Engine Mount Bolts Sheared

[nickh]

Yes you've guessed it-right hand side engine mount appears to have sheared the top and front bolts with the rear bolt still in but only just and apparently its threaded so won't tighten up!

So my question is this:- has anyone else had this happen and if so-is there any way of making the necessary repairs without removing the engine

If it is an engine out job is this easier done with the gearbox removed first or as a complete lump

Any tips hints suggestions would be greatly appreciated as always

Thanks Nick

PS Sorry about the lack of punctuation but the relevant keys on my laptop have stopped working!!

[andydclements]

You'll probably need to remove some of the ancillaries and induction system but a decent battery drill a decent drill bit (may need to be cobalt steel) and you should be able to drill enough of the bolt out to get an easy-out or similar to remove the remains of the bolt.

[nickh]

Hmmmm really can't see how you would get a drill in there-especially the front bolt as the chassis arm is right in the way

[andydclements]

You can use the (horrid but necesary) flexi-drive things for drills.

[slewthy]

Would a 90 degree drill get in there? I bought a very cheap one from B&Q for £20. This attaches to my normal drill and has worked well under heavy load with no problems. Worth considering?

[nickh]

Considered the 90deg drill bit with my mechanic earlier today but as he pointed out-he wouldn't want to drill into the block when you can't see what you are doing

Andy-i hear what you're saying but do those things actually work-can't see how you'd get enough pressure on it

Think its leaning towards engine out unfortunately

[dodge1979]

As much as an emgine out job is a big undertaking..you could do well by it. Its perfectly within your scope with the right equipment, a few friends and patience. Youll be able to fully service the engine, new belts and water pump, change of all fluids, change any seals that are leaking...and have a poke around the bay too...make sure everything is tickety boo and good for tge next two years...although if you get someone to do this for you it will be expensive..but by your own labour a couple of hundred for fluids and gaskets....

[nickh]

Yes im thinking this is probably the inevitable opportunity i've been waiting for-and you're right about getting those niggly little oil leaks sorted!

With that in mind i have also been considering changing the exhaust manifold at the same time so have been looking around for possible replacements only to discover that only really like for like is the way to go but as this seems to be rather expensive and im not aware that mine has any problems at the moment is it worth doing

Any thoughts on this guys

While im at it-as my air con is permanently redundant (see my post on charge cooler woes) is there any reason why i can't remove the air con pump at the same time-does it need to be there for any other reason

[mc21.8]

take the mount off and migweld a nut on the remaining parts,hey presto it will come of easy with the heat penetration,and a helicoil insert on the remaining one.

wheel of and get your head under there for more room ect its doable<fingers crossed>

[rogerch]

Once you have the mount off and out of the way, (nasty job, you have ratchet spanners don't you) you can have a look and see what you're up against. Any drilling and or helycoiling I'd be taking the engine out, just too risky to try in situ'

[CHANGES]

Hi Nick,

I had exactly the same happen to me a few years back on my SE , in fact all mine sheared and the engine dropped the air con pump onto the chassis.

I did repair in situation, but it was fiddly . The bolts left in were not actually that tight when it came to it , it just felt that way.

I used a 90 degree drill with 3mm drill bit then opened to 5mm and then used stud extractor on two and the one with a bit if thread proud

i welded a nut on as previously suggested.

I replaced with slightly longer bolts as there was some unused thread in the block on those which were not too bad and helicoiled one.

I also welded an addition onto the engine mounting and used the spare threaded hole next to the mount on the block for extra strength.

This worked well and held for several years.

However on this last build i drilled them all out and replaced with 10mm bolt system

Dave

Edited October 16, 2011 by CHANGES

[ramjet]

Nick,

This seems to be a recurring problem with these bolts. When I got my S4 one of the bolts was missing and the other 2 were loose with one of them having quite a bruised thread from the mount rattling around on it as the car was driven.

As the bolts had spring washers on them, I came up with another idea to prevent them coming loose. Click on the link below to see what I did to stop them coming loose and possibly shearing or falling out.

http://www.thelotusf...post__p__258222

[mc21.8]

as above, also s/steel lock tap washers as used on ehaust manifolds do the same job,should have been used from new tbh!! <<<<<<<lotus canteen <to much pie and not enough hands on experence>

[rogerch]

I use this stuff going into alloy (non combustion heat) There's probably a Loctite equivalent. It's on the mount to engine block bolts right now.

