Clutch time...

[Rich H]

Hey all,

It looks like my clutch is slipping, suspected it was on it's way when it wouldn't hold while undoing the crank nose bolt a while ago, it also might explain the apparent lack of go occasionally...!

A couple of questions if you would be so kind:

I have seen the LEW guide, it shows the clutch being done with the box moved back and driveshafts in place, looks reasonable... any gotchas?

I have a gearbox output seal to do too, anything else worth doing while I'm there?

How long should it take me on my own, I've seen 4-6 hours quoted?

Finally: where is the best place to look for a standard clutch, SJ have them for £180 (+VAT I assume) they are £300+

Got a feeling it's going to be an expensive car month...

Many thanks

Rich

Edited February 17, 2011 by Rich H

[Bibs]

http://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/index.php/topic/21423-clutch-101/

There are about 5 pages of topics on clutch changes in here mate

[Vulcan Grey]

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=explorer&chrome=true&srcid=0B2nifoCpaFSfNjk1ZDdmZmQtNzBkNC00MDAzLTljZGYtNTZmZTdlYWQ3OWNk&hl=en

and https://picasaweb.google.com/lotusse/LotusClutchAndTranny#

Edited February 17, 2011 by Vulcan Grey

[fsrowsell]

Rich, I just replaced mine, but I took the gearbox out... I bought my clutch kit from Geoff at http://www.Espritengineering.co.uk for 200 plus vat.

Cheers

Felix

[Rich H]

Cheers guys!

Informative as ever!

I'm going to check the clutch hydraulics and adjustment is correct (Clutching at straws! ) tomorrow and get one ordered

Rear main seal and pilot bearing worth doing? Looks like a bit more time but not too expensive... is the pilot bearing pressed in?

Also car on the deck or up on sticks?

I'm erring on up in the air to start with to get the exhaust off then drop it down to move the box back...

Thanks

Rich

Edited February 17, 2011 by Rich H

[Bibs]

Sparky had a very bad experience with a clutch from Esprit Engineering, triple check it's the right one if you order from him. If you want an OEM one, we've got them listed in the shop.

https://www.thelotusforums.com/shop/search.php?orderby=position&orderway=desc&search_query=clutch

[lotus4s]

If you're going to try to replace the rear main seal (I would if it hasn't been done recently) along with the pilot bearing, then pull the box. Not enough room to do it right by just sliding the box back. Plan on resurfacing or replacing the flywheel if the clutch has been slipping.

Edited February 17, 2011 by lotus4s

[Rich H]

OK I'll pop the box off first and have a look.

If the flywheel needs to be done then I'll pull the box and do the RMS otherwise I'll leave it.

Does the pilot need pressing out/in?

Thanks

Rich

EDIT:

Actually I've been here before - that's just a daft idea.

I'll get the fly resurfaced and change the RMS and pilot bearing.

Otherwise both will fail inside a week

Edited February 18, 2011 by Rich H

[Rich H]

Searching found that it needs pulling out by the look of it.

[freshcut]

If it's like the V8, the bearing is pressed into the rear of the crankshaft, along with some loctite adhesive of some number which escapes me for the moment. I found the easiest and cleanest way to go about it was to use shredded bits of paper (taken from the discharge bin of my paper shredder), soaked in water and packed into the pilot bearing hole. Find a suitable punch or in my case, I used a socket and extension to drive the paper mash in, keep adding more paper as needed. It took me less than 5 minutes to remove the bearing and any residual paper wiped out much easier than grease would have (which is the "standard" method most use). AS I recall, taking my time and occasional breaks here and there, the whole process of GB removal, clutch replacement and reassembly took somewhere around 6-8 hours with help.....would have been 4-6 without the help, but was my step-dad assisting me, and couldn't exactly tell him to go away.

[Rich H]

So not so much help as hinder then! My not-quite FiL is about the same....

I can borrow a engine hoist which would make things easier if I have to drag the box out.

[mike_sekinger]

The gearbox isn´t so heavy. If you place a protective blanket/cover on the transom, you can simply lift it up onto that.

