snowrx

Here's what I did on my 4 cylinder Esprit. http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f164/910-megasquirt-339834/ I assume that an install for a V8 would be easier, due to more of the sensors already being fitted. The well moderated Megasquirt forums are full of help, and the MS3 and up ECU's can do whatever you'd like them to do. That said, I echo the above advice to find an OEM ECU if you can. It's relatively easy to road tune with a wide-band O2 meter to get the beast running and the cruise and power settings right, but the devil is in the details like cold starting and boost & idle control. Tuning can become another time-consuming hobby/burden by itself. If you enjoy DIY and have the tools & your labor is free you can't beat the price and satisfaction, but otherwise don't consider it unless the parts are truly unavailable and you have acce$$ to an experienced tuner/installer.

2011 really stretching my memory, but I just looked for a cheap ($36USD) generic pair on Ebay with heated glass. Pulled the motor and heater, and trimmed the glass mounting plate to fit the Esprit glass. Don't recall exactly if I fabricated a plate to mount the new motor in the mirror shell or modified what was there. You'll need a different switch to control it, I pulled a GM item at a junkyard. I did not take enough pictures...... An Ebay search for "power mirrors + (pair, right and left,left and right)" should bring up a few thousand options.

Anything you wished you had done to prep for the LDA? I'm booked for May in the 220

I removed the front glass with gentle heating from a hot air gun to soften the tape behind and careful prying away. But when I saw the chunky way the thing worked, I did not bother with repair, I just swapped in the guts of a cheap pair of Ebay mirrors with proper motor drives and added a corresponding switch to run them.

Just was wondering if there was a prohibition on knives in general or carrying a belt case in specific. This is what I usually carry, v. useful for everyday repairs. Hex bits to scissors, it covers most needs and I'd hate to lose it. I have a smaller version I could carry instead, probably just keep it in my bag in case someone in authority thinks I'll whip it out of the belt sheath, use both hands to unfold to the appropriate blade and weaponize it. Would take a lot of training to get a Bat to attack in daylight, they're pretty docile. But they do lead to a rabid panic on contact, if someone in the medical field thinks you've so much as seen one, it's of to get the series of shots. Maybe one could just hurl it at the offender, followed by warning literature?

Thanks JayEmm, I'm planning for a trip to the UK and wondering what to leave at home. I feel naked without some sort of tools about my person

Red with envy.....

What sort of "knife control" does the UK practice? I'm accustomed to wearing a multi-tool (longest blade ~75mm) on my belt here in the USA, will I have issues with the authorities as I travel or enter public areas in the UK? I obviously can't take it onto an airplane or into a courtroom here, but otherwise it's not an issue in the western US.

Settled on the Old Thorn Barn as I can book it online from here and you can't get any closer to the works. Paged through the TLF Event calendar to see if there were any Lotus goings on while I'm there, but it seems to be just a birthday registry...

I was afraid to say that, so soon after the top end went together.

Fingers crossed here for a good result for you. That small a change should not result in valve/piston contact.

+1 on Jacques review. I fitted a Stevens manifold from the first group buy onto my G-car. I wanted to drop the external waste gate complexity and upgrade to a newer style EFR turbo anyway. -Some exhaust bends required to align the Stevens turbo outlet location with the G-car fender exit, but doable. -I had no problems with initial fit to the head studs, and it's relatively easy to access the nuts from above, even when using 13mm nuts, with a universal joint socket. A bit of a chore to remove the right front turbo stud nut as it's close to the engine which limits access. Getting the head off is now much easier. -My (early) manifold is also pretty close to the frame tubes, I wrapped them with some radiant barrier, and so far no problem. -Obviously pretty, it hung on my garage wall for a while before I had a chance to install it. Not as pretty as the new version with the fancy flanges though. -Compared to a G-car's assemblage of cast iron, it's incredibly light. - I don't notice any extra noise. -Can't really address performance gains, as I changed the turbo at the same time, but turbo response is quick. -I'm glad to see packing has improved, mine was shipped loose in a box and arrived here in the states with hardware missing out the holes poked in the box by the manifold. So simpler, lighter, faster and more serviceable; I'll admit I clutched my wallet pretty hard before I bit the bullet on the Alunox, but in retrospect I'm happy I did. Still a wonder to me that the Chinese can make a Stainless manifold for my WRX for 1/16th the price.....

