JPS Project

[Fridge]

Strange that the heater pipework reverted back to early S1. Any idea what the rational was?

[LOTUSMAN33]

Who knows with the factory, whatever was in the parts bin I expect 🙄😁

[CHANGES]

On 05/11/2020 at 16:27, Djs44 said:

On 05/11/2020 at 15:30, v8vantage said:

Any good fiberglass shop can fill in the sunroof, much easier than welding in a section on a metal bodied car. Best to do it now with the body off, makes it easier to flip upside down and laminate inside the cabin. There's a few threads on the forum of people who have done it and explain what's involved.

One of the body shops I've talked with won't do it as they say it sinks over time and will become visible ...

What they mean to say is ... 'We are not capable of doing it well enough ' ... so we will save face by telling you it is not a plausible solution..

Fact is , It is practical and has been done many times without issue . You just need to find the right people ....  Maybe worth giving that body shop a wide birth ....    

[Fridge]

Yes, I'd agree. Always best to get an alternative opinion. Sounds like they don't have the skills required.

As stated this has been done successfully many times to good effect.

[Djs44]

Alternative option conversation started thank you .

Just so you know it was Option 1 who said they didn't want to do the roof . Strange as all they do is fibreglass and composite ...

[Fridge]

Normally in those circumstances, assuming they have the skills but not the desire, is to quote a very high price.

[Djs44]

Bit of progress yesterday - engine and box out , rear suspension stripped . 

Suspension all needs doing - think one of the lower links has a slight bend , the hubs look tired and I might as well do the wheel bearings . And half-shaft uj's too . . 

Also painted lots of brackets and will start the pedal box reassembly next . 

Need to get the big bits away soon as I'm running out of things to do ....  

[LOTUSMAN33]

Your engine and chassis look very clean so guessing they have been worked on by a PO? This is going to be a nice car when done 👍🏻

[Djs44]

Thought I'd take a sneaky peak inside the gearbox and ..... it all looks pretty good . 

Is there a way of checking the diff back lash based on the brake disc movement ?

Half shafts dropped off for new u/j's , steering rack off to Birmingham tomorrow ( thanks Fridge)  for a check over 

 

[Fridge]

Yup. Looks OK.

Have you anyone lined-up to give the gearbox a once over or strip down?

Mine was good, but the specialist changed the output shaft bearings and seals.

The Digbeth boys should do a great job.

[Djs44]

6 minutes ago, Fridge said:

Yup. Looks OK.

Have you anyone lined-up to give the gearbox a once over or strip down?

Mine was good, but the specialist changed the output shaft bearings and seals.

The Digbeth boys should do a great job.

Ref Gearbox - who would you recommend ?

[Fridge]

You could try Citroen specialist Voights on the Wirral.

 

[yeller77]

If you're wanting to do a full strip tranny re-do, I'd strongly consider crating it up and sending to Harry. There's been a few good upgrades through the years.@dsvitesse1 

I'm definitely watching this resto with interest and taking notes!

[Djs44]

15 hours ago, yeller77 said:

If you're wanting to do a full strip tranny re-do, I'd strongly consider crating it up and sending to Harry. There's been a few good upgrades through the years.@dsvitesse1 

I'm definitely watching this resto with interest and taking notes!

Had a chat with the very knowledgeable gearbox chaps in the Wirral yesterday - have decided to leave the box alone and see how we get on. 

Steering rack dropped off for rebuild. 

Half shafts having Dana's finest 1310 joints replaced. 

Struggling to get the bolt that holds the boot lock off - the slim headed bolt head that sits in the tail gate - can't get a decent grip . Has been bathing in WD40 for days but can't get it started - any ideas ?

I started painting lots of brackets , pedal box etc post shot blasting,  with por 15 but wondered if I should really get them powder coated  - any views either way ?

[Fridge]

Probably a good call on the gearbox. My only reservation would be the seals, but these may be intact.

People often use WD40, but for tough to shift nuts I prefer proper penetrating fluid, which is acidic.

Is it the thin headed hex bolt pointing backwards in the rain channel of the rear luggage area, which holds the top of the catch?

[910Esprit]

The only replaceable seals (not including easily changed orings) are on the output shafts and are servicable without splitting the box.  I definitely wouldn't rebuild the box unless its proved to be faulty.  They are durable and not particularly stressed in the NA models.   

[LOTUSMAN33]

Agree with both Steve and David, leave the box if no sign of leakage, it looked good when you took the inspection cover off.

