Esprit2

Close, but no cigar. I’m a participant from the Facebook Group mentioned above, and I posted the following over there. Sorry, but this gets long... The original halfshafts had a 1.50” radius at one end, and a 0.75” radius at the other end. The later halfshafts had 0.75” radius at both ends. But that alone is not really the problem. Inspect the “hollows” created by the radiused fillets, and you’ll see that ONE per end of the halfshaft is “slightly” deeper than the other three. Not by a lot, but noticeable if you’re looking for it. Subtle. When assembling the halfshaft/ installing new U-joints, it is critically important that you align the end of the halfshaft with it’s mating yoke (ie, “flange yoke” on the inner end, and “stub axle yoke” on the outer end) such that the two “deeper” hollows (one per part) align with one another. Together, the two hollows create enough space between the two yokes (one deep hollow on the halfshaft, and one on the mating yoke) for the grease fitting on the U-joint. In addition, you need to replace the stubby grease fitting that comes on a new U-joint with a tall, slender one that gets the fittings “head” and hex-drive up, out of the crotch of the U-joint. OR… your alternative is to use a U-joint that doesn’t have a grease fitting (lubed for life). IMHO, the best of that category is the Hardy Spicer. Or, similar but different, use a U-joint that has the grease fitting in one of the four cross-bar’s end cap. Either way, there’s no grease fitting down in the crotch of the U-joint!! All U-joints (of which I’m aware) that come with a grease fitting, come with a short, minimalist fitting that sits right down in the crotch of the U-joint. Down there, as the halfshaft flexes, the “hollow” closes up until it pinches the grease fitting… “going solid” and making a “thump”. Loading up the car with weight (bodies and junk in the trunk) causes the suspension to sag, flexing the U-Joints, until finally the grease fitting gets pinched, and goes “thump”. Carefully aligning the two slightly deeper “hollows” during assembly, and installing a tall, slender grease fitting to get the “head” up out of the U-joint’s crotch will usually eliminate the possibility of binding on the fitting, and causing a thump. But it’s up to you to be aware, and very careful during assembly. Or, as noted above, use a U-joint that has no grease fitting. Well, there is another option. Replace the grease fitting with a small, Allen drive plug. Either a grub screw (it all threads into the hole) or a ‘cheese head’ machine screw short enough that the threaded body is all inside the U-joint, and only the small Allen ‘cheese head’ is sitting on the surface of the joint’s crotch… way down in the gap. In either case, greasing the U-joints will then involve removing the plugs and installing the grease fittings. Then when you’re done, removing the fittings and replacing the plugs. All that is easier with the back of the car up on stands, the rear suspension at full droop, and the halfshaft rotated until the “open” side of the flexed joint is facing up. That’s the biggest hole you’ll ever have in which to work. Regards, Tim Engel

