ADF

@Bibs Copper nails have there uses, not suggesting anything just saying.

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Unfortunately it's already over £250. I assume the hedge cutter comes with the car to assist in the body repairs, or maybe someone's already started. As for the recipe, it is a FULL recipe given. I can't stand part recipes.

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Signed

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I like your enthusiasm, I don't wish to seem negative and its your car. But I could see a few issues with that approach. 1. Setting them firmly enough may require bonding, as you can't tighten them up much into the ally. 2. Wouldn't be able to slide the panel into place. Maybe not an issue. 3. Main reason for me is anything sticking out the bottom of the chassis is going to get really hammered (I managed to loose the entire leading edge of a sill from a shed load of flints) I use button head SS (A2) on mine with a spring washer, makes for a low profile and neat finish. The only issue is the danger of rounding off the Allen if there overtightened.

I would steer clear of aluminium bolts for this use myself. I use a couple of gold anodised fairing bolts on the rear number plate and they are really soft compared to steel. The added benefit of the wax oil (dinitrol) is it acts as a bit of a mild thread locker when it sets and dissolves easily in white spirit. I don't use a lot, just abit in the threads. As I understand it you need an electrolyte for the galvanic corrosion process. So my thinking is use SS but isolate with plastic washer under the SS washer and use something to block any moisture getting to the joint. I believe zinc acts a sacrificial barrier so I suppose you could use SS fixings with steel BZP washers but would need changing as the plating reduces. A bit of topic, but whenever I have an undertray off I give it spray of polish/wax (I use Williams stuff for this) it seals the surface a bit and cuts down the moisture and dirt with the additional benefit of making the underneath shiny. Keep us updated, I would be interested to know what you settle on.

Since rebuilding my S1 and making it nice I SORN over winter and it lives In a garage so its less exposed but galvanic corrosion is a major issue with the aluminium chassis mine had some serious issues, rusty fixings seem to have the greatest effect (probably because it holds moisture) One thing I did change on the front undertray was to junk the spire fixings on the sides and replaced with a strip of stainless with rivnuts set in, saves a lot of fafing about with the front one as well as providing better support. I use stainless fixings on my undertray with plastic washers under the SS washer very cheap and just replace them when they crack. I use either grease or a touch of wax oil to keep the moisture out. Don't use stainless for any load bearing bolts but there fine clamping any plastic bits. The Aluminium chassis is anodised which does help reduce corrosion, but its easily damaged. Note the rivnuts are aluminium, I've had to replace a few. My advice is use the serated ones and a little epoxy on the outside the slow/strong stuff this then bonds and seals the joint, never had one come loose again. Not sure graphite is a good idea, same for copper grease I never use either near the chassis just in case (don't know wether you can get galvanic corrosion from metal loaded greases as you need to have an electrolyte in contact, any tribologists out there?) Best of luck, I remember also having to cut my front undertray off with a grinder and same with the wheel arch liners none of it was fun but well worth doing.

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I couldn't recommend a specific head unit as I dont keep up with what's currently available but this is what I did. The Elise S1 isn't suited to good hifi no matter what you do. I do like to have tunes at times so I have fiddled with mine a bit. I improved the speaker sound slightly by properly mounting the speaker boxes so they didn't rattle and using a bit of dynamat inside and sticky back foam. Sounded better to my ears when not running but not sure it makes much difference overall as there's so much ambient noise. The best change I made was to ditch the CD player as there's no space to store CDs. I just bought a cheap (£40 ish) mechless unit with my music stored onto an SD card (CDs ripped to mp3) I just change it around every now and then. My music collection is all on my laptop now as Mp3s so this suits me but if you have it on a phone it perhaps makes more sense to just connect that. I also added a separate power switch (using an old HRW switch from a pug 306). This setup makes it a lot easier and safer to use especially at night, if I want tunes I just click the button in the panel by the lights and it just starts up and plays from where it last stopped. I can even turn the display of for night driving. The mechless units really suit the elise as they are so much lighter and shorter than the CD players.

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