track day essentials??

[r3nault]

Maybe already mentioned - is a baffled sump needed on a 2GR with sticky tyres (and a decent driver)?

[El-RGB]

This thread had already a lot of knowledgeable gurus giving great contents, and I learned so much reading them. (Especially the insight Dave telling about the intake which probably I'm running on.)

I'd like to fill in a bit of the experiences that I have on my Exige (an early model V6s).

First, a big difference from previous chats is that I've tried the Spitfire front VRSAS arms, which I'm able to achieve -3 degrees camber at the front. I can't say that I loose too much stopping power in a long straight braking, but I do notice a whole lot more speed I can carry at turning in the corners. 

The second is a ATB torsen LSD. There were numerous debates over this topic, at the end I'm sure it comes to a personal choice. For my shoes, as previous said, I have -3 degree in the front (225 tires), and I'm running -2 degree rear (275 tires) with nitron 3 way damper. I had to say I enjoyed so fxxking much at the corner exits. The stability and movements that I can modulate with gas pedal control, it is just awesome. Again, it can be a person preference. 

Third, I, too, am using Motul Gear 300 75W90 oils, and with a JUBU gearbox cooler, all the gearbox overheating issues were cured. I'm sure both KT and JUBU will just do the job fine, but I have the JUBU cooler just because I have the consideration on also road driving the car. 

Maybe one last thing I'd like to share to the topic is the JUBU single disc clutch + lightweight flywheel. After comparing the oem and JUBU single disc clutch, I would say that it should be the same AP disc used on Evora 400s (same ones on later model Exiges and on OP's car). There is nothing wrong with this organic disc, it is just an enlarged surface disc compared to the old oem disc. As for JUBU's flywheel, from a driving perspective, I'm not a pro driver, and I can't get the feeling of faster revving or the little power/response that it should have delivered. However, it does make the road driving a bit more difficult. On the good side, it's an completely redesigned one piece housing, compared to oem, it got rid off the chances that the oem teeth can crack or break, and this could end up in a more chaotic event when driving hard on track (But I'm not 100% sure anyone actually had this happened before). 

Abeit from some general topics that many could've already knew, hope the above track preps are meaningful to share and discuss further. Cheers,

Frank

[Sotirios]

good stuff to know. The good thing about 410/430 series cars is they already come with a gearbox cooler. i might just upgrade the fluid and also check the stock pump is fully operational as some cars have theirs stop working for whatever reason. The clutch disc and flywheel in 4xx series i believe are already the upgraded units from factory compared to earlier v6 cars...i may be wrong but i read they are uprated from previous gen cars. I might try add camber at front only as the factory setup allows and see what happens and im definately upgrading my brake fluid as that seems to be a given

[Sotirios]

https://www.martiniracing.com.au/sint-75w80-r-t-gear-oil

is this good to use for the gearbox?

[Paul_D]

It's still a 75w80 oil so will get thin at higher temperatures like the OEM oil. In fact, looking at the datasheet it's very slightly less viscous at 100°C than the OEM oil. 

Are you not able to buy Motul Gear 300 75w90 in Australia?

[Sotirios]

is the 75w90 ok for gearbox internals though? being a 90?

https://www.martiniracing.com.au/sint-75w90-r-t-gear-oil

 

they do a 90 but its GL5 is that ok

[Sotirios]

Viscosity,

mm²/s @ 40°C  90.9

mm²/s @ 100°C 15.1

viscosity index 175

this is for the havoline 75w90 75w90 MTF full synthetic oil

now the OEM oil is a 75w80 correct? i cant find specs on the 75w80 havoline mtf

 

is the higher the number on viscosity at 40 and 100 degrees better ?

what am i looking for here?

Edited August 29 by Sotirios

[El-RGB]

I asked JUBU the same question regarding Motul 75W140 being a GL5 oil. Here's what they replied:

"We have had better experiences with Motul 75W140, 

as under extreme conditions the damage to the gearbox is higher than to the brass synchroniser rings due to poor lubrication."

 

I think what they mean is that if you do track often, this oil provide more advantages than the downsides of the oil decading your synchros. 😆

 

Frank

 

PS: I had a typo above, which I'm currently using 75W140 as what JUBU recommended.

[Sotirios]

Wow, so confused now. My car is predominently a street car i take for joy rides through town or hills on odd occasion and do between 3 to 5 events a year so unsure of whats best for me now.....

Anyone reading this....list ur oils used a d oms done on track over time and any issues??? 

All i know

Wow, so confused now. My car is predominently a street car i take for joy rides through town or hills on odd occasion and do between 3 to 5 events a year so unsure of whats best for me now.....

Anyone reading this....list ur oils used a d oms done on track over time and any issues??? 

 

All i know is, when i used my car on a track with 53second average laps, after about 8 or so laps the gearbox became noisier and more vocal with a louder whine on deceleration through the gears and gearlever felt warm, so traNsmission got hot and this track had 3 hairpin hard braking corners after 3 long straights

[jmcvaughn]

Just to echo the above, I'd be interested to know what the recommendations are for road use. I'm getting very occasional crunching into 2nd, and have long wondered if moving to Motul Gear 300 75W90 is a smart idea...

