agentdr8

You'll probably save a bit getting it from Amazon (or locally). The Lotus stuff doesn't stick well over time, and ends up pulling off one side or the other. Something like this. The rear seat patches are roughly 4" wide and probably 6-8" long.

I went with Auxito, but they're similar to many you can find on Amazon and the like. EDIT: They appear to be on sale on Amazon's US site. Not sure if they're available in other regions.

I'm a fan of the Osram Xenarcs too, but have since moved to some active cooled LEDs. The light pattern is slightly different from the xenon bulbs, but I feel the increase in brightness is worth it.

The cars are fairly low to the ground, so the aiming becomes a bit more critical to avoid aiming them too high and blinding oncoming traffic, and too low where you can't see far enough in front. There are service notes regarding the aiming process and measurements, but they assume stock ride height, so would need to be adjusted if suspension is modified.

There are only 2 door shell part #s (per side); Federal and ROW, and they all have holes for the speaker. But door cards are different, so you'd probably need to either replace, or cut holes. Wiring likely is already present, just not connected to anything. But if not, running wires for speakers and amp aren't terrible difficult if you've done car audio before. It would be much easier than replacing the harnesses.

That's what the service notes indicate: I'm unaware of anyone else that sells the Wilwood kit. But if you need it quickly, you can definitely call Greg and work out expedited shipping. EDIT: Apparently MWR also sells the Wilwood.

I have nothing but good things to say about the Wilwood. No change in feel, just make sure the firewall-to-clevis hole distance matches up on both of them, prior to install. That way you won't have issues with the clutch position sensor throwing errors.

All the reported ones with failures beg to differ 😅. Clutch hydraulics in general typically aren't, but when a mfg choose a less-than-ideal part, I call it what is.

All manual Evoras will require a MC change at some point, as it's a normal wear item (especially the OEM part). It's just a matter of do you wait for it to completely fail and leave you stranded somewhere (or worse), or do you address it while the vehicle is still driveable. I drove mine for a month or so after the pedal initially went soft (manually lifting and pumping seemed to bring it back to life), and had one recurrence which almost led to an accident, so I figured it was time.

Either the Wilwood or the Tilton units are quality. GRP sells the Wilwood, which is the one I went with, but others like BOE sell the Tilton.

If you're going to have the MC replaced, I would highly advise against going with the OEM part, as even though it's been updated over the years, it still doesn't seem to last nearly as long as the aftermarket ones. Plus the aftermarket ones can be rebuilt from the pedal side if you ever need to replace the seals. Doing it yourself isn't terribly difficult (I did mine solo, aside from a helping hand to lift and move the front clam somewhere safe), but it does take a few hours. Some shops have been known to replace it without removing the front clam, by using a very small opening in the LHS wheel well. But a soft pedal that returns to normal after manual lifting and pumping is usually a symptom of bad fluid, a bad MC, or both. Most usually start with a full flush/bleed, but if it returns, it's likely the MC seals have disintegrated and needs replacing (along with another flush and bleed).

@SJP68 - My bad; I must have been thinking of a different vehicle of mine. It's been a number of years since I changed out the mudflap brackets. I went out and took a picture of the bottom of my A-panel, and it looks like this: The 2 rivets at the front have to be drilled out, but the 2 bolts and washers are what hold the A-panel to the sill, and like @sellman indicated, the rivnuts are embedded in the sill. You don't technically need to remove the A-panel to replace the bracket, but it's probably easier to do off the car.

There are no screws that hold from the underside; those are plastic body clips (the center pin can unscrew or be pried out, and once removed, you can pull the outer body out). If you can't manage to safely extract them, you can just sheer them off and replace them.

Probably OEM ones at that price. The aftermarket ones, of which I'm only aware of 2 vendors that make them, are much more than that for a pair.

RRR Engineering - But they're not posted on their site still (has been about ~3 (?) years since they were announced). I reached out to Gregor Pekala (greg_at_rrrengineering_co_uk) directly and asked if they had any to sell, and he was able to ship me a pre-production set. Last I heard, they were nearing production on them.

As a comparison point, the RRRs are adjustable (even if you leave it at stock camber), and the design allows for easy replacement of all bushes. Plus there's no casting seam since they're machined, so a chance of crack reoccurrence is low. Price-wise, I think they're highly competitive compared to OEM, and at this point, might be easier to obtain. @Gareth44Good catch by your mech, and glad it was before the cracks allowed the bushing to move. If the bushing slides forward, it allows for contact between the outer CV gaiter and the lower spring perch, which can tear a hole. Wouldn't be a big problem if the gaiters were available from Lotus, but they haven't been for the past ~2 years unless you buy a complete driveshaft assembly.

They're part of Staingard now: Gliptone Car Care - Staingard

The backlighting is built directly into the top sticker on the HVAC panel:

Yes, they should be backlit. They're part of the dash dimmer circuit, so check that you have your brightness turned up. If you still can't see the backlighting, then you have to replace the HVAC control panel, as the lighting isn't provided by bulbs or replaceable LEDs.

I can send you a BOM with links to the components. It's relatively easy to put everything together if you're handy with a soldering iron.

Unfortunately I no longer have any components for these kits.

The power steering pump does not have its own belt; it uses the serpentine belt that goes around all the accessories, supercharger pulleys, and crankshaft pulley. OEM part # is B132E6500H, or you can use a Gates K071130

I haven't seen any aftermarket lowers, just uppers. If the play is from worn bushings, they should be individually replaceable.

In order to remove the filler bowl, the flap has to be opened (so you can unscrew the filler cap). If the solenoid is bad, there's a small hole on the side of the bowl where you can manually press in the pawl that holds the flap down.

I believe it's behind the enclosure, in the RHS rear wheel arch/sill area to block off that area to leaves/rodents/road noise/etc.