Ian, Both the black and grey switches appear to be quite repeatable within their respective ranges. It's just that until now we haven't had spec values for the grey switch. TSB-18, "Replacement of ABS hydraulic pressure switch", was full of information like the size of the socket to use and warranty charges, but gave no pressure specs for the new grey switch. And the subsequent Service Notes thru the 1993-97 edition were never updated. They continued to show the higher pressure specs for the original black switch despite TSB-18 talking about lowering the operating pressures. Well, now we've measured a small sampling of switches, and while the quantity may not be statistically meaningful, the results are consistant. 1800-1900 psi on, 2300-2350 psi off, and 15-00-1600 psi warning light. If you have a grey switch that has been delivering 'low' pressures compared to the Service Notes' specs, well perhaps it was supposed to. It's also interesting to me that the new alternative switches, like the Bosch unit from Ralf, are running on the old, high pressures from before TSB-18. *~*~*~*~* TSB-18 TITLE: Replacement of ABS hydraulic pressure switch. REASON: To lower system pressure and reduce brake pedal stiction. The new pressure switch, fitted into the pump/accumulator housing, has-been recalibrated in order to lower system pressure, and reduce seal friction in the booster/master cylinder assembly. One effect of this change is to lessen any tendency of the brake pedal to 'stick' and not fully return to its up stop. ACTION: At the next opportunity on all ABS equipped ('91 M.Y. onwards) Esprit models prior to the following change point: VIN: N 0236 (Domestic / Export '92 M.Y.) - replace the ABS hydraulic pressure switch as detailed below. PARTS REQUIRED: Pressure Switch (inc. "O' ring, B082J6137S, 1 off) Socket Spanner, 39mm (1 ½“) long reach, TOOOTl238F, 1 off DOT 4 Brake Fluid - as required Note that the original switch (A082J6I37S) has a black plastic body, and the new 'B' version a grey body. The ABS pump/accumulator assembly is mounted at the driver's side front corner of the front luggage compartment beneath a protective-plastic cover. The pressure switch is fitted into the housing beneath the accumulator. Depressurize the accumulator by turning off the ignition and FIRMLY applying the brake pedal up to 44 times. A noticeable change in pedal feel (to a hard pedal) will occur when the accumulator is completely discharged. Before unscrewing the pressure switch from the pump/accumulator endplate, have the new switch ready and prepared for fitment to avoid the necessity to bleed the hydraulic system. Lubricate the 'O' ring supplied with the new pressure switch using DOT 4 brake fluid and fit the ring onto the new switch. On LHD cars, it may be necessary to release the relay bracket fixings for sufficient access to the pressure switch in the pump/ accumulator endplate. Disconnect and unscrew the pressure switch from the endplate extension beneath the accumulator using a long reach 39mm ( 1 1/2") socket - available under TOOOTl238F. Use a shop towel to absorb any escaping fluid. Screw the new switch and 'O' ring into the endplate and torque tighten to 20 - 27 Nm (15 - 20 lb-ft). Connect the harness plug to the switch. CHARGES 0.5 hr/car. Warranty claims marked S/B 1993/21 Class 2 should be submitted together with the displaced switch. An updated Service Notes section JF.13 (ABS Hydraulic diagnosis) will be issued in due course. End TSB-18 Tim

Glyn, The key belt features would be PowerGrip HTD and 133 teeth. I've measured the width of HTD belts for the Lotus engines as supplied by various independent parts suppliers

Ian, I'm in the USA and have never had the opportunity to work on a DOM spec Esprit (UK). Especially a late carb model like yours since US Esprits ran with Bosch fuel injection beginning in 1986. So I'm going to approach this like I would a US carb car (through 1985) and you'll have to see if you can find any parallels in your car. The problem could be related to something with the carbs themselves

Ian, Maybe. It's hard to judge from a distance what's going on with a set of carbs. There's nothing like a little "laying on of the hands" to get a feel for what's going on. Without that, I'm guessing... Myself, I think the engine is running lean overall. The fact that the engine runs better with the choke on a little supports that theory. Pre-1988 DOM / ROW DHLA45 carb turbos had the idle circuit jetted pretty lean. Then from 1988 onward they leaned it out some more. It must have been in response to tighter emissions requirements since I don't think the engine was any happier for the change. Esprit Carb Turbo ....... 1988 onward ... pre-1988 ........ 1983-86 Market ....................... DOM / ROW .... DOM / ROW ... US-Federal Carb Type .................. DHLA 45M ...... DHLA 45M ...... DHLA 45M Choke ........................ 35 mm ........... 35 mm ............ 37 mm Idle Jet ....................... 58 .................. 58 .................. 52 Idle Jet Holder ............. 7850-10 ........ 7850-9 ............. 7850-7 Accelerator Pump... Pump Jet ..................... 35 (Special) .... 35 (Special) ..... 38H Pump Delivery ............. 8cc/ 20 strokes 8cc/ 20 strokes 8cc/ 20 strokes Pump Lever Clearance .. 0.1 +/-0.05 mm Idle Speed, rpm .......... 900 - 1000 ....... 850 - 950 ........ 900 - 1000 Main Circuit, FYI... Main Jet ....................... 160 ................. 160 ................ 165 Main Air Corrector Jet ... 180 ................. 180 ................. 230 Main Emulsion Tube ...... 7772-14 .......... 7772-12 .......... 7772-13 The US-Federal numbers are potentially confusing, but I threw them in since the carbs were also DHLA45M's. The Fed carbs are running larger chokes which means lower gas velocities and potentially a weaker low rpm response. They probably need a little richer idle since the vacuum to pull fuel over is weaker with the larger chokes. The -9 Idle Jet Holder (Idle Air Corrector Jet) used in the pre-88 DOM / ROW 910's is pretty darned lean (3rd leanest available). Granted, the carbs had smallish 35mm chokes for higher gas velocities, but -9 still seems pretty lean to me. Then from 1988 onward they went another step leaner to -10. If I had a carb turbo running a little lean as you describe, I'd probably start by going several steps richer on the Idle Jet Holders... like a -1. If the car doesn't stumble at around 3200-3500 rpm under hard acceleration, then the Idle Jet itself if probably about right. If it does stumble, then you may end up needing larger Idle Jets as well. But wait with that. One change at a time. Optimize the Idle Jet Holders first, then follow up with the Idle Jets if required. Dellorto Idle Jet Holders (Idle Air Corrector Jets) are not numbered sequentially, but totally randomly. Don't get caught making any assumptions about which one is the next size richer or leaner based upon numerical order. Go by the following chart: Weaker ........................ Normal ....................... Richer 7850.5, .10, .9, .4, .1, .3, .6, .7, .2, .8 .6 and .7 are very close... virtually the same. 7850.1, 7850.6, 7850.2, 7850.8 are more commonly used and readily available. Good luck, Tim Engel Lotus Owners Oftha North