His WRX is listed first. But does the Evora have a bumper sticker that says "My other car is a WRX"?

Price and availability of the Valvoline VR-1 20W/50 oil are good, and it has the zinc compounds that are supposed to be good for our tappets.

Like the boost vs. air temp feature, that might help with cold weather excess boost upsetting summer tune.

Crank sensor is a different story- I tucked mine away behind the pulley.

VE table - just wide band auto tuning on the road so far, which is why I'm curious to see dyno results on a 910.

Pretty colors- My 910 with stock cams, head, 8:1 pistons, Aluminox into BW EFR6258 turbo, green dot pulleys, custom intake manifold, sequential injection. Big numbers are where I tried to replicate OEM vacuum advance on top of mechanical curve. Probably could use some more boost retard as well, but staying with low boost numbers <#10 right now.

Careful with Scotchbrite pads, they shed raw abrasive powder that can be very hard to contain or clean out of areas you really don't want it in. I would avoid it on anything that's not going to get tanked or otherwise thoroughly cleaned, away from the open motor parts. I'm soon to follow in your footsteps, as my #4 is leaking into the coolant jackets..... As to valve shims, they're not too expensive and are in stock at JAE/the usual Lotus specialists. I think they're used in tr-7, imp, saab 99, Lotus, cosworth, Jaguar xk-6, climax, hesketh etc. , so you're only going to find them in stock at a specialist or an obscure Euro auto shop. I've built a shim box from random Ebay sales, but they don't show up often in quantity. There's a few now https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=shims+(twin+cam%2Ctr7%2Cimp%2Csaab+99%2Clotus%2Ccosworth%2Cxk-6%2Ccilmax%2Chesketh)+-(gearbox%2Cpad) Tim Engel's spreadsheet is very helpful for setting up the valve lash, and might help sort your assorted shims, although you will want a micrometer to measure shims and some patience. Valve Shim Worksheet - Format, Metric & Sealant E97-W98.xls

Guess I'll bump this thread, I'm putting together a visit to Lotus 5/2018 from the states- Any updates on local accommodations, or suggestions for other gearhead / technophile stops in the area or the UK in general?

Curious as to what your spark and VE maps ended up looking like after the Dyno tuned them. I'm running a Megasquirt MS3X with a SWAG ignition map generated from distributor numbers now, and would love to have better spark advance info.

My understanding is that the dimples on the end of the studs indicate the later "upgraded" OEM Lotus studs (not bolts). But many recommend the ARP studs as an upgrade. Given the open deck design, anything you can do to improve the head joint is a bonus. I've used gaskets from JAE and Kemp and overheat has killed both. I'm curious as to the current "best" gasket option.....

For those that don't have the CC pump option, another way is to mount the sensor behind the exhaust cam pulley using the existing cam belt snubber holes and put a steel pin in the pulley. Timing for the cam sensor should not be critical, it's just letting the ECU know where in the four-stroke cycle the engine is.

Guess I ignored this long enough- I've a 1985 British Racing Green Federal Turbo Esprit with a Tan interior, SCCFC20A5FHF60663, garaged in Northern Idaho, USA PO-Robert Ewens in Washingtin State

LED's don't play well with standard reostat (potentimeter) dimmers, they tend to go from full bright to off with a small motion of the knob. But you can use cheap PWM dimmers for full range brightness control. http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f164/pwm-dimmer-g-car-dash-led-s-356713/ Some of the Smiths gauges have bulbs that are harder to find bright LED bulbs for: http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f164/brighter-bulbs-g-car-smiths-speedo-tach-356705/ Just general S3/Esprit Turbo info, not sure exactly what the S1 uses.