[nickh]

OK Hopefully will get it back on ramp tomorrow and have another look

Seems there are one or two options to consider before i take the plunge

The more i think about it though the more it makes sense to remove the engine as i know there's a slight oil leak probably coming from the front cam shaft area(or somewhere up that way) and as was stated earlier it would be an opportunity to sort any other minor problems

Are there any "must do's and don'ts" to ease the engine removal process that you guys who've been there before can clue me up on-or is it as straight forward (but labour intensive!) as the service notes suggest

Thanks for the suggestions so far chaps

[dodge1979]

Must dos include taking your time! Donts are dropping the engine on the bodywork... But seriously though, it will depends on your facilities as to how easy it is. Ive seen pics of the engine and box taken out sideways over the rear buttress, but thats only possible if you have the hight in your workspace and a crane that will lift high enough. Because the engine sits so far forward an ordinary crane wont reach and stay balanced to lift the engine dead level...which is required. However, I modded my crane to give me enough reach to take it out over the rear of the car.it was a touching cloth moment, as there was litterally millimeters of space between the bumper and crane and engine assembly and bodywork..hence the need for a few willing hands to keep her steady.some logical preperation is required to ensure everything is disconnected prior, you dont want to be struggling with and connections while the lump is swinging happily in the air above your pride and joy!

You mention your exhaust manifold..if there is nothing wrong with it dont worry, if its blowing like mine was, get it shot blasted and make sure there are no cracks or pinholes. Mine had a hole, but that was easily repaired. It all depends how far you want to go and how much to spend. Fuel tanks could be taken out...always wise, but if they need work the cost is increasing. Where abouts are you? If your not a million miles away id be happy to lend a hand..regards darren

[CHANGES]

'' you dont want to be struggling with any connections while the lump is swinging happily in the air above your pride and joy!''

.regards darren

what i can't understand is ...what has the wife got to do with this. !!!!!!

[dodge1979]

:-P. Oh that made me chuckle....but valid point dave

[nickh]

Thanks for that info Darren-every little helps as i heard somewhere before!

I have no worries on the space\facilities\equipment front as my mechanic is also a good friend who lets me use his shop just about whenever i want

He has pencilled in next Tuesday for "us" (mostly him ) to get the lump out so im just trying to gather as much info as poss to aid the process

Agreed on the manifold front-its another example of stupid money if you ask me so fully intend on sticking with what i've got

Any thoughts on the removal of the air-con pump and is it advisable to recon the water pump no matter what whilst im at it

Im in Harrogate-North Yorks by the way

Nick

[mc21.8]

May as well do your f/b crankshaft oil seals/aux housing,check your cambelt adjuster,new belts,shimm the valves,water pump,clutch bearings/ect,drive shaft oil seals<+new pins>oil filter+seals and change the oil while you are at it

if you want to loose weight loose the AC sort of stuck with the pipe work if not removed,oh yes best to check the petrol tank condition<!!!>

should keep you busy till the new year

[dodge1979]

Exactly as above! If the engines out...change everything you can...youll find you regret not doin it if you dont!

[nickh]

Well plenty to go at there then!!

Did the clutch earlier this year so no worries on that front-however problems with synchro on 3rd gear so probably get that looked at whilst its out--more expense!!

Will see how things look once the engine is out on Tuesday and keep you all posted with progress

Watch this space

[nickh]

Quick update-engine is out with no major setbacks other than having to cut PAS chassis pipe (worry about it later)

It appears most of the oily mess has been created by PAS pump but not too sure untill i get it all cleaned up

The one thing that has puzzled me slightly is the large flat washers on top of the gearbox mounting rubbers- 2 on the right 1 on the left

I note from the Lotus Parts Catalogue it says 2 per car yet on SJ's site it lists 3 per car Does anyone know the reason

for this

[dodge1979]

I only had two on mine! Also, if your splitting the gearbox off the engine, the bottom two bolts on the bellhousing are shimed...it should have stamped on the underside of the bell by the bolts the thickness of shim...mine was 0.0 and had no shims...

[sanj]

I believe 3 washers is correct.