fjmuurling

Same here for the Permabond A136, it does not add "thickness".

G (Geber) - connection to the pressure gauge. WK (Warnkontakt) - connection for the pressure switch the housing is the common ground connection for the unit, so don't use teflon tape when fitting.

In Ian's picture the black thing on the left is the oil temperature sensor. The middle is the oilfeed hose to the turbo. The semi gold coloured thing on the right is the oilpressure sender with the lowpressure switch.

Just a pic of the oil? No pics of the gearbox internals? 😱😮

Remember that the MAP calculations in Freescan are not correct. Freescan uses the following conversion for calculating/displaying the MAP pressure in bar: MAP (bar) = (MAPADC - 130)/100 + 1 The right conversion is: MAP (kPa) = (MAPADC / 255 + 0.04) / 0.005 1 bar = 100 kPa MAPADC = MAP sensor AD counts

Looks like an EPROM to me, so don't remove the sticker unless you want to corrupt / erase the data contained in the chip. The only way to tell what version it is is to hook up ESPRITMON / Freescan en read the PROM ID. If it is an unknown ID than the whole content needs to be "dumped". ESPRITMON can do that as well as a suitable Programmer. The dumped contents than needs to be reviewed / analysed. (time consuming job).

Like Filip said Calculator set to degrees.

It was not me, I found it a long time ago on TLF. Will look next week when I'm home if I have more.

If you keep the toe in angle (in deg) the same and increase the wheel (rim) size the measurement in mm will be greater. SIN (0.3609°) * 17 * 25.4 = 2.7mm. etc.

For starters (it is not completely the same.) for making your own heater panel. Turbo Esprit Heater Panel.pdf

The first number is the value with the second and third one indicating the tolerances. For example: Camber: -.2°; +0, -0.5° means that the Camber angle should be between -.2° + 0 = -.2° and -.2° -0.5° = 0.7°. The same applies for the Castor. As for the Toe in: The indicated value is for the original 15" front wheels. The Toe in (2nd column) numbers are: 0.6mm each side, + 1.8 mm, -0mm. So the Toe in for each side should be between 0.6 + 1.8 = 2.4mm and 0.6 - 0 = 0.6mm. A little bit of math: ARCSIN (2.4 / (15 * 25.4)) = 0.3609° = 0° 22'. ARCSIN (0.6 / (15 * 25.4)) = 0.0902° = 0° 5.4'. The values in the manual are for the original sized wheels, as you are running bigger wheels the values are probably not right. Ask Travis @Vulcan Grey what his settings are as he is also running bigger wheels on his SE.

The 1.2 +/- 0.15 bar marking is the switchpoint value of the pressure switch.

Hi Jim, @Jphoenix13 Which Five-O Injectors did you fit? (the "older" brown top or the newer 380cc ones)

Thanks for the info Chris, did you fit RC Engineering Injectors? , and if so can you share your experiences etc with them?

Some of the Bosch ones have double slots, the RC ones only have a single slot for the clip, thats why the question of using the o-ring groove I send RC Engineering an email for dimensional information, I got some of the dimensions but not the slot ones. so requested them also.

So that means using the O-ring Groove? Price wise there is almost no difference between the five-o injectors and the RC Engineering ones nowadays. The Five-O primary ones (E5ZE replacements) are now 380 cc/min instead of 370 cc/min and 2.7 Ohm. Both values are a little too high for my liking.

I'm planning to replace my old Injectors with RC Injectors. Are they a straight swap or are modifications needed as their dimensions are slightly different than the original ones. (Lengthwise)

The solenoids are above the rear wheel arches, one on each side and can be manualy activated (they have a small lever for manual operation). You need a bit af flexible arms but not to bad. (see the parts manual). I once had a problem with one of them which was just a loose connection at one of the solenoids.

Just become a FFM (full forum member) and ten you can download the parts manual, which has excellent drawings of the fuel system (and much more). The biggest advantage is that it will also support TLF.

Hope you get the car back on the road soon. Looking at your pictures of the plugs L1, R2 and are R3 which are the same as the bad pistons. Looks like one thing led to the other or at least they are connected. Maybe someone has an idea about it.

only 4 new flexible brakelines ? not 6 ?

Just did a recheck with the Multimeter "zeroed" and no rounding of the numbers: WG Solenoid - 24.07 Ohm TJ Solenoid - 34.85 Ohm EBPV Solenoid - 47.22 Ohm

Measurements were exact, just rounded them to the nearest whole value. (rounding error less than 0.3 Ohm) I used a Metrahit 24S Multimeter. Made all measurements twice. Ok I did not zero the multimeter but checked the "zero" resistance. (was 0.19 Ohm). The WG Solenoid is directly driven by one of the ECU Quad drivers as it is PWmodulated. The outputs of those Quaddrivers can handle max 1.0 A (Datasheet TPIC 2404, which is most likely used in the ECU) with a 1.5 A overcurrent protection. With 24 Ohm coil resistance and 16V (worst case) the current will be around 0.67A which will be OK. (personally I wouldn't like to go over 0.75A). The TJ and the EBPV solenoid are driven by one relay (on a changeover contact) which in turn is also operated by one of the ECU Quad drivers. The solenoid part numbers just came out of the Lotus Parts Manual.

Just measured (measurements taken on the solenoids directly) the following on my car: WG Solenoid - A082M6420F - 24 Ohm TJ Solenoid - A082M6421F - 35 Ohm EBPV Solenoid - A082M6421F - 47 Ohm

Look on the bright side, when you take of the valance and the bumper you can replace the rusty nuts and boltplates, so when the other light needs replacing it is a much easier and quicker job. 😜