Oil level

[alanlambert]

Got my engine apart and in doing so noticed that the bottom of the  dipstick is 40 mm below the rim of the sump and the oil baffle is 45mm down.

I put 5 litres in the sump and it came upto 40mm ( 5mm above the baffle and just about to run out of the turbo oil connector holes.)

If i had more oil in the sump to the max mark on the dipstick the oil oil from the turbos wouldnt drain easily.

I'm wondering if my dipstick tube is mounted too high.

Anyone got a measurement of their dipstick protrusion ??

[mike_sekinger]

The measurement from the top of the locknut to the bottom of the dipstick tube is exactly 110mm.  There was a special Engineering tool for setting the depth and it is specified in one of the manuals.

[Escape]

I would think that it's a good thing to have some oil remaining in the turbo drains, rather than have them empty completely. Once the engine is running, the level will drop a bit anyway.
Feel free to correct me if I'm missing something.

[mike_sekinger]

The standard turbo floating bush bearing will want a constant flow of fresh pressurised and cooled oil for optimal lubrication.  As the oil return is gravity based, you want that to be free of any obstructions (including sump oil level).

For turbos with a ball bearing cartridge, you would want an oil restrictor on the turbo feed side, but again the return should be free to the sump.

[alanlambert]

Thanks guys, i do have 110mm on the tube,

Its just the oil level even on the minimum mark (40mm below lip) is 5mm above the baffle and level with the oil return holes.

Think i will be running on the Low mark not Max in future.

Next issue is the timing chain slack.

I am hoping that this slack was causing the noise i could hear on the transition between light load and no load.

[mike_sekinger]

I found the reference in the Service Notes:

When fitting a new dipstick tube, mark the tube at 103mm from the bottom.  This marking must coincide with the top surface of the dipstick hole in the block.

This is consitent with the 110mm from the bottom of the tube to the top if the locking nut. 

[alanlambert]

Thanks Mike

[alanlambert]

Right ... Timing chain.

Its a Morse chain and its quite slack all round the idler gear should this be a snug fit to both gears.??

Seems to be same as Rover V8 27link, anyone confirm ??

 

[mike_sekinger]

There is a small play when fitting but once the gears are in position and the snubbers in place, there is no slack movement.

 

[alanlambert]

Is this too much, i would expect the chain to be snug all round ?

[mike_sekinger]

That looks normal and is removed when the chain is under light pressure.

In the image I can see that your IMS shaft bearings are ball race.  Those should be upgraded to the later style roller bearings.

[alanlambert]

Thanks Mike.

Ive still not found anything broken or worn (other than the cam rubbing blocks) that might have been causing tapping on light load and when hot, buzzing from the oil cooler pipe.

Will keep digging !!

 

[alanlambert]

12 hours ago, mike_sekinger said:

That looks normal and is removed when the chain is under light pressure.

In the image I can see that your IMS shaft bearings are ball race.  Those should be upgraded to the later style roller bearings.

Mike. my bearings are only 10mm wide, dont know if i can fit wider roller type.

My engine was a development engine so maybee that wider bearing was thought a better bet for the production engine. Here is a pic of inside my front cover compared to a pic you posted for reference a couple of years ago, mine(the dirty one) has had to be relived to clear the chain tensioner bolts and the right hand side of the production part is recessed away from the block compared to mine ?

[v8GTmac1]

21 hours ago, mike_sekinger said:

 

In the image I can see that your IMS shaft bearings are ball race.  Those should be upgraded to the later style roller bearings.

learning something new!   Do you also grease them up upon install?

[mike_sekinger]

Yes, Graphogen grease

[cweeden]

12 hours ago, alanlambert said:

Mike. my bearings are only 10mm wide, dont know if i can fit wider roller type.

My engine was a development engine so maybee that wider bearing was thought a better bet for the production engine. Here is a pic of inside my front cover compared to a pic you posted for reference a couple of years ago, mine(the dirty one) has had to be relived to clear the chain tensioner bolts and the right hand side of the production part is recessed away from the block compared to mine ?

Wow, that's interesting. I have a new cover for my rebuild, the oil pump parts had some scoring and it seemed almost economical sense to replace the whole thing including PRV. I have no plans for the original cover if you think it might be a useful upgrade?

(I will however need to check the replacement is of the correct type now I know there is more than one 🙂  )

[alanlambert]

9 hours ago, cweeden said:

Wow, that's interesting. I have a new cover for my rebuild, the oil pump parts had some scoring and it seemed almost economical sense to replace the whole thing including PRV. I have no plans for the original cover if you think it might be a useful upgrade?

(I will however need to check the replacement is of the correct type now I know there is more than one 🙂  )

Thanks for the offer Chris.

I still have to check the oil pump on mine and investigate availability of bearings but if i cant find decent ones i might give you a call.

Ta

alan

[andyblackman777]

Surely the dipstick depth would be governed by the length of the dipstick itself and the length of the outside tube to the locknut?? The tube inside the engine wouldn’t alter the dipstick position.

Im interested in this because when I completely drained my oil. (Oil coolers off etc) , a lot of oil went back in to get the level to register on the dipstick  8.5l!

I wondered if somehow the tube position had changed. I’m concerned that the engine may be overfilled  

Cheers Andy

 

[mike_sekinger]

Andy you are right. The service notes are written to support correct positioning of the outer tube, which also needs to attach to the rear of the RH cam cover.

On the amount of oil, the service manual states an oil refill of 6.5 ltr but you must remember that when performing an oil change the oil coolers do not drain.  When you are performing an initial fill of the complete system you will require something much more like your observed 8.5 ltrs.

[andyblackman777]

Thanks Mike. No need to worry then 👍👍

[alanlambert]

Engine together and now quiet !!

No timing chain slack

No ringing from the starter gear and no buzzing from the oil cooler pipe

No tapping from injectors.

Well happy.

Just got to get it mapped now iv'e fitted slightly bigger injectors