fjmuurling

Some creative bending of a couple of paperclip[s (1 for each brush) will make a nice little hook for keeping the brushes in the retracted position when putting it all together. Upon closing of the housing turn the hooks 90 deg and pull them out. And a pair of extra hands is also Handy.

That must be a record only 8 minutes for fixing. 😃

Hi Bibs, renewed my subscription yesterday and I was back in the green. But today I'm black again?. Can you fix / check it? Used the Manage subscription page and payed by PayPal. Many thanks Freek

AFAIK the error 26 codes in Freescan are correct but the descriptions are wrong.

I have one of these, it has the right connector for use with the shraeder valve on the FPR of a 4 cylinder SE. https://www.datona.nl/brandstof-injectiedruk-tester.html

www.vansten.nl

I would also be happy to buy a set.

I agree with you Travis, things will be fine. I knew you used them that's why I have them. The 0.75 ohms decrease in resistance increases the max current with 0.1 A at 16V, which will still be ok. But in general if one fits injectors with a different resistance one should think about modifying the ballast resistor. That said I still have to do mine. (haven't driven the car much with these injectors and most certainly not with the engine the "sweet spot" when the secondairies come to life. ("nice speed limits in Holland")

I have these as secondary injectors: GM Chevrolet 7.4L J GAS, Direct Replacement OEM INJECTORS Bosch-Remanufactured Part Number: 0280150556: Made in USA, Chevy GMC 7.4 454 (J) https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/lucas-01d062b-74l-j-code/ They are about 14.5 ohms, so you will still need to modify the ballast resistor

If you are going to use the RC SL4-205 injectors with a lower impedance you have to modify the ballast resistor which is in series with the secondary injectors. This resistor limits the current so the quad driver in de ECU doesn't get fried. The RC ones are about 3.5 ohms less in impedance as the original ones. Because the secondary injectors are parallel connected the total impedance is 1.75 ohms less compared to the original setup. As the original ballast resistor is 3.3 ohms (10 watts AFAIK) it needs to be replaced with a 5 ohm one. Just buy a couple of 4.7 ohm and 5.6 ohm (normal tolerance is 10%) ones and test/measure them and use the closest match. Another solution is to buy 2 10 ohm ones and mount them in parallel. (if there is enough room in the ballast resistor housing).

AFAIK the EBPV and TJ solenois are controlled by a relay which in turn is controlled by the ECU. Only if the EBPV/TJ changeover relay is removed (or broken coil inside the relay) will it throw a code 26 error. At least this is how it is on my SE

The Resitor is there in order to Limit the max. current so the Quad driver inside the ECU doesn't get fried.

Went to a business meeting. made me smile. (and also lots of other people).

Don't fotget to do the aircon hoses when converting to R134a and the expansionvalve.

The split spacer is there in order to avoid that the two lugs of the hub carrier are not pulled toghether when tightening the lower link stud.

What is the proper routing of the 2 AC hoses connected to the AC compressor, do they run through the triangular part of the chassis frame or under the chassis frame. Maybe someone has a pic of the proper routing?

When are you fitting side skirts as done on the Lotus 79 ? 😉

The ring connector is / was used as a ground connection to the metal mounting brackets of the original fans. (the original fans had a metal housing). The spal fans are made of "plastic" omitting the use of the extra (in case of failure) ground connection. So you can omit the extra ring / ground connection. I have to do the same on may new radiator / spal fan combination.

Drill a couple of small holes in the nut and or use a nut spliiter. Most of the times a nut splitter doesn't split / break the nut but in those case the nut will be stretched (making the inside of the nut bigger).

A bad O2 sensor is also possible. Post some freescan logs you made. I'm sure someone is willing to look into those. They contain much more data besisides the mentioned IAC/ BLM.

this is what I found on the Racebolt website. https://raceboltuk.com/technical-information/ Give them a call maybe they have an answer. Some more info. https://www.ti64.com/v/vspfiles/assets/docs/fasteners 101.pdf

How about going the titanium route? https://www.rsrmoto.com/m7-titanium-bolts-taper-socket-cap-allen-head-10-15-20-25-30-35-40-45-50-mm/ located in the UK

The SKF Tensioner bearing number is VKM 14300

Something like this:

Have you checked the sender unit in the tank? If it is similar to the one in an SE it is easy to check. Disconnect the the plug on top of the tank and use a potentiometer (variable resistor) connected to the connector. Observe the gauge as you turn the potentiometer (vary the resistance). If the gauge works it is the sender at fault. Use a potentiometer in the 200 Ohm range (I might be wrong) (a standard value is 270 Ohms).