fjmuurling

Here is the link for joining and other information: http://www.clubesprit.co.uk/join.html Freek

An idea is to make 2 templates out of some thick piece of wood. The templates need to be of the same shape. Now clamp your new piece of flat wire mesh material between them while making sure the two templates are well alighned. After the clamping it is now easy to bend the edges. Finally cut the excess material away and voila you have a new piece ready for fitting. Freek

Thanks for your idea Atle, however I have an equilizer fitted in that part which consumes the whole panel so I can not fit it overthere. I was also thinking of installing the LED in the doorpanel where the mirror/window switches are located but the righthand side is already quite crowded and the left hand side is out of reach from the driverside so I haven't made up my mind yet. Freek

See the following link: http://www.louwmancollection.nl/ you can choose between dutch and english on the homepage. Freek

I'm installing a new alarm system in my car and Im wondering about the best placement of the LED/FOB key socket. I don't like to drill holes in the leather covered parts. I thought of placing the thing in the centre tunnel top compartment where it is nicely concealed but than it is not visible from the outside. If anyone of you have any good ideas I'm all ears. The diameter of the thing is 15 mm. Freek

Graham, Your car looks stunning, I hope you will be able to use/drive it very soon. Feek BTW is the running problem solved ??

The fuse is there to protect the wiring and the pump. The fuse blows out because of to much current. The cause of this can be a wiring problem or the pump is on its way out. If the pump wears out it start to use more current until the fuse blows. Another problem can be (depending on what kind of pump it is), that there is a blockage on the pressure side of the pump which causes the pump to use more power and thus more current. Freek

Do you still have the EBPV in the exhaust system ? If yes check that is in the open position and not stuck in the closed position. This valve was originally installed in order for the CAT to heat up in shorter time due to emission regulations. They are prone to failure and on a lot of cars they are disabled / removed. If you don't have the valve then maybe your exhaust is (partially) blocked. These things are easy to check. Freek

Bolt Circle for the Esprit is 5 X 108, the centerbore is 60mm for front and rear on Stevens 88-92 and 60mm rear and 58mm front from 93 on. Copied this from the WIKI page. Freek

Maybe the bypass valve in the Turbo is stuck in an open position allowing the exhaust gasses to bypass the turbo instead of driving the turbine side of the turbo. Easiest way to check is to remove the actuator from the turbo and see if you can move the small lever by hand and if it is moving freely. If it is stuck use some penetrating oil to free it. Freek

I agree with Martyn, the alarm is probably connected to the ignition relay. Mine was anyway, I found out when I removed the old alarm system (not a Cobra) as I'm in the process of fitting a new system. Freek

Neill, use rags and change/rinse them regularly you don't have to fill the "bonnet" with water. I suggest to drain the system in order to prevent further leakage as you are awaiting new parts. Freek

Hello Neill, You can use DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 instead of the DOT3 fluid. They are of a higher spec. I would recommend a DOT 4 as the DOT 5.1 is generally of a lower viscocity (thinner). DO NOT USE DOT 5 (without the .1) as this is a completely different fluid (silicone based) and will eat your seals. One last point, when changing your fluid make sure everything is clean and be very carefull not to spill anything because the fluids are a great paint remover, in case of a spillage clean with copious amounts of water. Freek

I'm fitting a new alarm system in my 1990 SE LHD car. While reading in the electrical service notes I found a diagram on sheet 32 (Alarm system wiring - LHD - 90 MY) which shows an alarm connector which has some very handy connections for my new alarmsystem. Anybody knows where I can find this connector ?? The old system was not connected to this connector so that gave me no clue. Freek

The picture is of a rear wheel bearing. Recently I replaced the front wheel bearings and they are pressfit. See the parts x reference for the SKF part numbers of the front wheel bearings (I posted them there). I paid around

just for info 1 bar equals 14.7 psi Freek

Part of the fun I have with the car is maintaining it. I do A,B and C services myself. Whenever I do something on the car I keep a detailed history in an access file, all the bills go into a seperate binder. If I don't have the right tools I buy them. If I have a question I use the Forum or call my main parts supplier or call/email Lotus technical support for an answer. I spent about 15 years at sea as an navigational and engineering officer where I learned the trade. When I just got the car I took it to an independant Lotus specialist in order to fix a leaking clutch slave cylinder and fitting a StST clutch line. When I picked the car up they told me they overhauled the slave cylinder but next time it needs renewing but it is fine now. Shortly after that the thing started leaking again and on further investigation I found the the master cylinder leaking as well. From then on I decided to do all the work on the car myself as the only garage (which is my main parts supplier) I trust to work on my car is 300 km away. Freek

In Holland the price at the moment at the regular gas stations is

Graham do you have side repeater lights ?, I couldn't tell from your pictures There are two electrical diagrams (12A (with sides) and 12 B (without sides)) in my book. If you have side lights then the dashlight is connected to the hazard switch otherwise it is connected directectly to the hazard/flash relay. I suggest making up a seperate test light and connecting it directly to the flash relay or to the hazard switch and see if it is working, if it is you have a wiring problem with the dashlight. If not then ????? BTW your car looks stunning, are the running problems solved????????? Freek

Awesome action :heart: LOTUS :heart: Freek

As you are talking about a half amp (0.5 A) current draw you should start in the 10 A range. 200m = 0.2A. Put hte black testing wire in the COM socket and the red one in the left 10 A socket. Be carefull for testing currents of more than 10A because those connections are unfused. Set the dial to 10A and start measuring. The numbers to which the dial point are the maximum values measured/displayed. If you want to measure anything else you should use the middle (COM) and the right socket, except if you use the NPN/PNP setting which is for use of testing transistors which use the EBCE socket. You probably blew the fuse in the meter as you are not getting any reading. The right socket is probably fused with a 200mA fuse. Replace the fuse and the other settings should be working again. Freek

Very interesting, keep it going. Freek

Same as my 1990 Turbo SE (only mirrored LHD car). The visors are full leather (both sides). Freek

Maybe this helps: AC Condensor Topic Freek

Maybe this is worth further investigating: http://ashcroft.com/products.cfm?doc_id=261 Freek