Crankshaft rear oil seal replacement

[Glyn Harper]

Starting a new thread In case anyone searches in the future.

I’m considering due to the oil around my sump, changing the rear crankshaft oil seal.

My gearbox is already out, so is this a reasonably straightforward job to do, or is it likely to require a massive load of work? No idea how to change it.

-edit- Just found the procedure in the service notes. However, the notes seem to suggest you re-fit the seal cover with permabond, yet SJ Sportscars list a gasket. So is the gasket used now instead of the permabond? Maybe with some wellseal or something?

Also, do you need to drain the sump when taking the cover off to replace the seal? Only just changed the oil about 60 miles ago.

lastly, it shows a special tool to refit the cover and seal. Is this special tool really needed?

cheers.

Edited December 3, 2017 by Glyn Harper

[Vulcan Grey]

I did it while the clutch was out.  Used Loctite 518 or 5188 anaerobic sealant. 

I don't use the special tool to center, I oil the new gasket and slid it on carefully. Being careful to place all the bolts and tighten in stages so as not to pull the seal to one side.

I did need to press the new seal in using a hydraulic press and a large round piece of metal or plastic...

See my photos here

https://goo.gl/photos/cKgMdHyquAmWT2xbA

I also replaced the pilot bearing.

[Glyn Harper]

Awesome, thanks Travis.

With regards the pilot bearing (couldn’t find that initially as Lotus call it a spigot bearing) does that come off easy enough or does it need a special tool or any special process? The engine isn’t coming out so I need to do it in situ really.

totally agree it makes sense to change while the box is out though. Good call!

[jonwat]

49 minutes ago, Glyn Harper said:

With regards the pilot bearing (couldn’t find that initially as Lotus call it a spigot bearing) does that come off easy enough or does it need a special tool or any special process?

Fill the bearing with grease & hammer a suitable drive into it, the grease will force the bearing out. 

[Glyn Harper]

Really? I'm not sure of that process. Is there a proper puller I can use? Not sure what type to get. Not changed one of these bearings before.

[Loose Cannon]

So glad I did this now when my engine was out.

 

A stack of old CDs were a perfect fit to press the seal home into the carrier plate using a hydraulic clamp! Impossible to get square otherwise

Didn't have any problems sliding the seal onto the shaft with a cone of plastic though some said it was impossible without a special tool?

I then used SJ's gasket and wellseal to mount the carrier plate to the block, messy stuff but seems to be OK so far. MOT tester always says its a leak though as its looks like congealed oil!

[Glyn Harper]

That's good. I've got some wellseal still. It is proper nasty stuff! I think it contains a lot of trichloroethylene which is quite bad for you. Gloves on standby!!

[Chillidoggy]

1 hour ago, jonwat said:

Fill the bearing with grease & hammer a suitable drive into it, the grease will force the bearing out. 

You can use bread instead of grease, too.

[Glyn Harper]

Erm, ok. Thanks.

[Sparky]

Not wholemeal though.

[Vulcan Grey]

The grease trick does work. Need a round item approx the same diameter as the I.D. of the bearing.

Have not tried bread...

Make sure you press/hammer in the new spigot bearing by the outer race only!  Use a similarly sized round piece of metal or plastic.  Otherwise you'd damage the bearing.

[Chillidoggy]

17 hours ago, Sparky said:

Not wholemeal though.

 

Really? I’ve always used plain white before, so.that’s useful to know.

[Chillidoggy]

22 hours ago, Glyn Harper said:

Erm, ok. Thanks.

 

Google it if you don't believe me.

[Glyn Harper]

Ahhhhh..... I'm with you now. fill the void where the bearing is with grease and the hydraulic pressure will push it out when you hammer something in.  I'm borrowing a snap on bearing puller (a small one) so I'll give that a go first but bear the grease trick in mind.

To remove the flywheel bolts, is it necessary to lock it somehow before trying to crack the nuts? Or just use a breaker bar and crack them that way?

Ordered the loctite for replacing the bolts, and coating the new bearing. Not cheap!!

Gearbox leaves today on it's travels to Telford. Hope it gets there in one piece! Although it's the trip back I'm more concerned about. I'm tempted to go across and collect it myself, although that's about £250 on the ferry, £50 in fuel and £80 in a premier inn. Although at least it gets me away for a weekend on a bit of a jolly.

59 minutes ago, Chillidoggy said:

 

Google it if you don't believe me.

Wow, I did.... That's genius!! I'm sorry I doubted you!

Here's the proof!