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sanj

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Everything posted by sanj

  1. sanj
    So can anyone confirm that the correct rotor is the GD323? Looks correct, though Amazon seems to disagree. How did you find that part number?
  2. sanj
    You can find original test gauges on eBay fairly cheap. Search for Kent-Moore J-37118. Here's one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/300979355228
  3. sanj
    It's part number 27093 in the US, they are extremely proud of it. $29 for a one-foot piece at the local chain store.
  4. sanj
    I have both serial port and USB versions available. http://home.earthlink.net/~turboesprit2/bitsforsale.html Postage to Canada will be extra, e-mail me for a quote.
  5. sanj
    No, but the valence does.
  6. sanj

    Oil stat?

    sanj replied to Rich H's topic in Engine/Ancilliaries

    5/8" BSPP
  7. sanj
    Don't be afraid to look for 255/50R16 as well...
  8. sanj
    That is what I was referring to. Your car probably has the strengthened shaft extension, which did away with the need for the support. Your friend's '89 almost certainly has the older setup, my '90 did.
  9. sanj
    Yours is still an early car, as surely the cables are attached on the left side of the transaxle. The right hand shift wasn't introduced until '93.5. Does your car have a steady bracket with ball bearing on the shift arm coming out of the transaxle?
  10. sanj
  11. sanj
    They are Metric, M6x1.00mm. 25mm length should work well.
  12. sanj
    The way I interpret the diagram, removing the module will not affect anything other than the coolant level warning function. The ECM can still trigger the warning light via the engine overheat relay if the engine overheats.
  13. sanj
    That is correct, it is the takeoff for the boost gauge. It should not be left open, regardless, but the car would run fine if it were capped off.
  14. sanj
    Interesting. Clearly there's a big difference between the 'A' and 'B' parts, not that that's much help to you.
  15. sanj
    What does yours look like? Mine (SE) looks like the one in your link, and if your VIN number is lower than 1142 it should be A082M4825K, not B, and there should be two of them.
  16. sanj
    Since you have removed the EBPV then you can safely unplug that solenoid and the one just to its left, they are no longer needed. The relay that drives them must remain in circuit, however.
  17. sanj
    Something is wrong if it won't stay on, it is supposed to be a tight press fit. Normally you have to heat the ring in an oven to allow it to drop onto the hub, when it cools it is on solid. Since you're going to have to pull the hub it would be a good idea to replace the bearings and seal, they're not that expensive.
  18. sanj
    It's 5/8" (16mm) i.d.
  19. sanj
    You will need to install the bellhousing to run the engine, otherwise there is no place to mount the flywheel/crank trigger.
  20. sanj
    The smell is almost certainly due to the missing cat. A cat-only install would probably work quite well.
  21. sanj
    Both struts carry power, the left is for the heated screen, the right for the third brake light. Ground is via a wire to the hinge bracket.
  22. sanj
    The drillings in the flywheel are different between the two models, so it would be cost-prohibitive to swap. Mechanically speaking, it could certainly be done, however. Can you see a part number marking on the clutch cover? The S4 will likely be marked "235 CP 7000", the S4s "235 CP 8300". If the fingers on the cover aren't worn, and the friction surface looks OK, then you could reuse it. I would be inclined to carefully check and/or replace the release bearing.
  23. sanj
    The driven plate is the same, the flywheel, release bearing and clutch cover are different (and typically more expensive).
  24. sanj
    Your chip is either one of Marcus' or one of Andy Whittaker's, but they all used the same 278A ID, so not much help there.
  25. sanj
    All ads on www.lotusforsale.com please.
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