Engine restart after 15 years

[Fefeu52]

Hi Guys!

I'm working on my 1987 registered Turbo (built in 1986) to take it back to the road after a 15 years long sleep (in good conditions, dry garage).

I need your help to suggest me the parts to check or change.

Of course I will change all fluids (engine oil, coolant, gearbox oil, fuel) ; filters (oil, air, fuel); all fuel system (hoses, pump, clamps).

All the belts (cam belt + V-bets).
Water pump rebuilt.
Ignition system : Plugs, spark harness, cap, rotor arm, all the low tension harness between the amplifier, coil and distributor.
Fuel System : I'm rebuilding the carb set
Checking the wastegate
I will try to start the engine without rebuilding the turbo immediately. I think there is to much radial slack in the shaft, but I will try.

Is there any interest to replace the front crank oil seal when the belts are off ? No leak observe.
Should I replace the thermostat (£120 complete box)
Cam cover gaskets ?
Any other idea ? I'm only talking about the power train

Cheers.

[TAR]

Oil seals can become hard and brittle over time with lack of use.

The thermostat will likely be OK, you could remove it to test with some hot water.  

[LOTUSMAN33]

Sounds like a good list, 15 years is a long time so the oil is likely well drained from the internals now.

As a minimum turn the engine over without the spark plugs to get oil pressure up first. You can lubricate the cam lobes ok by removing the covers as planned and pouring oil over them. I always pre-fill the oil filter with some oil but don’t overfill as you’ll make a mess screwing it on. 
Once running you can do a coolant flush, check the radiator hoses when you drain it initially for any sludge as well.

Don’t be surprised to find several leaks once running with hardened seals as Tim states.

Good luck and keep us posted 🙂

[Escape]

Definitely fluids, filters and belts, as per your list. Everything else, like the ignition system I would test/try and not just replace. There will be plenty to do in any case, might as well try to start it with just the necessary work and then see what needs attention and what is fine.

Good luck and keep us posted!

Filip

[GavinT]

I would remove the oil feed to the turbo and hand pump oil into the block. Pump a good amount in, like a a 1/4 of gallon. With the cam covers removed fill the sump by pouring oil over the cams.  With the plugs removed, mist the cylinders with an oil spray - WD40 maybe. With the ignition disabled, spin the engine on the starter. You should get oil pressure fairly quickly. Once you establish you have pressure, keep spinning the engine. Don’t over do it but enough rotations to get the oil well and truly circulated. Then check for leaks. If your real lucky the front and rear crank seals will hold.

Best of luck!

[Fefeu52]

 

On 31/08/2023 at 00:12, LOTUSMAN33 said:

You can lubricate the cam lobes ok by removing the covers as planned and pouring oil over them.

You're right, I have "camlub" I use when building a new engine. I will do that.

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Everything else, like the ignition system I would test/try and not just replace.

The ignition system was in really poor condition. Spark leads snacked by mouses, harness botched haphazardly....

Quote

I would remove the oil feed to the turbo and hand pump oil into the block. 

I will try that....

A picture of a job done this week :

 

[CarBuff]

Not part of the engine per se,

 

But DO replace the brake/clutch fluids before you attempt to move the car! 😬

[lotus-62]

lubricate the engine before turning seems like a good idea, was thinking to use a hand driven oil pump to feed the oil into the engine before turning just to pre lub the bearings and cams.... 

 

[EXCEL V8]

I modified a second oil gallery cover (where the oil pressure gauge sender is fitted) to accept a dash 6 fitting which is in turn connected to the outlet of a garden sprayer container.  You can then feed oil at pressure to all the bearings.  My sprayer just happens to have a BSP thread on the outlet, so made up a hose with BSP at one end and AN6 at the other.  I use an EPDM rubber gasket instead of the paper type - reuseable.

Pete