JPS Project

[Djs44]

15 hours ago, drdoom said:

Anything in regard to the choice of TPS @Djs44 ?

TPS ? remind me what that means DrDoom 

On 15/01/2024 at 18:53, LOTUSMAN33 said:

I mounted mine on the bell housing utilising the standard lead set. 
 

My leads are too short to position it there - but I'll investigate new leads as I like the idea of putting the bits there . 

[drdoom]

Throttle position sensor, as seen at the end of the aft carb throttle spindle. Marked DTA.

[Djs44]

On 16/01/2024 at 17:14, drdoom said:

Anything in regard to the choice of TPS @Djs44 ?

Ok , thanks - my engine has mapped ignition (made by DTA ) hence the DTA TPS . 

[Djs44]

Now that I've managed to get the carpet glue off my fingers ( have been  gluing the bulkhead carpet in ) , a question. 

Both my sill covers have rectangular holes in them on the vertical face - what is the one on the passenger's side for ?

Also does the seat belt just fit through the sill or is there something solid that the belt connects to that is connected to the sill mount ? Does that make sense ?

 

[Fridge]

In addition to the handbrake access the inner inner sills have rectangular apertures in the vertical faces to bolt the seatbelts to the body shell.

When fitting the seat belts they have to first pass through the bulkhead and luggage area carpet, inner bulkhead trim, sill carpet, and finally the inner sills, before bolting to the car.

[Djs44]

11 hours ago, Fridge said:

In addition to the handbrake access the inner inner sills have rectangular apertures in the vertical faces to bolt the seatbelts to the body shell.

When fitting the seat belts they have to first pass through the bulkhead and luggage area carpet, inner bulkhead trim, sill carpet, and finally the inner sills, before bolting to the car.

Thanks David - the hole makes no sense - if you have to lift the cill carpet to get to the hole , you might as well undo the cill ...

[Fridge]

34 minutes ago, Djs44 said:

Thanks David - the hole makes no sense - if you have to lift the cill carpet to get to the hole , you might as well undo the cill ...

I can't remember, though I only fitted them last June. Doh! But I probably didn't glue the carpet down on the whole sides, so that access can be gained to the aperture for future maintenance. The sides of the seats hold the carpet against the sill anyway, as the seats sit snuggly in the cabin. I found that trimming and fitting the sills and carpets you had to think a little laterally.

[Djs44]

2 hours ago, Fridge said:

I can't remember, though I only fitted them last June. Doh! But I probably didn't glue the carpet down on the whole sides, so that access can be gained to the aperture for future maintenance. The sides of the seats hold the carpet against the sill anyway, as the seats sit snuggly in the cabin. I found that trimming and fitting the sills and carpets you had to think a little laterally.

I'm finding that everything I plan on the car requires lateral thinking 🤣

[Fridge]

Yes, there's a lot of that at times. I found my full restoration was sometimes more about good project management than anything.

Business has taught me to minimise rework, which is time consuming, energy and money sapping. Generally all round wasteful. Apart from a couple of areas which have been a time sink the restoration was straightforward, just very time consuming. Especially with a pandemic in the middle of it, which prevented progress from a financial and supplier point of view.

[Djs44]

Done a bit more work . Fitted the wooden panels and carpets by the seatbelt mounts and bulhead carpet , as well as the pipe and valves between the fuel tanks  - I'm having to get a lot of parts to fit , so progress is slow. 

I've also fitted a couple of carpet sections . 

The door cards have been off and on many times and I now have both new internal door handles working - I'm now ready to fit new plastic to the doors , fit the new felt trims and then attach wires and fit one last time .. maybe . 

The holes for the dash speaker have been lasered into the leather and that should be stuck down soon 

[Fridge]

Just so you know, as easily changed if desired, the carpet on the rear quarterlight shelves didn't have a cutout for the seatbelt mounts, but were completely covered. The carpet being glued down up to about half way. The remaining just rested on top of the shelf.

[Djs44]

9 hours ago, Fridge said:

Just so you know, as easily changed if desired, the carpet on the rear quarterlight shelves didn't have a cutout for the seatbelt mounts, but were completely covered. The carpet being glued down up to about half way. The remaining just rested on top of the shelf.

David 

Too late , I've trimmed mine to fit round the seatbelt plastic  covers - looks ok . 

The bottom of my door cards ( or rather the leather on them )  are a tight fit into the door aperture/trim - the doors close ok but need a good slam . Is this normal ? Is there a normal ?😀

[Fridge]

No worries, a minor detail.

I'm not sure about the doors. My door cards are covered in fabric, with an underlying scrim foam. I assume that the locator holes align in the lower front and back for the retainers? If so, then the door cards are seated correctly.

