snowrx

I did the upper joint last week, a PITA moving back and forth repeatedly from deepest Lotus position to wheel well removing and replacing the joint through the body shell. I marked the old upper and lower joints with a paint mark, then transferred the mark to the new part to maintain the 30 degree phasing of the joints. Ironically, whilst I was locking off various halves of the u-joints with pliers trying to diagnose where the play was worst, I did indeed get my steering wheel to slip on its hub!

Going for a Modern amount of hoses and wires myself, but not up to Focus standards yet-

An elusive two slot hood on E323 HEH

Jenna had a US 83, there's some flasher discussion in here. You might enjoy the whole thread- https://www.lotustalk.com/threads/penelope-pitstop-resurrection.335777/post-4512994 Her 83 had 5,my 85 had 4 pin relays. Having gone to LED's, I'm now using a reversed three pin electronic flasher.

I wasn't aware Orange was an interior color option😒

Yes, my PO kept the tool kit for his car...

How green do you want to be?

Wish my steering wheel play was so simple, I have to rule out the upper joint before I tear into the rack....

I'll monger some doom-

This has to be from Fabian's closet- from

Not the early G-car, but this is the Lotus A42 BRG metallic color on a Turbo for reference. I don't seem to take pics of clean cars in the sun...

@ GTK Once you start blasting in a cabinet, it's only a matter of time before you're outside blasting the big bits with sand going everywhere! You can blast the black right out and clean up later. I need to look into these brakes for the post 85 car, for when my rear calipers finally go...

OMG,So clean inside! There are a few chronicles of headlight woes on here and Lotustalk, but they tend to be buried in restoration threads.

"the relay unplugged"? I would pull both the headlight motor relays before I dove into the harness, They're interconnected and if someone put the dual contact style relay in either socket I think the circuit path would short to ground. I think the adjacent high and low beam relays are dual contact rather than changeover.

Relays are in the left hand front corner of the frunk, kind of stuffed into the fender well. Don't trust my labeling, check the wire colors on yours. There's two types of relays, for different functions, changeover and dual output so replace like with like.

More?

I highly doubt the fluid could carry enough current to affect the components. Check/clean/swap the headlight lift circuit relays as an easy first diagnostic for headlight weirdness.

If it's been rumored to have over heated and is low on coolant, you may want to do a coolant combustion gas check to see if the head gasket is OK. Especially if it loses coolant after topping off. Custom alloy header tanks are available to replace the crusty rusty, I just adapted a generic ebay item with larger capacity.

25 cent UJ spacers are the cheapest parts on the car, whatever the exchange rate!

Salt Lake City UT to Nordman ID, coming home from a Lotus meet in the Esprit Turbo. Google maps says it's 770miles/1232 Km and 12 hours, but it was longer, droning on at 80+mph across Montana. There were gas stops, and lunch of course!

I made a plate to replicate the footprint of the solenoid frame, so I could mount the internals from an inexpensive pair of EBay mirrors in place of the solenoids. This required a different joystick switch, but the action is much better. I don't have pics of the shell bracket or the mirror backing plate attachment, but here's what the motor unit looked like;

Postage: "Will post to United States" Hmmm...

I could see the gauge (@engine) sender being at 90 while the Otter switch at the other end of the car is 75, at least while it warmed up before the thermostat opened. If your IR thermometer is giving weird readings on a shiny cooling pipe you might find a cheap Digital voltmeter that comes with a K-type thermocouple that you could touch to the pipe. What temp is the otter supposed to close on? My Federal '85 has the Otter switch in the tube that goes over the alternator, maybe to respond just a bit sooner? I would guess the thermal trip is a bi-metallic strip heated by the current running through it, so running significantly more current than the fans normally draw should open the switch, and the button manually resets it, perhaps after it cools. If you have an ammeter and some 12VDC loads, you might be able to get a sense of where (or if!) it trips.

My second batch manifold looks the same, with the oval tube transition. Mr D's picture just looked like a shorter transition than I thought the CNC flange had. Looks like ongoing revisions, as the initial flange looks different.

I can see someone wanting to disable the Intake flap, but it would seem to me some vacuum advance would be nice for off throttle. I don't know how the balance between the Boost retard and the Vacuum advance would work out. Not to say the system was necessarily optimized for other than passing emissions requirements on a Federal car.