sanj

Incorrect. All of the switches listed in the PDF have the same rating with respect to proof and burst pressure, 6000 and 9000 psi respectively. Look at the first page: Specifications Switch SPST; SPDT Repeatability See Table 1 Wetted Parts Diaphragm Nitrile (optional EPDM, Viton® or Neoprene) Fitting Zinc-Plated Steel (Optional 316 SS) Electrical Termination DIN 43650A IP65; Spade Terminals IP00; Flying Leads IP65; Conduit with Flying Leads IP65; IP option IP66 Proof Pressure 6000 psi (414 bar) Burst Pressure 9000 psi (600 bar) Approvals CE, UL Approved units available Weight, Approximate 0.4 lbs. (0.15 kg)

Not to speak to its suitability in any other way, but the switch he referenced is proofed to 6000psi regardless of sensing range, with a burst limit of 9000psi. The range merely determines the available switching point.

Dave, Will Alunox be sending out the twin upgrade automatically to those of us that made a prior purchase, or so we have to request them? Thanks.

Sorry if I missed it, but which part of the support broke, and where?

Dave, Will this be sent to all previous purchasers?

Hi Mike, Have you checked the engine temp via FreeScan or EspritMon? Does it agree with the gauge? The ECM uses the reading from the temperature sensor located under the intake manifold to control the fan switching points, among other parameters. The gauge has its own sensor, which is not seen by the ECM.

Ah, I misunderstood, then. Cheers!

How-to pictorial: http://home.earthlink.net/~turboesprit/headlight/index.html Parts from http://rodneydickman.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=50

50 Nm, 37 lb-ft

You need to remove the jigsaw puzzle that is the heat shields, then the big nut holding the motor mount to the chassis. Make note of the orientation and position of the large buffer washers. No need to remove the legs from the block. The LH mounting bolt will stay with the leg.

The LM2940T-10.0 only drops 0.5V, or 0.2V at lower currents.

I'm in the USA, I'll PM you with details.

I'll give you as many as you want, if you give me the proper tool to remove them.

That hex head is there to clear the shift cable, and is fitted that way from the factory.

I replaced mine with a windshield mounted mirror from an Evora/Exige, much better now.

Also, remove the vacuum hose from the top of the fuel pressure regulator, and turn the key on without cranking. If any fuel comes out of the port where the hose was attached, the regulator is bad. Note that this is not the only symptom of a bad regulator.

One spade is smaller than the other, one would hope that the wire terminals are similarly sized. Why Lotus decided to use brown-white and white-brown is a mystery.

The thermocouple is part of the water valve A075P6060F. It is also used on Volvo 240 and 260 cars from 1975-1991. If it is broken you would definitely have heating issues.

Mine runs all the way forward, i.e.the forward edge of the belt is almost even with the edge of the pulley. As long as it's not off the edge and/or you are not seeing evidence of edge wear I wouldn't worry.

The Sport 300 (and '92-'93 SE's) had different valences than the earlier SE, with the lip area molded larger to accommodate the rubber spoiler. The pre-'92 cars do not have a sufficient recess to accommodate the lip without modification.

PM sent.

Yes, otherwise the needle will not register any speed.

Be aware that you need tor drive the speedo in reverse if using a drill.

OK, I was thrown off by the photo, which looks nothing like your rotor. A check at a couple of other sites seems to back you up.

Upon further examination, I think the GD323 is the rear rotor for a Celica. You need the front.