[Sotirios]

Did a 15min search and found the data sheets of 5 brands with same viscosity. Redline mt90 seems to have higher overall viscosity at 100 degrees and higher overall. All gl-4 and all 75W90 below for comparison

[El-RGB]

To OP's question, I think you can also do a few TLF searches at the gearbox topics, you will be surprised how many Exige owners shared the same gearbox issues, and many got resolved by using Motul 75w140 oils.

From my previous experience, the oil protection can't be judged by just looking at the oil viscosity... I believe it is something more complicated than this.

Frank

[Sotirios]

Did most primarily resolve with motul gear 300 75w90 or the 75w140?. 

[Bravo73]

14 hours ago, El-RGB said:

and many got resolved by using Motul 75w140 oils.

👆

[mik]

I was at Anglesey last Monday (first time on track with the Evora) and took my DeWalt tyre inflator with me. Much faster than a 12V plug-in job, and uses the batteries you already have for your tools. Almost everyone in the group I was with (10 cars) ended up using it at some point during the day. Great piece of kit. Other tool manufacturers make similar.

 

Library image

 

[Sotirios]

https://www.redlineoil.com/superlight-shockproof

https://www.redlineoil.com/lightweight-shockproof

 

Just wondering, has anyone tried the redline shockproof gear oils. Redline says it has film thickness greater than 75w140 but fluid friction of a 75w80 or 90 oil....anyone know if it ca t be used in gearbox due to chemical make up?

[DH2]

As stated in your links, the shockproof product line is desgined for dog boxes, it will not work with synchro box.

 

[Sotirios]

i booked my car in for service and will try the AP racing R3 brake fluid and the redline MT-90 75W90 and see how it goes

[Sotirios]

I can report the redline mt90 75w90 is smooth as silk shifting

[Sotirios]

This is a bit off topic but seeing as its the first thread ppl see i thought id ask in here.

What is the aize of the supercharger pully on the exige 410/430 series? 

Ive seen a 72mm pully on a website which raises boost from 0.5bar to 0.6bar just by changing pully but an ecu remap is needed? Anyone mucked around with this?

[Sotirios]

For those interested in how ive prepared my car for track use, i had my car tuned on a dyno today remapping the stock ecu by a renowned tuner in australia. 

They installed following modifications

- BMC drop in high flow air filter

- aerie stainless headers

- aerie stainless y-pipe

-  titanium 90 degree elbow pipe(no cat)

- aerie titanium muffler with valve delete

I deleted the valve and didnt use the 90 degree elbow pipe with the 200 cel cat and opted for the complete cat delete purely because there have been a lot of failures with aeries exhaust systems with valves and cats and elbows coming off as its no v-band etc. Ive had the complete exhaust system for a few yrs but never installed the parts, except for the titanium muffler box 2 yrs ago as car doesnt need a tune when you only change the end muffler section and this is when we discovered the valve shut permanently closed during a spirited drive so we deleted it altogether to minimise disasters. Driving the car around with titanium muffler for 2 years with stock headers and y-pipe did change the sound to more of a race feel but now its completely different and sounds angry. Anyway, the shop said the stainless headers and y-pipe all connected up decently well but needed some tinkering and modifying to make fit perfect. 

 

My end result was a baseline of 224rwkw with complete stock car first to see what it makes standard and after fitment of the exhaust and air filter it jumped to 254rwkw. This equates to about 50HP at the crank extra so my 410 is essentially a 460hp at the flywheel car now much like what people get overseas.

The torque and power curve is very smooth and the sound from this complete system is almost deafening....i wore ear plugs on the way home no joke. It sounds very exotic with the titanium and cat deletes etc, its actually quite awesome and f1 sounding but loud and it drives very smooth.

Im thinking of changing the supercharger pully next to a 72mm to raise boost from stock 0.5bar to 0.6bar which is from 7.5psi to 8.5psi for an extra 30 to 40Hp next. The car accelerates more rapidly now and is nice and smooth.

Below is the dyno graph which im pretty sure has a 25% drivetrain loss.

They increased my rev limiter from 6800 stock to 7100 as it kept making power up top and theres another exige local to me running this rev limit with heaps of track days and zero issues.

Ive just had Redline MT90 75w90 gearbox oil put in and AP Racing R3 brake fluid, mobil 1 full syn engine oil put into car too and filter. Next is to get a GEO Wheel alignment, put my yokohama advan A050 slick tires back on and go and enjoy some laps. I Got a fancy top end Alfano tire control 2 guage to use which measures tire pressure before/after session and tire temp with probe. Lastly i had an Aim MX2E finally put in which ive been meaning to get for a while now. I Bought an OBD Link MX+ along with a Racebox mini S for GPS to hook up to the Racechrono Pro app on phone for accurate telemetry overlays for track videos. Up until now ive used racechrono pro on its own for videos and its quite accurate but because i had no external GPS module or an OBD scanner i could only get minimal data overlaid on videos whereas now i can get RPMs etc. I angled the cup 430 wing up to its most aggresive setting... and now ready to enjoy some laps....

Edited September 18 by Sotirios