Chris, I know the car. The owner is a LOON member. Another member and I did the wrenching on it for the owner. It's a nice car, clean and fast. I'd buy it if I had the spare change, but I don't. I was hoping someone local would snap it up. He loves the car, but he's selling it to get an Elise. He feels the car is too fast to really enjoy on public streets. Every time he pulls onto the freeway he cracks 100 mph before the end of the ramp. It's hard not to drive them that way since they do it so effortlessly... ya go that fast almost accidently. He's been lucky so far but figures he better get rid of it before he looses his license. So he's going for an Elise which he hopes will be fun and entertaining at sub-100 speeds. Anyway... it's a good car... I'd buy it. The only items on the hit list at the moment are a couple of minor leaks, including one of the transaxle output shaft seals. The other club member who wrenched with me has a hotrodded SE. He and the S4s owner had an one-upsmanship thing going. The SE got the Hi-Torque chip, so the S4s got the 330 HP chip. So the SE got the WC Turbo and big injectors, so the S4s got the Red-Race chip. Tweak this, counter with that. It was fun spending someone else's money. Both cars are great and whoever buys the S4s won't be disappointed. Regards, Tim Engel Lotus Owners Oftha North

Yeah, all US Federal 86-87 G-Turbos and the 88 S-Turbo had the Bosch FI system. Our 88 S-Turbo even retained the Citroen gearbox after everybody else got the Renault. DOM/ROW cars continued with Dellorto carbs until the GM ECU system came along in (??) 1990 (1989 in the USA). Regards, Tim Engel Minnesota, USA

