1979 Yellow Lotus Eclat: My project thread

[EXCEL V8]

I usually resort to the Stillson wrench for nuts like that - the harder you turn them the tighter they grip.  Get the heat back on it and go to work with the Stillsons.  If the flats on the track rod end are in good condition get a good-fitting spanner on them and prop it on some timber while working with the Stillsons.

The upper arm bushes look scabby but will probably still be working OK.  I pressed some out a while ago and wished I hadn't - it took so much pressure it distorted the hole - I had to use bearing adhesive when I fitted new ones.  I'd clean up the arms and leave the bushes.

What do you use to remove rust?

Pete

[soldave]

A minor step forward and then stuck again! Following on from my issues yesterday with a stuck track rod lock nut, I got two Stillsons and set to work on it. After a hell of a lot of heaving I finally got it to turn, although it's not easy. Now for the easy part: removing the track rod end itself.

 

Or not. track rod end itself is not budging an inch. Have tried one Stillson on the rod itself and one on the end, tried putting tie rod end back into steering arm, tried heat, dried Plus Gas... the Stillson on the arm is just shredding it. Am not sure quite what to do now. Feels like the end's not going to come off the rod at all

 

Is it possible to remove the rod from the power steering rack without removing the whole rack, or am I going to have to go all out and remove that too? Also, does anyone know if the power steering track rods on an Eclat are the same as any other cars? Can't seem to find any Lotus ones online

[dmottram]

"Lotus Marques" in Australia may well have them. Steve has a range of new track rods.

[Tony D]

Looking at the state of the nut, I'd go straight for a radial cut through the nut and down into the track rod end also. Will be easy to judge depth so not to go too deep. You'll then have a nice step to hit with a drift to turn the nut away. The combination of heat and shock should show it who's boss. 

Tony 

[soldave]

1 hour ago, Tony D said:

Looking at the state of the nut, I'd go straight for a radial cut through the nut and down into the track rod end also. Will be easy to judge depth so not to go too deep. You'll then have a nice step to hit with a drift to turn the nut away. The combination of heat and shock should show it who's boss. 

Tony 

The nut I've moved a little; it's the track rod end now that's stuck and won't budge. Getting blow torch tonight so will see if I can persuade it gently with some more heat.

[EXCEL V8]

If you can use mapp gas it gets much hotter.  Is it a manual steering rack?  If so you can't remove the track rods without drilling out the securing pins first.

Pete

[hedgehogjuggler]

get a disc cutter and put a slit down the length of the track rod as close is you dare to the threads then use a nut splitter into the gap to spread it slightly it may move then, if not some more heat and the stiltson should shift it.  If your blow torch doesnt get enough heat into it and you have access to a mig welder run a bead of weld along the opposite side to get some serious heat into it.

 

Bash

Edited August 13, 2020 by hedgehogjuggler

[soldave]

You recommended the heat, and I brought it! Copious amounts of blue flame, plus some cranking on the Stillsons and the track rod came free. Had to do the same with the lock nut but got that off too. So now I can continue with front suspension disassembly and see what kind of state the rest of the bushes are in. Will take both sides apart before anything gets ordered as I don't know if I'll need to replace both track rod ends just yet.

But minor successes, and this year any success should be celebrated

[EXCEL V8]

Well done Dave - it always feels good when you sort a tricky problem!  Even though I completely coated everything with copper-slip on the same area of my Mercedes 2 yrs ago I still had to get the mapp gas torch on the track rod lock nuts recently.

Pete

[soldave]

4 minutes ago, EXCEL V8 said:

Well done Dave - it always feels good when you sort a tricky problem!  Even though I completely coated everything with copper-slip on the same area of my Mercedes 2 yrs ago I still had to get the mapp gas torch on the track rod lock nuts recently.

Pete

Thanks, man. On the rust removal front, I'll probably wire brush everything and then maybe Hammerite. Nothing too extravagant. If the springs are in decent condition I might get them powdercoated or something.

[EXCEL V8]

For rust removal I use a 10% citric acid solution with a bit of washing-up liquid as a surfactant - cheap to buy citric acid powder on fleabay.  Remove all the paint and put in the citric acid solution (warm if poss) - leave overnight and then wire brush.  If rust remains, repeat.  If you've not used it before you will be amazed at the results!

Pete

[soldave]

53 minutes ago, EXCEL V8 said:

For rust removal I use a 10% citric acid solution with a bit of washing-up liquid as a surfactant - cheap to buy citric acid powder on fleabay.  Remove all the paint and put in the citric acid solution (warm if poss) - leave overnight and then wire brush.  If rust remains, repeat.  If you've not used it before you will be amazed at the results!

Pete

Will give it a try! Won't damage the bush that's staying in the upper arms will it?

