1976 Elite restoration.

[Trunnion 74]

Mine isn't wired at the moment. I'm in the process of wiring everything thing up. I do have all the required components for it though.  I'll have a look when I'm down at the workshop later this week. If memory serves I think two of the rectangular holes have terminals in, but let me check.

I would be interested in seeing a photo of yours wired when done. Save me having to work it out, lol.

[Doris the dog]

5 minutes ago, Trunnion 74 said:

Mine isn't wired at the moment. I'm in the process of wiring everything thing up. I do have all the required components for it though.  I'll have a look when I'm down at the workshop later this week. If memory serves I think two of the rectangular holes have terminals in, but let me check.

I would be interested in seeing a photo of yours wired when done. Save me having to work it out, lol.

Ha ha , I was hoping to copy you with the wiring.  
My original alternator has four wires, one heavy wire from the bolt off the alternator to solenoid, two other spade connections off the FLD connections. A fourth comes out of the rectangular hole at the bottom, which is fixed not a spade that goes to that warning lamp.  

[Gray14]

Copied from a post here, on Face book this moment:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/lotuseliteeclatexcel/?multi_permalinks=7298937490193644&notif_id=1710184925757293&notif_t=group_activity&ref=notif

Dagfinn Topland

The thick red cable goes to B+. I strongly recommend the screw terminal marked B+.

The two big pan one smaller spade terminals is also for connecting the dynamo. The thin wire, appears to be the yellow one going into the old alternator is D+, or more commonly referred to as the charge warning lamp.

The thick black cable is your ground wire. Connect it directly to the bracket of the alternator.

[Doris the dog]

5 minutes ago, Gray14 said:

Copied from a post here, on Face book this moment:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/lotuseliteeclatexcel/?multi_permalinks=7298937490193644&notif_id=1710184925757293&notif_t=group_activity&ref=notif

Dagfinn Topland

The thick red cable goes to B+. I strongly recommend the screw terminal marked B+.

The two big pan one smaller spade terminals is also for connecting the dynamo. The thin wire, appears to be the yellow one going into the old alternator is D+, or more commonly referred to as the charge warning lamp.

The thick black cable is your ground wire. Connect it directly to the bracket of the alternator.

Unfortunately not the same alternator. Mines a Chrysler one.  Which has a regulator mounted on the inner wing.  

[Doris the dog]

The fourth connection on alternator 

 

[Doris the dog]

Success today , I now have a working alternator.  
Stripping out my original one to see why it wasn’t put out full charging voltage , the front bearing was grumbling.  So the friends who’s building (garage) I’m using, had a spare new one but had a direct short.  
Managed to find the fault and fixed it.  
So the car has gone from an alternator dated 1974 to a new one that came with an American engine to be fitted in a customers car. 

[Trunnion 74]

Well done on another win.

 

56 minutes ago, Doris the dog said:

Success today , I now have a working alternator.  
Stripping out my original one to see why it wasn’t put out full charging voltage , the front bearing was grumbling.  So the friends who’s building (garage) I’m using, had a spare new one but had a direct short.  
Managed to find the fault and fixed it.  
So the car has gone from an alternator dated 1974 to a new one that came with an American engine to be fitted in a customers car. 

 

[Doris the dog]

Not a win today. 
Anyone replaced the servo ? 
If so what did you replace it with.  
My master cylinder is newish (couple of years sitting not used ) ) brake pedal goes to floor when engine runs , but is reasonably good when engine not running.  

[Trunnion 74]

I'm putting back my refurbished servo (sjs) as we speak. Nightmare fitting the upper nuts! 

Sorry can't be of more help. Just thought I'd share 😁

[Doris the dog]

12 minutes ago, Trunnion 74 said:

I'm putting back my refurbished servo (sjs) as we speak. Nightmare fitting the upper nuts! 

Sorry can't be of more help. Just thought I'd share 😁

Yep , everything is a battle. 
Looked at a link on the forum of a land rover one , but need to do a bit of drilling etc.  Probably around £100 to buy.  
Guess refurbished will be way more expensive, but straight swap. 

[Trunnion 74]

SJ £260 for an early one £239 for a later one (?) plus the usual. On these he operates a exchange policy.

[Doris the dog]

Brake Servo

In the Lotus parts manual they list the servo as a type 38, which is 7 inch diameter , ( which  matches mine ) and a type 50 which is 8.5 inch diameter ( newer one). Anyone know if the type 38 is the same ones fitted to the Ford Transit ?

[Doris the dog]

Finally the Elite has a working alternator after several attempts, plus new parts, and one new regulator was faulty.  
And it also has working hazards and indicators. Tested my electrical skills to beyond its limits.  
Tomorrow need to get the horns to work.

[Doris the dog]

Today’s challenge, BRAKES. 

Have a reasonable pedal without the engine running, but no pedal when it is running.  

[910Esprit]

Well that strongly suggests its a servo issue.   When you say 'no pedal' do you mean the pedal goes to the floor, but the brakes are generally still operative.  I would check if the adjustment of the master cylinder to servo pushrod is simply out of whack.   

[Doris the dog]

38 minutes ago, 910Esprit said:

Well that strongly suggests its a servo issue.   When you say 'no pedal' do you mean the pedal goes to the floor, but the brakes are generally still operative.  I would check if the adjustment of the master cylinder to servo pushrod is simply out of whack.   

Hi , as the car is parked no engine running I have a reasonable pedal , as soon as engine is running it goes to the floor.  

[910Esprit]

Understood!  So that sounds as though the servo is working, but something else is causing you a problem, such as pushrod adjustment, or maybe something odd like a brake hose is ballooning under pressure (not that I've ever seen that)

[Doris the dog]

2 minutes ago, 910Esprit said:

Understood!  So that sounds as though the servo is working, but something else is causing you a problem, such as pushrod adjustment, or maybe something odd like a brake hose is ballooning under pressure (not that I've ever seen that)

Will check tomorrow.  Thanks for your reply.  Once I sort brakes out it can be driven on the road for first time since 1990 according to DVLA records.  

[TAR]

Could this be the servo non-return valve failing? 

Easy to test by trying a suck and blow on the valve, it should only work one way  

[EXCEL V8]

When the pedal goes to the floor where does the brake fluid go?  Can you see the level rising in the reservoir?

Pete

[Doris the dog]

17 minutes ago, EXCEL V8 said:

When the pedal goes to the floor where does the brake fluid go?  Can you see the level rising in the reservoir?

Pete

Hi Pete , got side tracked from brakes onto the camber of rear wheels. Passenger side had loads of camber.  On inspection the hardened spacer had been placed wrong side of shock.  
They both seem to have a fair amount of camber. Is this normal ?

[EXCEL V8]

How much?  A lot is not normal - factory setting is 0 - 1° negative.

Pete

[Doris the dog]

1 hour ago, EXCEL V8 said:

How much?  A lot is not normal - factory setting is 0 - 1° negative.

Pete

Oooooh !!!!! 
Not got any photos but the top of tyres are well in.  
The previous owner had put the hardened washer on inboard side of shock, so replaced that , but can’t see anything wrong elsewhere.  Lower links are not adjustable, bush one end is set at 17.5 degrees, they appear to be correct position.  
Don’t think there’s anything else to alter.  

[Doris the dog]

Would need to extend driveshaft length to reduce negative camber. 

[EXCEL V8]

Camber is adjusted with shims between the drive shaft and brake drum.

Pete