I know Turbo Esprits, and probably S3s, with leather interiors were actually oddly a mix of leather and vinyl. I think the lower door halves were vinyl. Added lightness or shiteness, you decide 😆

I'm wondering whether your door cards have been covered with a material thicker than original, or more likely that the scrim foam is a little too thick. As it is often the case that modern trimmers select a far too thick a scrim than originally used. Resulting in the "pillowing" of interiors. Often seen on the glovebox lid or armrest. If the outer face of the door card covering is a little too deep perhaps it's rubbing against the door aperture rubber seal?

Is the door latch and plastic trim surrounds fitted tightly? They bring the centre of the door card towards the door structure ie outwards direction when the door is closed.

[Djs44]

2 hours ago, Fridge said:

No worries, a minor detail.

I'm not sure about the doors. My door cards are covered in fabric, with an underlying scrim foam. I assume that the locator holes align in the lower front and back for the retainers? If so, then the door cards are seated correctly.

I know Turbo Esprits, and probably S3s, with leather interiors were actually oddly a mix of leather and vinyl. I think the lower door halves were vinyl. Added lightness or shiteness, you decide 😆

I'm wondering whether your door cards have been covered with a material thicker than original, or more likely that the scrim foam is a little too thick. As it is often the case that modern trimmers select a far too thick a scrim than originally used. Resulting in the "pillowing" of interiors. Often seen on the glovebox lid or armrest. If the outer face of the door card covering is a little too deep perhaps it's rubbing against the door aperture rubber seal?

Is the door latch and plastic trim surrounds fitted tightly? They bring the centre of the door card towards the door structure ie outwards direction when the door is closed.

I think you are probably correct about the scrim used being a bit thick - I'll see how it goes ...

[Djs44]

Today I checked if the radio worked before I install it . This was my dad's radio in a VW Jetta he had in 1983 ( actually my mum says it was her car ) . 

Connected it to a battery , speaker and aerial and it works fine - last used in 1985 ....

I also finished the passenger's side carpet fitment and have half done the driver's side to secure the wiper motor . 

[Djs44]

Dash leather stuck down , with speaker holes lasered in . I've tried the interior in again, loosely  , all looking good . Running out of excuses now .... 

[Djs44]

Help please 

 

The trim piece round the gearlever/ radio has no visible means of support ( oooo) 

How is this held in place ? I'm reluctant to use the self tappers.

 

[peteyg]

3 self tappers at the back by choke cable/window switch trim. Nothing at the radio end as far as I know though I have air vents below the radio on mine.

Pete

[Rudi K]

I agree with @peteyg. The whole trim should just fit snugly into place around the gear tunnel. The three self tappers screw into flanges mounted on the tunnel and provide added security to the rear of the trim.

 

[Gis]

The ‘radio end’ of the cover has 2 L shaped metal brackets that hook under the dash opening and hold the cover down on that end. Other side, 3 self tapping screws that also hold down the central cover with the window switches, as previously said by the guys. 

[drdoom]

Got a picture of those brackets?

[Gis]

Unfortunately not. It’s been a while since I had the console off. It could also have been one continues bracket and it was riveted into the plastic body of the console with the leather cover atop. Without it hooking under the dash opening the console would not stay in place.

[Djs44]

Thank you for the replys.

From what I can tell, the 3 screws between the gearlever  surround and the window switch panel simply keep the 2 parts together - they don't hold them secure to the body ? The window switch panel fits under the arm rest . I'm thinking that the radio may actually hold the gear lever surround in place . Just got to create a plug for the radio wires and finish fitting the dash instruments and then I'll try this . All switches in place and the cables for the heater . Have a slight issue on the fit between the heater motor and the heater - there is a foul that stops the on/off flap in the heater . 

 

 

[Fridge]

Though different, the S1 gear lever gaiter/window switch panel has four unsightly screws holding it to the centre console. However I found it didn't need them in my car, as you state, the fascia panel on the radio-cassette holds it in place and it's a snug fit.

[Djs44]

Quick update 

Interior progressing well . 

I had to make up a bit to keep the front of the radio/gearlever element secure from moving up , as previously discussed . I also found 2 screw holes that hold the back end down . 

We got the windows going up and down to check that the drive gear wasn't going to cut through the speakers - I did check with cardboard but wanted to be 100% sure . 

There was an earthing issue with the electrics which will be sorted by Lotusbits . 

With confidence that the speakers were ok , I have now done the final wiring and fit of both door cards . I haven't used any self tappers to secure the door cards , then seem fairly solid - should I ?

I have to paint the metal trims that are fitted to the door grabs - both have lost all their gold . 

 

Edited April 13 by Djs44