S2!

[JonSE]

Got the mount plates clear by removing the spigot drives (?) and packed both with grease. Then ran a powered screwdriver through the manual crank and got the whole thing moving. 

One side is still slightly stiffer than the other and I hope I didn’t affect the brushes adding the grease (which are in a separate chamber but I did use some oil initially trying to free up the workings).

Can vouch for the power handling as I wound the armature onto my index finger via the drill process and thought I’d broken it 👆😀

Keeping the motors in that condition as “shabby chic / patina”.

Mounts I’ll powder coat.

Idea can from @Fridge…….

During a visit realised I could reassembly headlamps entirely and hand crack them worst case, so wanted to crack on with getting them all ready for mounting. If they don’t work, I can then address them once the car is running again.

[Fridge]

The lack of grease in the motors is to prevent it softening the plastic cogs, which often crumble on later Elans etc.

[JonSE]

Ah, I can clean it all back out if required then, not a long job. There was some residual stuff in there, but very little.

 

[Fridge]

Just enough. Mainly on the drive.

[JonSE]

https://oldtonewrestorations.com/triumph-tr7-restoration-restoring-the-headlights-motors/?utm_content=cmp-true
 

Interesting article on a TR7 guy completely stripping the same motor assembly if anyone interested……

Started to collate the switch gear at the end of the session, masks have been hacked to accept non-original switches….

[JonSE]

My thoughts are the left hand side binnacle will be now be restored back to standard, including the switch gear arrangement and the fresh air vent (it will be just fresh air from that one as I’m adapting the heating system). I’ll buy the standard mask for that side.

Middle section will be as standard for all the gauges, but I’m going to go with electric oil pressure gauge to eliminate the need to bring oil all the way into the cabin (if I can find an electrical version, spotted a VDO one a while ago). A new stronger mask is on order and I’ll have the gauges redone to smarten them up.

RHD will be in the same style but lack the Bowden cable sliders and just consist of switches to power a fan on the heater function.

Not sure if I’ll use the original circular fibre optic circular resistor dimmer as it’s very cheap and mine is currently apart, might use a higher quality one (if I retain the fibre optic illumination, which I want to).

I’ll need a custom part making as BOTH side binnacle masks have been cut to accept bigger switches……

Can anyone submit images of the S2 switch arrangement they have and a potential source for a headlamp switch?

I don’t mind non-standard masking on the switches but would like to stick with this series. Means also replacing the window lifter switches (long gone) and also finding the switch connector bases as the loom has been hacked to take these later / non standard versions…..

Looking like a small number of switches is going to be £300+ unless I can find them secondhand 😳

[JonSE]

Found the switch layout from the owners manual…

[JonSE]

The owners manual makes no reference to a fog light switch. Would rear fog light still be an option as late as 1978? I seem to recall my old S2 had a fog lamp switch, that was Rover lights also.

The image above does make provision for a “spare switch”, maybe this was wired for rear fog light?

Im tempted to add switches in the custom panel for cooling fan override, a rear engine bay blower, fuel pump kill switch plus maybe others. If I go after market on the heater, this will be just operated with an on / off switch for both hot and cold to keep things simple….

That space will be filled quite well and it will be in keeping with the rest of the dash board.

[drdoom]

John,

The original Lucas switches are swoppable by parts, so quite useful in retaining OEM aesthetics while replacing with newer guts when that is needed. The Fog or Spare switch was so termed because the Federal cars had re-purposed those rear lamp filaments as additional Brake Lamps, thus the alternate terms. In the Fed cars the Fog Lamp switch was non-functioning as consequence. See SJ or Rimmer Brothers for new switches of that design.

I sourced my electric oil pressure gauge from SJ, under parts listed for S1 Europa with Renault engine. Same for the sender.

[skiing]

I also find that the switches come up on ebay fairly often - you want the ones with the ribbed switchable part rather than smooth ones and ideally real Lucas items (the casing will be stamped) - they can be taken apart and re-worked as needed. I also bought a set of switch labels from ebay too (they had the same ones on some of the wedge TVRs as well as TR7 etc) so you can have the right labels if the switches you find don't have them. As far as I can see the S2 and early S3 just had words for switch labels - for example 'Lights' rather than a headlight symbol. You also want the ones which have a green mask to shine the fiber optic bit through - these can also be removed and swapped (carefully) from the switch body as some switches just have a black bit of plastic rather than a green translucent bit with the switch label on top. Others have also put a higher powered LED bulb into the fiber optic sender unit as well. Headlight switches can also overheat easily unless you have LED headlights or better relays etc. 

