fjmuurling

In the end I "closed" the problem. The small ridge on the outer cirumfence of the thermostat sits a bit higher than the flange of the waterpump. The gasket material I used after making a template in my PCB software is made by Elring. I used ther Abil N gasket material with a thickness of 1 mm. The compressibilty of this material is bit higher than standard thin material. As for the template I used the following dimensions of the holes / distances: Mounting Holes Dia: 8.5 mm Thermostat Hole Dia: 52 mm Hole Center to center distance: 36.5 mm (all three holes are inline) The thermostat hole ended up about 0.5 mm smaller when I made the gasket. I didn't have a bigger piece of brass round stock which I used to cut along with a sharp knife.

The "learning" of the ECU willl not be affected if you hook up the ALDL inteface with Freescan/Espritmon for monitoring. Just don't reset anything with the software (BLM/Error Codes/Idle Air Controller). Freescan or Espritmon are great tools for showing what is going on in the ECU / Car.

Thanks Derek, I guess my problem is the small ridge on the outer cirumfence of the thermostat, this needs to be compensated for by the gasket, a thicker gasket sounds much better.

The thermostat housing of my SE keeps leaking between the flanges where the gasket is. Made new gaskets several times but no luck, even used Permatex® Aviation Form-A-Gasket® No. 3 Sealant as a gasket dressing but no luck. So my guess my gasket material (Frenzelit novapress Multi II, 0.5 mm thick) is not the right one. The flanges of the waterpump and the elbow are straight, the thermostat is a new Lotus one Any tips / trics for "closing" this problem are welcome. Maybe some suggestions of what kind of gasket material to use.

I once had the same problem. The latching mechanism was resting on the Striker Plate when the door was closed. This was caused by a sagging door (just a bit). Realignment of the door and adjusting the striker plate solved the problem. DON'T remove the 2 bolts (only loosen) of the Striker Plate at same time, otherwise you are out for an almost impossible fishing expedition of the Tapping plate which falls between the firewall/bulhead and a fueltank.

use the rim (size) for the measurements and the calculations, and not the tires.

What paint did you use for the inside wheelarches?

About the acid remark above is to prevent possible corrosion effects on the aluminium etc. The proper bathroom sealants are acid free.

Sikaflex 291i is good stuff. (polyurethane based). As a side note I would be carefull with using silicone as they can contain acetic acid (not all of them).

For me it is the other way around, tried MIG once (a long time ago) and never got the hang of it. Bought a JASIC tig welder AC/DC 2 years ago. It is a good welder (me not, need more practice), the only thing which was not to my liking was the supplied torch, replaced it by a CK which is way better.

Why not go for a TIG welder ?

Just an idea.

Frequency measuring should be done 30 BTDC with the timing dots on the inlet and exhaust cam pulleys pointing to each other, but not aligned. The chargecooler pump impeller will be damaged if you turn the engine backwards. Even if you turn the engine a little bit backwards (tempting to do when you overshoot the 30BTDC mark) will alter the tension of the belt between the pulleys and screwing up your measurements. See the attached sheet from Lotus. (substitute Clavis Gauge for Phone app, Tuneit! etc). sn_ef_p18a.pdf

The QDM's switch the outputs to ground when activated. Search for a TPIC2404 datasheet.

If I'm right the pin for the rad fan relay is A9 and not A19.

Gap fill is the abibility of the sealant to fill gaps when the two mating surfaces are not perfect. For instance if there is a scratch on one of them. When bolting down the camcarriers with the head on the workbench the head will distort (differently than when the head is on the engineblock) causing the clearances to alter when putting everything back on the engineblock.

Same here for the Permabond A136, it does not add "thickness".

G (Geber) - connection to the pressure gauge. WK (Warnkontakt) - connection for the pressure switch the housing is the common ground connection for the unit, so don't use teflon tape when fitting.

In Ian's picture the black thing on the left is the oil temperature sensor. The middle is the oilfeed hose to the turbo. The semi gold coloured thing on the right is the oilpressure sender with the lowpressure switch.

Just a pic of the oil? No pics of the gearbox internals? 😱😮

Remember that the MAP calculations in Freescan are not correct. Freescan uses the following conversion for calculating/displaying the MAP pressure in bar: MAP (bar) = (MAPADC - 130)/100 + 1 The right conversion is: MAP (kPa) = (MAPADC / 255 + 0.04) / 0.005 1 bar = 100 kPa MAPADC = MAP sensor AD counts

Looks like an EPROM to me, so don't remove the sticker unless you want to corrupt / erase the data contained in the chip. The only way to tell what version it is is to hook up ESPRITMON / Freescan en read the PROM ID. If it is an unknown ID than the whole content needs to be "dumped". ESPRITMON can do that as well as a suitable Programmer. The dumped contents than needs to be reviewed / analysed. (time consuming job).

Like Filip said Calculator set to degrees.

It was not me, I found it a long time ago on TLF. Will look next week when I'm home if I have more.

If you keep the toe in angle (in deg) the same and increase the wheel (rim) size the measurement in mm will be greater. SIN (0.3609°) * 17 * 25.4 = 2.7mm. etc.