Norfolk mustard S4

[Chillidoggy]

Is that Parts and Service manuals you have?

 

[Bibs]

You get an official copy of the parts manual to download if you upgrade to a full forum member...

https://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/store/category/2-subscriptions/

[Clarky5150]

Both I believe. I will join as a full member next month. Just had to join Club Lotus again for first time in 12 years for insurance discount. Nothing has changed there.

 

[Clarky5150]

Booked a local auto electrician to visit next Thursday. Says he loves working on classic stuff. In the meantime I can get on with other non power jobs and have a few hrs to figure it myself. The old alarm was removed by a lotus garage 3 months ago so I am convinced now that this is where the problem lies. Whether I find the fault or the ae does all previous tampering will be 'de connectored' as I am not a fan of scotch blocks, spade connectors or other bodge efforts and resoldered/heat shrink wrapped.

 

 

[Chillidoggy]

5 hours ago, Clarky5150 said:

Both I believe. I will join as a full member next month. Just had to join Club Lotus again for first time in 12 years for insurance discount. Nothing has changed there.

 

Head's up - It's possible to put the parts manual on iBooks, I have it on my iPad, and find it very useful in whiling away the time at work. I have a feeling the service notes file are somehow too large to transfer by email attachment, but there might be a way to do it via the worst programme in the entire history of computing, iTunes.

[Barrykearley]

@Clarky5150 now from memory I have had similar - twice.

The relay box in the boot - there's a red and white wire (think that's the colour) it's fairly fat that runs from that - up and over the drivers side rear wheel arch area - and off to the front relay console. Half way up the rear wheel arch is a connection bullet - these come apart. And you have had your hand in this exactly area with your vac pipe shenanigans. 

[Clarky5150]

Great. Will check that out when I get home tomorrow. Did have my hands inside there checking stuff.

[Barrykearley]

I've knocked that connection off twice before - it kills absolutely everything up front.

[Clarky5150]

IT LIVES!!!!  

Checked all the items suggested by the kind board members but to no avail. Absolutely dead. Checked power at battery again and it was still fully charged. Thought I would then follow the cable runs to see if there was a break. Stuck the tester prong on the starter live and earthed the other prong and heard a click of a relay somewhere up front. Checked the live cable and gave it a wiggle and everything came to life! Turns out it was pure coincidence that I was working in the centre console. Gave me a good chance to look under the front bonnet alarm ecu cover tho. The two big relays have just been tie wrapped to the cable sheaths feeding the ecu.

could someone please post a pic of where and how they should be mounted please.

Thanks again to everyone for the help in the matter.

 

[Barrykearley]

Clean that fire wire contact on that starter motor!!

[Clarky5150]

I'm hoping it's not called a fire wire for the wrong reason...

[Clarky5150]

Good few hours spent today. Carpets reglued and cleaned in passenger side. New clips made and fitted to engine bay side covers, tidy up of wiring in passenger footwell.

Found the lambda sensor was in finger tight and missing its washer (if it ever had one) crush washer sourced and refitted. 

The tinware on the the outer drop glass seals had rusted and deformed causing some nasty scratches to the drop glass. Repaired and adjusted. Will polish out the scratching in the coming days but will eventually replace the seals and glass.

mixed down some correct colour scuffmaster and commenced the touching up.

slowly, slowly....

[Clarky5150]

Very busy at work this week and odd jobs on the house to sort so only a few jobs completed this week so far. 

A very satisfying job was the repair to the console arm rest

 

Removed, de-bananafied and strengthened with epoxy resin before refitment. Now sits nice and flat. 

Glovebox lid lock rebuilt, refitted and adjusted.

I feared for my life when I drove her home the first night in the dark and spent a good few hours researching upgrades to the headlights.

A clean and realignment however has made them considerably better. Think we will keep with the concaves after all.

 

Edited October 18, 2017 by Clarky5150

[Clarky5150]

This evening I have been mostly removing the front bumper. It has been taken off at some point and the corner bolts not replaced so we had droopy corners.

 

Every nut was corroded on and all the captive bolts had escaped. Followed Mr OogieBoogies' walk through which was really useful. Had to improvise toward the end  but all off now. Will remount with some redesigned fasteners to make future strip downs far quicker. 

Well earned beer and feet up for the night now.

 

Edited October 18, 2017 by Clarky5150

[Clarky5150]

[stephenwhyte]

Great to see you’re getting stuck right in - definitely with an appreciative owner now and will be all the better for it once your done

[Clarky5150]

Ha ha, I was really appreciating Norfolk style construction yesterday. I always love working on stuff like TVRs and Lotus as things are held together with nuts and bolts, and not Citroeny one use plastic shite. This job did test my patience tho as rusty fastenings in unreachable places make hard work. It's clear that at no point in the cars evolution have they considered the effect of changes in design or additional hardware on the fastener locations making most inaccessible once the car is built. A shame really as a simple rethink makes front end removal far quicker and easier and would have cut labour costs at repair time massively. 

I'll add the details to the front bumper removal post once I've fabricated the new mountings should they be of any use to others.

[Clarky5150]

Bumper and lower spoiler split using grinder and slitting disc on the corroded fastenings. Stainless M6 bolts and nuts purchased.

inner edge of the bumper where it joins under the wing reglassed wher it got chavelled on removal. 

Indicator housings stripped out and chrome painted. 

Made up a captive bolt plate for inside the wings. Made from SS bolts and some alloy joining plates that I found about 20 feet of in a skip at work. Simple solution that works. Finished item will be neater. Will make similar items for attaching the rubber lower lip (very high speed humps on my work estate). 

 

[Clarky5150]

Guess there won't be much gym work goin on this week at ours.

[Chillidoggy]

Impressive work!

While you're at it, you might want to check the rear diffuser brackets. All mild steel, and prone to failure, with the diffuser ending up on the road if they do. Page 41/42 of my refurb thread.

[Clarky5150]

Noted. I'll add it to the evergrowing list ?

[march]

23 hours ago, Clarky5150 said:

Will make similar items for attaching the rubber lower lip (very high speed humps on my work estate). 

I was told a neat trick with this - Use Nylon bolts so should you hit anything nasty they will fail before you do any damage to body work. So far they have worked well.

[Clarky5150]

Yay! My oil coolers and rad are in good nick! Just a weep to sort out on one of the oil cooler unions. Tublovely and unmolested too. 

Thanks for the nylon bolt tip. ?

[Clarky5150]

Rebuilt but not happy with panel gaps so off we come again ??

Edited October 22, 2017 by Clarky5150

[Chillidoggy]

While you've got the front bumper off.....................

I replaced both my old horns with new ones, and they're still crap. I could fart louder, quite frankly. If I did it again, I would fit something more appropriate, like twin air horns, as long as they're not in plain sight.