Fridge is right WD40 is pretty rubbish, I work on steam boats which get really rusted and we use conquerer which is a high grade penetration fluid, absolutely stinks but never fails 👍🏻
In fact it’s worse than diesel for getting in your pores, my wife always knows when I’ve used it and moans! 😁

POR15 is excellent stuff so you won’t go far wrong, powder coating often fails and traps moisture.

Dave  

[Fridge]

@LOTUSMAN33 we must stop meeting like this. People will begin to talk.

[Djs44]

2 hours ago, Fridge said:

Probably a good call on the gearbox. My only reservation would be the seals, but these may be intact.

People often use WD40, but for tough to shift nuts I prefer proper penetrating fluid, which is acidic.

Is it the thin headed hex bolt pointing backwards in the rain channel of the rear luggage area, which holds the top of the catch?

Dave - yes the bolt is the one you describe - the only one that has defeated me so far ! 

[drdoom]

It's been reported that ATF and acetone combine to make a potent penetrating fluid, in case you've either of those laying about. Dave is correct on WD40, the stuff is marginally useful. Years back a mate thoroughly coated his Esprit crank upon return from the machinist, tucked it away in a tightly closed plastic bag and was horrified when it later emerged altogether poxy with rust. Thankfully that was only superficial and tidied up neatly after another go at the shop.

Ditto the comments on powder coat.

Cheers

[Fridge]

The bolt only fits on a 10mm(?) nut, so should shift, or even snap the bolt. Awkward access I know.

New stainless steel bolts are available from SJ Sportscars. I never fitted mine, and reused the original by the time the order came through. Seems to be holding up, finish-wise. One of the very few bolts I re-used. For another time perhaps?

[Djs44]

1 hour ago, Fridge said:

The bolt only fits on a 10mm(?) nut, so should shift, or even snap the bolt. Awkward access I know.

New stainless steel bolts are available from SJ Sportscars. I never fitted mine, and reused the original by the time the order came through. Seems to be holding up, finish-wise. One of the very few bolts I re-used. For another time perhaps?

Can’t get a decent grip on the bolt head . I’ve left it again . 
Got the rear quarter light outnumbered tonight and the abs b post finishers , both sill covers , handbrake and cables ( cut through by po ) and seat belt bolts ( again seatbelts cut through) why ???

Out on a business Monday which necessitates a trip past Lotusbits ( it does honestly ) so will drop in to discuss engines 😀😀😀

I don’t particularly want to take out the beam that takes the seatbelt reels and I guess is also side impact related as it seems quite happy where it is . Is it worth cleaning and painting it ( it isn’t rusty and is covered in carpet glue ) ? 
 

Thank you all for your help , this is a great source of “been there done this “👍🏻👍🏻

[Fridge]

That's odd. It is thin though as you say. Have you tried a variety of sockets? It is just a nut on the inside.

I didn't remove the wooden bulkhead as mine was in very good condition. Thereby not the beam with the seatbelt reel mounting. I just removed the reels to prep the inside of the rear luggage area. It was retrimmed later anyway.

I'm not sure this area needs stripping down, unless the wood is rotten, or you particularly fancy the challenge.

Beware Mike selling you the Earth re engine upgrades. Been looking into that myself now that I've ran it for 2,500 miles. There are certain options I can see of practical benefit, but not sure that LotusBits would persuade me personally. Fortunately I've other options on my doorstep.

 

[Djs44]

2 hours ago, Fridge said:

That's odd. It is thin though as you say. Have you tried a variety of sockets? It is just a nut on the inside.

I didn't remove the wooden bulkhead as mine was in very good condition. Thereby not the beam with the seatbelt reel mounting. I just removed the reels to prep the inside of the rear luggage area. It was retrimmed later anyway.

I'm not sure this area needs stripping down, unless the wood is rotten, or you particularly fancy the challenge.

Beware Mike selling you the Earth re engine upgrades. Been looking into that myself now that I've ran it for 2,500 miles. There are certain options I can see of practical benefit, but not sure that LotusBits would persuade me personally. Fortunately I've other options on my doorstep.

 

What upgrades would you go for Dave ? 

5 hours ago, Fridge said:

The bolt only fits on a 10mm(?) nut, so should shift, or even snap the bolt. 

A socket doesn’t work as the chamfer on it means you get little engagement . I’ve tried molegrips to hold it without success . 
Maybe I should burn it out lol 

[LOTUSMAN33]

I would get the socket machined on the lathe to remove the chamfer, had to get this done a few times over the years. 
Any machine shop will oblige as literally a couple minutes work in a 3 jaw Chuck.

Dave