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Clutch 101


Bibs

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  • Gold FFM

The key question I'd like answered: Can you just shift the box back far enough to negate the need to disconnect driveshafts/suspension, or is that just a little too tricky?

British Fart to Florida, Nude to New York, Dunce to Denmark, Numpty to Newfoundland.  And Shitfaced Silly Sod to Sweden.

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The key question I'd like answered: Can you just shift the box back far enough to negate the need to disconnect driveshafts/suspension, or is that just a little too tricky?

I have heard of it being done but personally I can't imagine how.

You can undo the bolt on the lower control arm where it bolts to the chassis and then swing the rear wheel out far enough to unbolt the gearbox mounting bolts.

1982 DeLorean DMC 12 #16327, 1999 Lotus Elise, 1998 Lotus Esprit GT3 #2272, 2011 Lotus Evora S, 2013 Lotus Exige S,2016 Lotus Evora 400,2019 Lotus Elise Cup 250

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Sparky, yes you can, it's tight but possible. The problem I encountered was getting the bell housing past the turbo clean side casing.

It's easier, and may be quicker in the long run to disconnect the drive shafts, so you may find it's best to replace the external drive shaft seals at the same time.

Until I read you r post I was worried, and thought the step by step guide needed was as follows.

Bibs drives car to service agent.

Ask for clutch to be replace with solid disk (can't think of any normal system that could handle a certain persons driving).

Bibs collects car once finished.

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  • Gold FFM

Hehehe!

Well, I was looking for the easy way out (I'm inherently lazy) but yes - I may have to succumb to doing it properly. Ho hum.

I've modified a clutch from this, but I'm not sure it's up to the job:

104288main_crawler-shoes.jpg

British Fart to Florida, Nude to New York, Dunce to Denmark, Numpty to Newfoundland.  And Shitfaced Silly Sod to Sweden.

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I jus did mine, ( took two years all up), and not that hrd. I thought it was going to be a lot harder than it was due to the massive torment it gave the last mechanic who did the last one.

I did as follows:

Electrics disconnect inc starter motor

exhaust inc turbo off

drive shafts off, (in my case with inboards - discs and calipers too)

clutch slave cylinder out

clutch cable/linkage out

rear cross bracing out

bellhousing bolts out

I used an engine crane, ( cheap as chips from store like halfords, ipaid about 120GBP for mine)

I removed clutch no worries and had the flywheel skimmed

replaced clutch and aligned with very technical clutch aligning tool disguised as plastic funnel

replaced all and hey presto!

not sure if yours is as simple as that mate, mine being the Citroen Transaxle and all, but cannot be to much different.

I think i actual hours it ould have taken me about 6 or 7.

the two years it took in reality were due to procrastination and fear of it, coupled with a lack of time and an over abundance of laziness.

HTH

Justin

"Laugh" and the world laughs with you - "Cry" and you just wet your face...

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  • Gold FFM

Cheers Justin! Renault should be much the same, I guess.

Hadn't really considered turbo for removal - hmmmmm. Actually, in Bibs's case, it'd be better not to put it back on. :)

British Fart to Florida, Nude to New York, Dunce to Denmark, Numpty to Newfoundland.  And Shitfaced Silly Sod to Sweden.

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I did my self when I the gearbox out !

Electrics disconnect inc starter motor

exhaust inc turbo off

drive shafts off

clutch slave cylinder out

gear change cable/linkage out

rear cross bracing out

bellhousing bolts out

also 2 greabox mount bolts out

ang pull back the gearbox as much you can !

I also used an engine crane to lift the gearbox

At the time it was easy to pull gearbox out

but when I tried to put it back and connect the belhousing to the engine was

very hard and one of the reason was the Turbo was so closed between belhousing etc...

I hope it will help !

Y.Hotta

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Yeah the turbo off option just gives you so much more room.

it is a bit of a sod to try and manouvre around it when for a few bolts, you can just remove the turbo and free up some space.

otherwise it is like trying to get a marshmallow in a money box

Justin

"Laugh" and the world laughs with you - "Cry" and you just wet your face...

