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ADF

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Everything posted by ADF

  1. ADF

    TLFlowers

    @Bibs Copper nails have there uses, not suggesting anything just saying.
  2. ADF

    Wordle

    Wordle 982 4/6 ⬜⬜⬜🟩⬜ ⬜⬜⬜🟩🟩 🟨🟨⬜🟩🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
  3. Unfortunately it's already over £250. I assume the hedge cutter comes with the car to assist in the body repairs, or maybe someone's already started. As for the recipe, it is a FULL recipe given. I can't stand part recipes.
  4. ADF

    Wordle

    Wordle 980 X/6 ⬜⬜🟨🟩⬜ ⬜🟩⬜🟩🟩 ⬜🟩⬜🟩🟩 ⬜🟩⬜🟩🟩 ⬜🟩⬜🟩🟩 ⬜🟩🟩🟩🟩 How annoying !!!
  5. ADF

    Wordle

    Wordle 970 3/6 🟨⬜⬜⬜⬜ ⬜⬜🟨🟨⬜ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
  6. ADF

    Wordle

    Wordle 969 3/6 🟨⬜⬜⬜⬜ ⬜🟨🟩⬜⬜ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
  7. I like your enthusiasm, I don't wish to seem negative and its your car. But I could see a few issues with that approach. 1. Setting them firmly enough may require bonding, as you can't tighten them up much into the ally. 2. Wouldn't be able to slide the panel into place. Maybe not an issue. 3. Main reason for me is anything sticking out the bottom of the chassis is going to get really hammered (I managed to loose the entire leading edge of a sill from a shed load of flints) I use button head SS (A2) on mine with a spring washer, makes for a low profile and neat finish. The only issue is the danger of rounding off the Allen if there overtightened.
  8. I would steer clear of aluminium bolts for this use myself. I use a couple of gold anodised fairing bolts on the rear number plate and they are really soft compared to steel. The added benefit of the wax oil (dinitrol) is it acts as a bit of a mild thread locker when it sets and dissolves easily in white spirit. I don't use a lot, just abit in the threads. As I understand it you need an electrolyte for the galvanic corrosion process. So my thinking is use SS but isolate with plastic washer under the SS washer and use something to block any moisture getting to the joint. I believe zinc acts a sacrificial barrier so I suppose you could use SS fixings with steel BZP washers but would need changing as the plating reduces. A bit of topic, but whenever I have an undertray off I give it spray of polish/wax (I use Williams stuff for this) it seals the surface a bit and cuts down the moisture and dirt with the additional benefit of making the underneath shiny. Keep us updated, I would be interested to know what you settle on.
  9. Since rebuilding my S1 and making it nice I SORN over winter and it lives In a garage so its less exposed but galvanic corrosion is a major issue with the aluminium chassis mine had some serious issues, rusty fixings seem to have the greatest effect (probably because it holds moisture) One thing I did change on the front undertray was to junk the spire fixings on the sides and replaced with a strip of stainless with rivnuts set in, saves a lot of fafing about with the front one as well as providing better support. I use stainless fixings on my undertray with plastic washers under the SS washer very cheap and just replace them when they crack. I use either grease or a touch of wax oil to keep the moisture out. Don't use stainless for any load bearing bolts but there fine clamping any plastic bits. The Aluminium chassis is anodised which does help reduce corrosion, but its easily damaged. Note the rivnuts are aluminium, I've had to replace a few. My advice is use the serated ones and a little epoxy on the outside the slow/strong stuff this then bonds and seals the joint, never had one come loose again. Not sure graphite is a good idea, same for copper grease I never use either near the chassis just in case (don't know wether you can get galvanic corrosion from metal loaded greases as you need to have an electrolyte in contact, any tribologists out there?) Best of luck, I remember also having to cut my front undertray off with a grinder and same with the wheel arch liners none of it was fun but well worth doing.
  10. ADF

    Wordle

    Wordle 928 3/6 ⬜⬜🟩⬜⬜ ⬜🟨🟩⬜🟨 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
  11. I couldn't recommend a specific head unit as I dont keep up with what's currently available but this is what I did. The Elise S1 isn't suited to good hifi no matter what you do. I do like to have tunes at times so I have fiddled with mine a bit. I improved the speaker sound slightly by properly mounting the speaker boxes so they didn't rattle and using a bit of dynamat inside and sticky back foam. Sounded better to my ears when not running but not sure it makes much difference overall as there's so much ambient noise. The best change I made was to ditch the CD player as there's no space to store CDs. I just bought a cheap (£40 ish) mechless unit with my music stored onto an SD card (CDs ripped to mp3) I just change it around every now and then. My music collection is all on my laptop now as Mp3s so this suits me but if you have it on a phone it perhaps makes more sense to just connect that. I also added a separate power switch (using an old HRW switch from a pug 306). This setup makes it a lot easier and safer to use especially at night, if I want tunes I just click the button in the panel by the lights and it just starts up and plays from where it last stopped. I can even turn the display of for night driving. The mechless units really suit the elise as they are so much lighter and shorter than the CD players.
  12. ADF

    Wordle

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  13. ADF

    Wordle

    Wordle 923 3/6 ⬜🟨🟩⬜⬜ 🟨⬜🟩⬜⬜ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
  14. ADF

    Wordle

    Wordle 921 2/6 🟨🟨🟩⬜⬜ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
  15. Wishing all you hants Lotus chaps a Very Merry Xmas and a happy new year. 🍻
  16. Hi @chabli getting an elise is one of the best decisions I ever made, I'm sure you won't regret it. (Even with everything I've spent I've still probably doubled my investment) 100k shouldn't necessarily be a problem in itself, especially if many are smooth road/motorway miles. However, with any old car it's really down to condition. I got my s1 at about 47k and it was a project/dog with many issues. It should obviously sound OK and drive well but the most important thing IMHO is the condition of the chassis (apart from damage to the underneath) the area of most concern and needs checking is at the front were the top wishbone front bush mounts. This is very thin and can corrode around the bobbins. If you turn the steering you can have a good look with a torch to see if its clean, if not give a little clean to check the surface for corrosion. (rusty bobbins are also not good). These are very simple cars with little to go wrong. Salted roads are really unfriendly to the aluminium and some Elises are tucked away in heated garages whilst others can be daily drivers so the condition of them can vary immensely. Best of luck
  17. You only need to do it again and she's been to the moon !!! Curiously, October 1997 is about a month before my elise was born (probably being built when you bought yours)
  18. I am sure it's of very little interest to others but my misfire seems all fixed. I ordered a new set of leads after the pub. Turned up yesterday, all fitted and she purrs like a kitten once more (no idea where the bits of plastic off the cracked old ones have gone). Just some buggered rivnuts and clips to deal with and she'll be back on the road again after more than a month, hopefully. I ordered some nice weather, should be arriving soon. Enjoy it while you can. 😎
  19. Good to see a few of you last night, good little pub. Hope all got home safely. Google Satisfied my curiosity about the sticker on the side of Jim Clarks car Border Reivers Racing team
  20. Hi all, Cautionary tale https://www.dailyecho.co.uk/news/23725178.lotus-elise-driver-clocked-110mph-dual-carriageway/ Thought it might be @Kevin Wheeler when I saw the headline. Hopefully see a few of you on the tuesday.
  21. How did you know what I had planned?
  22. Just heard, Nitron have finally completed my shock rebuild. Great Birthday present. Excited to get the elise off the wooden blocks and back on the road after a long wait, and with a load of stuff fixed can't wait to see what she's like.
  23. The whole thing, lifting body design. I think might have been used for development of space shuttle aero.
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