[peteyg]

Rear fog switch bottom right.

[JonSE]

Is there a source for the switch backs (mounts) anyone is aware of? The originals have been cut out to allow scrap yard replacements in!

Searching for the ribbed toggle version of the Lucas one, my internet search history is going to lol interesting with these key words……😀

[skiing]

TRIUMPH TR7, TR8, LOTUS ELITE, Jenson Healey Aux Light Switch 33825 | eBay

This one is lucas and has the right ahem ribbed bit - I have just got one and the quality seems good. 

and these are the switch decals for the correct labels if you don't have them - not as good as the original ones but better than nothing!

 

TVR Switch Legend decal | eBay

[JonSE]

Thanks!

Just checking @skiing, the light switch looks smooth on the eBay images, did it arrive with a ribbed rocker?

The legend / sticker link is a large number of generic ones, do you have the supplier you bought from?

Thanks!!!

[skiing]

The search on eBay for the labels should be ‘TVR Switch Legend decal’ that should allow you to find the labels which are in the right font etc. Sold by someone called fergalblue (3547) - it is a while since I bought them. The link to the switch shows me the right one with the ribbed top - so should work for you? 

[JonSE]

Ah, thanks! Found the label guy, getting those on order!

Headlamp switch I’ve ordered, found that adding SER to the PN gives the correct result….this now on order and quite a decent price tbf…. 

Thank you @skiing

Turn out I’m “serrated” and not “ribbed”…….😀

Reference is TKC5089SER

[JonSE]

I’ve been looking for a fan switch like this and there is nothing out there, I can see why my car has had some aftermarket switches fitted now…

 

Would by chance the headlamp switch work in the same way, as it’s also 3x way (off / 1 / 2)?

I could buy one and change the mask if so…..

I’ve noticed a few images on the forum threads where the switch gear is of a mixed type….

[JonSE]

If I can keep with the one version of that Lucas range, that will be fine.

I might have to either bite the bullet and spend £120 on 2X window switches from SJ of this type, go with the Lucas type for the S1 (which seem available for less and also look pretty good) or go with a suitable after market type.
 

The ones that came with the car are OK but don’t really suit, and the central tunnel mask got cut to accommodate them……

Does anyone know the part number for the socket the proper Lucas types fit into on the loom itself?
 

Expect that it’s a universal socket and you configure pins according to the function? 

Can’t seem to locate it and I’m going to need a handful.

If anyone spots a fan switch that comes up for sale, I’d be grateful if you can flag it to me😀

[JonSE]

Looking at the parts bin I have this is the progress so far…..

[drdoom]

Be mindful always that the swiches have unique pin configurations, sometimes utilised by Lotus for multiple connections so examine them well as you proceed. Those pins may not be readily repositioned, they are fused into the switch body plastic. Otherwise, prior comments stand in terms of interchanging toggles, lenses and so on. The plugs have so far eluded tracking down for replacement.

 

[Djs44]

13 hours ago, JonSE said:

Looking at the parts bin I have this is the progress so far…..

Jon - I have a brand new 4 switch panel ( the metal bit ) that you can have next week FOC 

[JonSE]

Thank you!

[JonSE]

This was highlighted to me via another forum, looks like it might do the job.

Also reckon my 3D guy could be up for doing this & some of the external black trims if I can’t fix mine to a suitable level…

 

https://mgbhive.co.uk/product/111-835-hazard-warning-switch-plug-kit/

[JonSE]

New meaty dash mask arrived fresh from the 3D printer, Impossible Creations LTD. Looks great quality and a vast improvement over the thin dash mask (mine was long gone sadly….)

Looking forward to getting the binnacle sorted.

Might try them for some of the side capping trims and also the plug socket for the Lucas switches down the line….

[JonSE]

Are there any suggestions for a good supplier in the UK of mixed stainless steel nut and bolt kits for none stressed applications?

Things like mounting the boot lock mechanisms etc….