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I just did a clutch job with one of our guys on an SE this past weekend. It took us about 1 hr 45 minutes to get the tranny out from the time he pulled into the garage until it was on the floor.

The procedures listed above cover it pretty well although obviously one of the first things you need to do is remove the boot floor. Also, I do not unhook the electric to the starter, just disconnect the battery. When you pull the 2 bell housing (clutch housing) bolts that hold the starter in place just slide it out of the way. It saves time having to hook the electrical back up later.

Not sure about others but on SE, S4s and V8's I've done, we don't pull the turbos. There is plenty of room to go around it. Just slide the tranny back, lift up the rear and rotate it around the turbo. Put it back in the same way. Pulling the turbo may only be 4 studs/bolts to remove but they can be very stubborn due to the heat and corrosion and 2 of the nuts are pretty hard to get to. You also should probably replace the metal gasket if you take it off. My theory is to keep it as simple as possible and try not to open any cans of worms you don't have to. :)

A hoist is nice but not necessary. One strong guy can lift it out easy enough and it's very easy with two people. Just put a thick folded blanket on the rear transom to rest it on after you bring it up and not damage the fiberglass.

For the exhaust, disconnect the muffler pipe at the cat, and remove the whole muffler assembly and bracket in one piece. There are 4 short bolts/nuts at the rear of the tranny and 2 long bolts in each side.

Bleeding the hydraulics afterward can be a pain, but if you're lucky and the slave and master cylinders are in good shape with no air in the lines and you don't disconnect any lines then you may not have to bleed at all. I would still recommend flushing and bleeding anyway to get fresh fluid in the system.

Check the flywheel and have it properly ground if it shows signs of heat checking or bluing.

Once I replace the release bearing and re-attach the fork, I like to pull the fork forward and zip-tie it to the slave mounting hole on the clutch housing to hold it in place until the tranny is back in the car. It's only held in place by a fairly flimsy spring clip.

Cheers,

Edited by lotus4s
  • Like 1

1995 S4s

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  • Gold FFM

I have photos of you that would suggest otherwise. And a certain Black Beast continues to repose on my drive...

British Fart to Florida, Nude to New York, Dunce to Denmark, Numpty to Newfoundland.  And Shitfaced Silly Sod to Sweden.

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  • Gold FFM

Right - happy now!

Dropped lower arms inboard, disconnected driveshafts, left turbo in place. Didn't use a hoist - just lots of grunt. Found it pretty easy to stand in the bay and lift the box back, rotate clockwise and gently past the turbo. Getting the box back on was easier than I expected.

Bibs's pressure plate was a mess of broken metal - pics may follow tomorrow.

AND - update for Mr. Clements: finally found out what's been melting his cables. The turbo was incredibly loose and had been jetting superheated gas directly at the gear cables. This should no longer be a problem. Reckon it might be a bit quieter now - and maybe faster! God help us all.

British Fart to Florida, Nude to New York, Dunce to Denmark, Numpty to Newfoundland.  And Shitfaced Silly Sod to Sweden.

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Hey, would be interested to see the remains of your clutch as seems mine just let go pretty spectacularly way today, while grabbing 2nd away from some lights suddenly total loss of drive, but no gearbox grinding sounds and engine revving freely so now I have a sort of tip tronic shift without the go, clutch permanently disengaged, I think maybe the friction plates are no longer joined to the inner splines but have never seen this happen before...

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Sparky has pics of the pressure plate. 1 of the springs was incomplete and a shard remaining, 1 was fractured and about to fail and 1 fine. The friction plate was worn, just reached the rivets on one side however the flywheel was in good order, no problems with that.

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Hi Bibs

Ok here is my step by step guide.

1. Ring Sporto (Cos)

2. Book car into garage on Friday and drop off

3. Spend Friday night out on Beers with Waynef and other SLEG members

4. Wake up with mild hangover and get good old English fry up from cafe in Salisbury

5. Part with approx

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