Cheers,

Mike S

[Rich H]

Thanks - don't like the sound of balancing the box on the fiberglass but I suppose it's tough and thick enoguh...

Can you get the inner driveshaft joints out by disconnecting the inboard upper and lower suspension links?

Or can I manouver the box enough to disconnect them once the box is disconnected?

It was very hard work getting the lower stud out the other side last time!

I read about pulling the inner joint to bits instead of pulling the shaft, would save disturbing the new output seal on one side if possible....

Edited February 18, 2011 by Rich H

[mike_sekinger]

I normally drop the inner (chassis end) of the bottom-link. Then you can pull out the bottom of the whole wheel/hub and slide out the driveshaft. It is a bit tricky with one person - especially when re-installing the driveshafts and having them line-up on the spline.... easier if you have someone else to do the pulling.

Tip: apply the handbrake when re-installing each side and move the output shafts to get alignment.

Cheers,

Mike S

[Rich H]

Excellent thanks!

Last time I fought for ages to remove the bottom outer pin...

[Rich H]

Exhaust is off, no real problems apart from the 3 EBPV bolts which were sort of rusty stalagmites... eventually snapped 2 and cut one.

Looking in the timing window the clutch looks very thin...

[fsrowsell]

You don't need to pull apart at the spline... Just pull apart at the boot, after cutting the strap of. That way you do not disturb your seals and it is very easy to do by yourself....

Cheers

felix

[Dave Freeman]

Just a recommendation before you replace, use a OEM clutch, I used the cheaper version cannot remember who from but I have noticed under extreme load its not man enough to cope, I should have used perhaps an uprated clutch on reflection as many of us modify the engines to increase the BHP, ie de CAT, ram air, rechip, straight through exhaust, all these are putting more load on the clutch. Save time and money - fit an original or uprated unit.

Dave

[Rich H]

Will bear that in mind - thanks!

[mr.oogieboogie]

while its out refurb the translator at the back of the box will only cost a few pounds but make the gear change much better, watch out if you try to remove the crankcase sensor mine fell apart, doing the clutch was not too bad but i had problems getting the gear box back in eventually wound it in using a bolt either side, other things are check the fork spring and replace the half shaft pins, i also replaced every nut and bolt with stainless as the ones on there looked very rusty

Edited February 19, 2011 by mr.oogieboogie

[Rich H]

Cheers, translator was refurb'ed 3 (?) months ago but the cables need greasing (or replacing) and the internal lever bits need refreshing (Lathe + nylon = new bushes!)

Don't like the sound of stainless + ali casings but I'll be replacing anything that looks manky with new BZP with a dab of low strength loctitle for good measure!

Thanks for the tip on winding the box back in and the crank sensor!

Looks like this will keep me busy for a while....!

Question:

With the back engine cover off (with the RMS in) do I need to drop the oil or can I just leave it?

Next question:

Front crank seal - how hard is it to get the bottom timing pulley off? I read that they can split somewhere...

Cheers

Rich

[freshcut]

for the RMS, you should be able to do it without removing the oil as most of it should remain in the pan, however, seeing that it will provide a large enough opening to allow foreign material to be accidentally introduced (hopefully unlikely, but chances always exist), I'd suggest an oil change just to be on the safe side. Remember, oil is cheap insurance. Anytime I open an engine or gearbox, I always replace fluids as a few extra bucks to ensure fresh fluid is much more economical than an expensive repair due to oversight later down the road.

[Rich H]

Fair point thanks.

[Simon350S]

Be wary winding the gearbox back on!

If it doesnt slot all the way home on it's own there's a very real chance the clutch plate isn't lined up completely.

If this is the case and you wind the gearbox on the input shaft will at best knackered the bearing in the end of the crank, at worse it will push the input shaft back into the box and buckle/break the gearbox casing... I've seen it happen before so tread very carefully!

Edited February 20, 2011 by Simon350S

[Rich H]

OK then no winding in! I'll make myself a clutch align tool (Bit of wood in the lathe) and get it right first time

Anyone got any thoughts of the front crank seal? I've got one but how do you go about getting the timing pulley off?