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Which clutch master cylinder 2010N/A ?


Go to solution Solved by Tim K.,

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Hey !
 

one month into ownership of 2010 N/A and clutch stuck to the floor. Pulled back up and seems to be fine - but am sure will need changing in due course.

looks to be the original metal version fitted - so should I go for a direct oem metal replacement or bite an expensive bullet and go with BOE with exorbitant shipping costs to uk  or wilmood at 400$

presume as it looks to be on original unit (no record of change to master on invoices too) go with that ?

as always your counsel is much appreciated

 

 

3DE8557C-3363-46BA-B2A1-12CE06143FF2.jpeg

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The OE master cylinders aren't significantly cheaper than the aftermarket ones. If you're going through the expense of changing it out, might as well go Wilwood or Tilton (BOE), as both of them are rebuildable from the pedal side. So if/when it comes time to R&R them, there would be less labor involved down the road. 

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  • Gold FFM

First time around, I replaced like-for-like in my 2010 N/A but the replacement OE unit didn't last very long so I swapped it for a Wilwood one from Greg's Race Parts - I must have got the 'authorities' on a good day as I didn't pay a penny in import duties or VAT, :thumbup:, so the cost wasn't much more than an OE one to get it here.

It's a much more substantial unit when you see it side-by-side with the OE and, as agentdr8 says, a big bonus is that it's rebuildable from inside the car (albeit you'd need to be a contortionist to get down into the footwell, :rolleyes:) so saving the faff of having to remove the clam if a repair ever becomes necessary.

1998114861_EvoraMasterCylinderSwap010821008.thumb.JPG.59f12bb0a0587d103226e76df2c02da2.JPG

 

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  • Gold FFM

The only small 'issues' I encountered during fitting were:

1. The hole for the clevis pin securing it to the pedal was a fraction undersize so had to be reamed out very gently to get it to fit.

2. The connection for the fluid tubing into the top of the MC from the reservoir is a different size to OE. I was replacing it anyway as there was a lot of black goo inside mine but it did mean that I had to purchase 2 different diameters of tubing and a step-down adapter to splice them together.

3. The braided hose supplied to go from the MC to the bulkhead junction was too short as it was designed for LHD cars. I had my local friendly workshop chop the extra length needed from the OE pipework and connect it to the hose with a suitable coupling.

1785118315_EvoraMasterCylinderSwap010821003.thumb.JPG.3bfea4cb389cd28412657b0d07244d66.JPG

1592886278_ProjectEvora110821001.thumb.JPG.64f7d3255c471f086c6d753ff30ddde6.JPG

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • Solution

Nothing yet….

On 27/05/2022 at 06:18, Cdm2018 said:

How much in the end given import duties you need to pay the courier ? 
I was told if you give the delivery address as commercial place you don’t pay the duty ? 

 

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  • 1 year later...

Good thread. I've now ordered an Evora clutch master cylinder from GregsRaceParts. 

Mine has just failed, 82,000 miles. Metal cylinder as early car. It went in traffic on A40, somehow I travelled another 10 miles in London, using 2nd gear and keeping well back from any traffic to avoid having to use the clutch. It's the first time I have kept the 20mph limit in town 🙂

If you turn off the ignition, the pedal can be lifted back to aid some use but I wouldn't recommend going far.

Justin 

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Two weeks ago I had the dreaded clutch pedal drop happen at 6pm.  The car, on 38.5k, was parked facing uphill on my extremely steep drive for several hours with full handbrake and left in first gear while I gave it a full valet.  I lifted the pedal and pumped it, and got it back into the garage on the flat.

The dilemma I had was that the next morning I was off to Europe, on a much anticipated roadtrip with my son, taking in Spa and the 'ring.  Le Tunnel and hotels were booked, a track day at Spa paid for, track day insurance paid for, new helmets purchased, European breakdown cover arranged,travel insurance arranged etc.

  What would you do?

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