Spanky3

Let's see if this link works, it should be all the blue Evora bits. The description on each item has the cars details on it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_dkr=1&iconV2Request=true&_blrs=recall_filtering&_ssn=silverlake-automotive-recycling&store_name=silverlakeautomotiverecycling&_oac=1&_nkw=evora

The remains of a blue 2014 Evora S SR are on eBay - an untimely end especially at 32k miles. Anyone know what happened to it?

Where are the RRR wishbones available from? Sorry if that's a silly question but Google has failed me.

Slightly delayed response but all sorted, thanks all for advice and ideas. As 21gg said, once the arch liner is out the oil cooler unbolts to one side and ducting can be removed for access. The bottle is held in with four 8mm bolts, two of which are accessed through the front bumper inlet once the ducting is removed. A uj or wobble bar helps. I think the issue was the non return valve which I replaced with a 5mm straight connector. Before I found it I snapped the pump outlet trying to wiggle the hose off so replaced the pump as well. It's from an MGF/MGTF. All good now and squirting like never before. While I was there I also found a weep from the IPS oil cooler. For once the eBay gods have smiled on me and I have just fitted a brand new cooler for 90 quid delivered instead of 700.

Thanks both for the tips. Everything I've read so far was for early NAs without the cooler and the pumps on the outside of the tank. I'll have a go at moving the cooler first and report back. I'm hoping it's just a blocked non-return valve etc as the pump works but with a very low flow rate.

My screenwash pump is barely pumping so I need to clean or replace it. Has anyone worked out how to access it on a post-MY12 Evora S? I'm assuming the nearside oil cooler will block access through the arch and I don't fancy taking the bumper off...

At least I think it is. It could be a Tesla or a Proton or anything really

My Evora S was with direct line for £400 last year. They haven't even quoted to renew, best so far is Classicline at £675 for 1500 miles but with a £500 excess. What other specialists are worth checking with?

I'm also interested in @Bravo73 comments about Silverstone. My C service was done by them last year and afaik all good, though they did leave the nearside tailgate prop bracket loose which I guess was removed to get to the airbox.

Another one coming back from le mans.

Another one at the LM classic. early S1 Evora with 400 front bumper. Parked conveniently close to the new footbridge into karting.

No longer needed, I gave in and made my own. If importing from Europe ever gets made easier I'll buy a proper one.

If it's jerking or juddering when you turn at low speeds then it's normal and results from the anti Ackerman steering which causes one tyre to skip over the ground. If it's happening at high speed then it could be a few different things.

Thanks to Brexit these are hard to import now. If you have a RHD Evora phone bracket kicking about let me know. Here's what I'm after: https://www.elise-shop.com/evora-telephone-bracket-evora-evora-s-p-502881.html

I'd read plenty of posts but none of them had a single fob completelly stopping working even after a battery change. Anyway, i was all set to reprogramme both keys using instructions from lotustalk but the key fob has started working again. My best guess is a battery contact issue. If it happens again I'll try cleaning the battery contacts. As a precaution I've memorised the emergency pin though.

Evening all, One of my two keys has stopped working - no response when I push any button. I've tried a new battery but still nothinga. Are there any fixable known issues or do I need a new key?

I have the same in my S1 Sport Racer. Grey everywhere except the pillars which have faded to blue. Lotus used SuedeTex rather than Alcantara, I think both can be dyed and there are plenty of places that will mix dye to match but you'd probably need to obtain a scrap of it to them.

I have a manual caterham and an IPS Evora, bought with head rather than heart. Clutch was one factor, road tax is the other. Road tax for the manual is almost £700 a year now! The IPS just squeezes into the lower bracket and is 395. Despite my original reasons for buying it I love it. Regular Drive mode is sedate but in Sport it comes alive. 400 cars have a faster shift when using the paddles but I don't ever find it slow. Most magazine reviews were for early autos which had suspect software. Any car now will have been updated. My only real gripe is that it creeps too quickly with feet off the pedals in traffic but using the brake fixes that.

Great choice, I started out wanting a yellow one but changed my mind as soon as I saw a Carbon Grey SR.

The paddles are just a simple switch on a two pin plug with a couple of resistors between the terminals, possibly to check the switch is present. Holding both paddles together engages neutral, so if one switch sticks on, the other will appear unresponsive. When they fail try holding one on for 10 seconds and then the other and if you get neutral you know that's the issue. If not, then I'd suspect a onnection issue with the steering wheel or weird software or ECU problem Given the resistors must be there for something I'd expect the car to know if it couldn't see the paddles though

S1 Evora near didcot just off the A39 on Sunday afternoon. Black, gold wheels. Didn't look over else I'd have given a thumbs up.

My knobs intermittently fail to illuminate. On the days they work they stay working until I turn the lights off, so I don't think it's a loose connection. I've tried different sequences of lights on and ignition on to see if there's some special lotus magic going on but not found a solution yet.

Last couple of years I've been with Classicline for just over 500 with guaranteed value, but as it's a specialist policy you don't earn NCB. This year I nearly fell off my chair when direct line quoted 390. Late 40s plus mid 40s wife, 2013 S in Herts, no commuting.

When Silverstone replaced one of mine they just chopped off the old repeater and presumably joined the new one using a wago or automotive equivalent. If it was me I'd have found and used the plug but guess they've found a quicker approach.