Also, what's a decent way to get the rest of the paint off the parts before the citric acid?

Edited August 13, 2020 by soldave

[EXCEL V8]

I soak stuff in thinners to get rid of paint, but don't leave the rubber in for long - perhaps hang the arms in the thinners with the bush above the level.  The bushes are fine in the citric acid.  When all the rust is gone wash the citric acid off in warm water and dry immediately - rust starts to form again within minutes!  If left for all the rust to disappear you are left with a perfect surface for etch primer.  I never use Hammershite!!

Pete

[mikeeech]

vinegar is really cheap in tescos for rust removal

Edited August 14, 2020 by mikeeech

[soldave]

Well I got one side of my front suspension taken apart today. Even the blowtorch couldn't loosen up the track rod end on the passenger side so am going to have to get destructive and cut into this one to get it off. But on the driver's side the shock is off and with spring compressors not fitting perfectly it was one of the most terrifying things I've done! Am going to have to try and borrow one of those tools people have made specially for the task as the spring compressors I found were pretty thin but still not great for the job.

 

The spring looks in alright condition but the damper has probably seen better days. Take a look at the video with sound on. It might be that cleaning up the rust will stop the grinding noise, but they may be due for replacing.

 

Spring shoulder, damper bushes and lower link bush don't look in great condition either so they'll all be replaced. On the positive side when it's all together and tracked it should handle a lot better!

[Trunnion 74]

Dave, want to borrow my spring compressors when you put it back together again?

Just a short trip to Donny.

Roland

 

 

[soldave]

2 minutes ago, Trunnion 74 said:

Dave, want to borrow my spring compressors when you put it back together again?

Just a short trip to Donny.

Roland

 

 

I did send you a message about that., and I (and my wife!) would greatly appreciate it!

Will wait to get everything else in and then will let you know, but very much appreciated

[soldave]

One other thing I noticed was that the upper wishbones on the passenger side didn't want to come free of the stud they pivot on. Am in half a mind to assume that as the drivers side ones were in good condition whether I can just leave the wishbones in situ and put the suspension together around them.

[soldave]

Front side wishbone came off with a lot of persuasionand a bearing puller but the rear one won't budge and I can't get a puller in there to get pull it back out. Stud won't move either so getting very tempted to clean up what I can and put it back together.

[EXCEL V8]

Could you make a spacer for the front and tighten against it to remove the rear arm?

Pete

[soldave]

1 hour ago, EXCEL V8 said:

Could you make a spacer for the front and tighten against it to remove the rear arm?

Pete

Think that's what I'm going to do. Will probably get a bunch of washers so if it comes a bit but still sticks I can put more washers in and pull it further out.

I've just watched and listened to that video again. That damper sounds awful!😮

[EXCEL V8]

The damper sounds a bit scratchy but I think that will disappear with the rust.  You look like you're having to put a bit of effort into moving the damper rod though.  I had my old Armstrong dampers measured on a dyno earlier this year and they still measured perfectly, so although they looked scabby they were still in good shape internally.  Hopefully you might be surprised!

Pete

[Trunnion 74]

20 hours ago, soldave said:

I did send you a message about that., and I (and my wife!) would greatly appreciate it!

Will wait to get everything else in and then will let you know, but very much appreciated

Have read your message.   I know what you mean!  Using a set of standard spring compressors is VERY SCARY!!  Especially when unwinding the tension when it is off the car...

I'll get it ready for you.  You can let your wife know you will be using the correct tool when reassembling  😂

[soldave]

Steering rack is going to have to come out and be rebuilt (if I can get hold of a power steering track rod) or replaced. Cutting through the track rod end to get it off and of course I cut a chunk out of the track rod itself too. The kicker is the track rod end still won't come off   😭

Given the rebuild kit is £54 and I'd need a new track rod or two... I'm wondering if the £200 +VAT for a reconditioned rack (exchange) from SJ might not be a bad option. They or Lotusbits may charge even more if one of the track rods is damaged. Better do some Arthur Anderson style accounting to keep the cost of replacing these few suspension bushes away from my wife!

Edited August 16, 2020 by soldave

[soldave]

3 hours ago, EXCEL V8 said:

The damper sounds a bit scratchy but I think that will disappear with the rust.  You look like you're having to put a bit of effort into moving the damper rod though.  I had my old Armstrong dampers measured on a dyno earlier this year and they still measured perfectly, so although they looked scabby they were still in good shape internally.  Hopefully you might be surprised!

Pete

Got a wire wheel on some of the rust just now and cleared it up a bit. The grinding noise had almost gone; replacing it a bit of gurgling sometimes when I compress or expand the shock. Doesn't take much effort to compress but expanding it takes a bit of force. But then one time out of around 20 it will come very easily for an inch or so as if there's no resistance and then will feel like it's got "normal" resistance again.