reaction of the alloy and steel  will sometimes of progressed far to much causing it to be impossible to press out otherwise the alloy would split due to to much force. 

if the above fails to work, do everything above, but instead of pressing the remains out, use a drill/bench drill.  start with a small hole and progress in drill bit sizes until you are near the edge  of the alloy with little steel remaing, then strip a junior hacksaw, insert the blade and reconnect it, and saw until you go through to the alloy, then just peel out with a large screwdriver, or tap out carefully with a punch/steel chisel etc.

Good luck, also while you are at it, maybe change the wheel bearing while the unit is out, also upon reassebly, remember plenty of copper slip on the stud to prevent future corrosion.

 

 

[Barrykearley]

Threaded bar, a selection of snubber washers, big nuts and sockets. You can wind these out no problem. 

Go at it slow and steady - but it should slip out. Do not under an circumstances use a hammer

[Smithy111]

Well I tried with a spacer and a nut on the end of the stud up to 120nm and it didn’t do a thing so I’m leaving it as is before I damage it and I’ll have to take it somewhere later. I can’t belive how easy one side came out and one side won’t budge.

[Barrykearley]

I’m sure I still have the bruises on the palms of my hands from the spanner’s !!

[Smithy111]

How exactly did you get it out Barry? Ive taken the spacer from the top link inboard end and slid it over the stud and wound a nut on to the specified 120nm max torque to no avail, is that how you did it? i don't fancy cutting through the spacer and stud as there's no guarantee ill be able to get it out in two bits either although technically it should reduce the load required to shift it?

[Steve V8]

Just had the same problem on mine Chris, well and truly seized solid. Not a job I'd recommend trying to do on the car, but not too bad with the hub carrier on the bench. It'll most likely be the split spacer fused to the stud and carrier.

Take Dans advice and cut the stud, you may need to cut both sides of the lower link if the stud has also fused to the bush (mine was). You can then use a few gentle heat cycles and a good soaking in penetrating oil to help remove the rear portion of the stud using spacers and nuts on the thread. The front portion of the stud will probably need drilling out, cut off as much of the stud as you can, then straight through with a 10mm bit, it don't matter if you drill a bit squiffy, you have the split spacer for leeway, carefully cut slots in what remains if the stud and spacer, collapse it and gently tap it out.

This certainly isn't a job I'd trust a garage to carry out. It requires care and thought. If they take the time it needs to be done properly it'll cost you plenty.

[ekwan]

Sometimes its worth the price of paying a machine shop with the correct tools i.e. pillar drill and hydraulic press to do a proper job of drilling/pressing the stud out.

[Barrykearley]

11 hours ago, Smithy111 said:

How exactly did you get it out Barry? Ive taken the spacer from the top link inboard end and slid it over the stud and wound a nut on to the specified 120nm max torque to no avail, is that how you did it? i don't fancy cutting through the spacer and stud as there's no guarantee ill be able to get it out in two bits either although technically it should reduce the load required to shift it?

Simply used a snubber washer - some threaded bar and an assortment of nuts and sockets to spacer it out and allow it to be pulled out and through the hub. 

It was difficult - but really only took about 15-20mins of swearing per side

[Vanya]

What's the easiest way of getting the hub carrier off the car without removing the drive shaft - I currently have driveshafts that aren't leaking oil and would like to leave them undisturbed at the gearbox end...

Really looking forward to this job tbh. But mine too are seized so I believe some quality time with the drill is in order. 

[Sparky]

Separate the shaft from the joint.  Undo the gaiter, mark rotational position, and pull it out! No roll pins or seals to worry about.

[Barrykearley]

And a good wash and nice new grease 👍

[andydclements]

14 minutes ago, Sparky said:

Separate the shaft from the joint.  Undo the gaiter, mark rotational position, and pull it out! No roll pins or seals to worry about.

For clarity (for anybody reading the above out of context of Vanya's question), Sparky's reply relates to the Renault box which Vanya has in the SE. It doesn't apply to the Citroen box used on the S3 which the original post relates to.

[Sparky]

Ah yes, sorry! Thanks Andy.

[Steve V8]

Would it not be easier just to undo the hub nut and pull the carrier off the splines leaving the drive shaft in situ?

[Sparky]

Not necessarily.  I've had a couple that wouldn't come out without extreme violence. You'll never fail to separate the joint and, frankly, it's quicker.

[Vanya]

Cheers for the advice lads. Really looking forward to getting this done. Sorry to hijack a g car thread

[Steve V8]

OK, mine slipped out really easily, just about the only thing that wasn't stuck solid...and yes, I'm referring to the drive shaft before this topic goes in the usual direction 

[TAR]

I had to cut, drill and hacksaw one of the studs on my rear hubs as it was stuck fast. I had already tried lubrication, heat and attempting to wind it out, all without success. Oddly, the other side wasn't stuck at all and almost fell out.

Take your time and use a good quality drill bit.