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sanj

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Everything posted by sanj

  1. The crank trigger is mounted to the top of the bellhousing on the transaxle, just above the flywheel. Remove the bolt pointed to by the arrow, the trigger lifts straight up. It is long and tubular underneath, and there is an o-ring on it, so it tends to be very stiff to pull out. They are easy to break when removing/installing the trans, other than that they are generally reliable.
  2. I designed the second one (and the one being sold by LEW, thank you). It looks like the first one is just a redraw of mine as well. Try changing the second resistor (just to the right of the word DATA) from 10K ohm to 1K ohm. There's not a lot to the circuit, so the only other external possibilities (barring an error in construction) are the transistors or the laptop. Cheers, Sanj
  3. I can confirm the following for sure: Oil filter: K&N HP2004 Mobil 1 M1-204 Headlamp motor : Corvette C4 Fiero is very likely, as the rebuild parts are the same.
  4. Thanks for the plug. A version of the website without the annoying pop-up ads is here. I can install a socket in the memcal to permit easy chip swaps in the future.
  5. Thanks Travis. My 12mm bolt was definitely stock, it's a fine pitch with the same flanged nut as the 10mm nut. I'll blame Renault...
  6. Where did you find the torque spec for the M12 bolt/nut? My '90 has one M10 through-bolt and one M12, but I could never find a torque spec for the larger bolt..
  7. Is it an '89 chargecooled? If so, they are all the same ECU. The '89 non-chargecooled is completely different.
  8. Terminal B8 on ECM connector J2 should be the speed pulse output from the ECM. There may already be a wire going to the dash, Orange with a Brown stripe.
  9. The simplest way is to find a standard nut with the same thread size, use it to tighten the tapered stud, then remove the nut and replace it with the correct nyloc one.
  10. That is the correct oil pump, I just received one from them.
  11. Yokohama AVS Sport are available in the correct sizes in the US.
  12. Is anyone else having trouble viewing attachments from this forum? Every time I click on one a window full of gibberish opens up. I've tried IE and Firefox.
  13. The clutch friction disc is the same part for the SE, S4, S4s, and Sport 300, so there is no possibility of it being a different diameter. The pressure plate is different, but the diameter is not relevant.
  14. I believe that John at WC Engineering has t-hoses in stock. http://www.wcengineering.com.
  15. An important note to anyone attempting this method -- you must turn the engine to 30deg BTDC each time you are to take a measurement, or the frequency reading will be completely wrong! Each time you make a tension adjustment you must rotate the engine at least twice before taking a new reading. TuneIt! works great, I've even used it with cheapo PC mikes. Make sure you turn the stereo off, though!
  16. Here's a good program for this purpose: TuneIt
  17. It is a different part number, which would indicate that they are indeed likely different.
  18. There are three separate fuses, however.
  19. Not yet, but I'm soon going to, as the motor in my '90 SE seems to be in itd death throes.
  20. There is, on the radiator itself. Access is through the left side wheelwell.
  21. The engine will need to be hot to complete the process, but you can start while it is warming up. The header tank cap should be off, as you will need to add coolant as you proceed. Start the engine, remove the front wheelwell bleed plug, and replace when only coolant flows out, no air. Once this is done, bleed from the engine bay coolant pipe. Be very careful not to drop the screw (you will need to remove it) or burn yourself. You may need to rev the engine up periodically to 'burp' it.
  22. Hey Steve, what are you supposed to do if the nip is low?
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