Analytics Made Easy - Statcounter
agentdr8 - TLF - Totally Lotus Jump to content


Full Forum Member (FFM)
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


agentdr8 last won the day on September 8 2018

agentdr8 had the most liked content!

About agentdr8

  • Birthday 01/01/1977

More Info

  • Name
  • Car
    2011 Evora 2+2
  • Modifications
    Difflow, Larini, BOE CAI, Kenwood DMX905S
  • Location
    NorCal, CA

Recent Profile Visitors

2,781 profile views

agentdr8's Achievements


Enthusiast (6/14)

  • Reacting Well
  • Very Popular Rare
  • Dedicated
  • First Post
  • Collaborator

Recent Badges




Community Answers

  1. Yes, the 400s will fit just fine. But they do have different internal valving, and the 400s came with different rated springs IIRC. Shouldn't make a huge diff if you're reusing the NA springs, but something to be aware of.
  2. Bleed nipples are pretty standard as long as the threads fit, so they could come from many sources. If that's the only issue w/ the calipers, then there's probably no need to replace any other components.
  3. The ball joints are part of the wishbones, and not a separate orderable part, so it could be argued it's included if there's fault in the wishbones.
  4. You'll probably save a bit getting it from Amazon (or locally). The Lotus stuff doesn't stick well over time, and ends up pulling off one side or the other. Something like this. The rear seat patches are roughly 4" wide and probably 6-8" long.
  5. I went with Auxito, but they're similar to many you can find on Amazon and the like. EDIT: They appear to be on sale on Amazon's US site. Not sure if they're available in other regions.
  6. I'm a fan of the Osram Xenarcs too, but have since moved to some active cooled LEDs. The light pattern is slightly different from the xenon bulbs, but I feel the increase in brightness is worth it.
  7. The cars are fairly low to the ground, so the aiming becomes a bit more critical to avoid aiming them too high and blinding oncoming traffic, and too low where you can't see far enough in front. There are service notes regarding the aiming process and measurements, but they assume stock ride height, so would need to be adjusted if suspension is modified.
  8. There are only 2 door shell part #s (per side); Federal and ROW, and they all have holes for the speaker. But door cards are different, so you'd probably need to either replace, or cut holes. Wiring likely is already present, just not connected to anything. But if not, running wires for speakers and amp aren't terrible difficult if you've done car audio before. It would be much easier than replacing the harnesses.
  9. That's what the service notes indicate: I'm unaware of anyone else that sells the Wilwood kit. But if you need it quickly, you can definitely call Greg and work out expedited shipping. EDIT: Apparently MWR also sells the Wilwood.
  10. I have nothing but good things to say about the Wilwood. No change in feel, just make sure the firewall-to-clevis hole distance matches up on both of them, prior to install. That way you won't have issues with the clutch position sensor throwing errors.
  11. All the reported ones with failures beg to differ 😅. Clutch hydraulics in general typically aren't, but when a mfg choose a less-than-ideal part, I call it what is.
  12. All manual Evoras will require a MC change at some point, as it's a normal wear item (especially the OEM part). It's just a matter of do you wait for it to completely fail and leave you stranded somewhere (or worse), or do you address it while the vehicle is still driveable. I drove mine for a month or so after the pedal initially went soft (manually lifting and pumping seemed to bring it back to life), and had one recurrence which almost led to an accident, so I figured it was time.
  13. Either the Wilwood or the Tilton units are quality. GRP sells the Wilwood, which is the one I went with, but others like BOE sell the Tilton.
  14. If you're going to have the MC replaced, I would highly advise against going with the OEM part, as even though it's been updated over the years, it still doesn't seem to last nearly as long as the aftermarket ones. Plus the aftermarket ones can be rebuilt from the pedal side if you ever need to replace the seals. Doing it yourself isn't terribly difficult (I did mine solo, aside from a helping hand to lift and move the front clam somewhere safe), but it does take a few hours. Some shops have been known to replace it without removing the front clam, by using a very small opening in the LHS wheel well. But a soft pedal that returns to normal after manual lifting and pumping is usually a symptom of bad fluid, a bad MC, or both. Most usually start with a full flush/bleed, but if it returns, it's likely the MC seals have disintegrated and needs replacing (along with another flush and bleed).
  15. @SJP68 - My bad; I must have been thinking of a different vehicle of mine. It's been a number of years since I changed out the mudflap brackets. I went out and took a picture of the bottom of my A-panel, and it looks like this: The 2 rivets at the front have to be drilled out, but the 2 bolts and washers are what hold the A-panel to the sill, and like @sellman indicated, the rivnuts are embedded in the sill. You don't technically need to remove the A-panel to replace the bracket, but it's probably easier to do off the car.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to enhance your browsing experience, serve personalized ads or content, and analyze our traffic. By clicking " I Accept ", you consent to our use of cookies. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.