Be careful using a Colortune. It shows you what is going on in the combustion chamber, but doesn't give you the knowledge to make appropriate changes. It's easy to go too lean and damage the engine. A blue flame indicates a stoichiometric air/fuel ratio for gasoline... 14.7:1. That's okay if you can maintain it accurately, but it's right on the fine line between perfect and too lean. Richer (smaller number) hurts fuel economy, but is safe. Leaner (larger number) can seriously hurt the engine. Modern engines with O2 sensors and ECU controlled fuel injection systems can maintain the mixture at the ragged edge and get away with it. They do it all the time in order to meet low emissions and CAFE regulations. But for naturally aspirated, hi-performance carb cars, the safe set-up is to stay a little rich... maybe dipping into the 12's. For turbo-carb cars, it's best to be significantly rich on boost... maybe even as far as into the 10's at high boost. The blue flame at idle is fine. Assuming every thing else about the engine is running properly and it's not missing, then splashes of yellow indicates the mixture is getting more rich as the throttle is cracked. If you could observe the flame color under power, you would see it go very rich in the Esprit. Esprit's run rich under power. Even SE's with the GMP4 engine management system. When the local club goes for a drive, I can be 4 or 5 cars behind an SE and know it's up there. You can smell the exhaust. Don't try to tune the mixture back to all blue on your carbed car unless you really know what you are doing, and the Carbtune directions don't include that knowledge. Follow the instructions and you'll often end up way too lean... at least too lean to run smoothly or to make good power... or to be safe under boost. Many new Colortune users run right out and adjust every thing for a consistent blue flame, then wonder why the engine runs like crap. Then they go chasing after the ignition or whatever else "is causing the problem". "I've got the carbs perfect now, so it can't be them. I'll tune up the ignition". No, it's running that bad because it's too lean. A former acquaintance of mine had a Colortune, and being helpful, tuned other club member's cars. Invariably they ran worse after being "optimized" than they did before. I'd tune the idle mixture back to peak vacuum with a manometer and the engines ran great. "Uhhh, bbbut... isn't it running a little rich ?!" "Yeah, and it likes it, doesn't it?" Anything that would cause the mixture to go rich (dirty filter, high float height (high float/ low numerical value) or sinking floats, high fuel pressure... etc) would result in a more yellow flame. An air leak would cause the mixture to go lean and the flame color would tend toward blue... or beyond and toward white... too hot! If the idle mixture gets too lean, the engine will mis-fire. That may result in flashes of yellow alternating with blue or white even though the mixture is too lean. If the engine is missing or running rough, abort any Colortune testing until you get the problem sorted. Even if that means adjusting the engine richer before carefully dialing it back down with the Colortune. The engine should have a smooth, even idle with no missing. Use a 4-tube manometer to set the idle mixture and the engine will tell you what it likes best. That may not be an emissions friendly mixture, but at least you'll know where the engine wants to be. You can decide where you want to go from there. Peak vacuum isn't real peaky... it will peak and then hold that level as the Idle Mixture Screw is turned for a ways. Find the peak and then note how far the screw can be turned both ways before the vacuum falls off significantly. The optimal setting for good running is usually half way between the two limits. For best economy or emissions, set the screw toward the lean end of the range, just as the vacuum falls off. That's probably still a little rich if you have to pass an emissions test, but you'll need a CO meter to optimize it better. Or you're just taking a shot in the dark. Go too lean an the HC levels will start to climb due to poor combustion. Go so lean the engine starts to miss and the HC will spike. The Colortune will help you find max-lean (stoichiometric), but it won't tell you if the engine runs well on that mixture... either in terms of emissions, smooth running, or burning pistons. It's not unusual for the mixture to go slightly lean as the throttle is opened more. Air is light and accelerates quickly while fuel is relatively heavy and accelerates more slowly. For subtle throttle movements, the accelerator pump may not compensate for the delay. As a result, the mixture stratifies, goes lean initially, then a little rich as the fuel catches up and finally settles down to a steady mixture. For larger more deliberate throttle movement, the accelerator pump squirts in a shot of fuel to keep the mixture from going too lean initially. That's not a very precise action and errs heavily on the side of too rich. For large throttle changes, the mixture usually goes very rich first before settling down. From idle, open the throttle a little, slowly enough that the pump isn't an issue. If the engine hesitates, then the Idle Air Corrector Jets (Idle Jet Holders in Dellortos) are too lean. Not unusual in emissions engines... certainly emissions 9XX engines on Dellortos. If the engine hesitates or stumbles with large off-idle throttle openings, then the accelerator pump is too lean. It's stroke determines the total volume of fuel delivered, the Pump Jet determines how quickly it's delivered, and the spring tension/ pre-load determines over what period of time it's delivered. It get's complicated. Play with the jet size first... that's easier. The Idle Circuit feeds the engine up to around 3500+ rpm, then the Main Circuit takes over. If the engine does a lean-stumble at around 3200-3500 rpm, then the Idle Jets are too small. The circuit runs out of capacity just before the mains take over and the engine stumbles. If it goes lean above 4000 or so, then you play with the Main Jets and Air Correctors. Good luck with your new toy, Tim Engel Lotus Owners Oftha North

Sorry about the redundant posts. I posted the first one and got a error message advising it could not be posted. So I posted the second one only to find they are both there now. :-/ Later, Tim Engel

Glyn, The Esprit body is strong like bull... this is no Europa! And bolts are designed as tension fasteners... that's their strongest mode. Placing stands at the body jacking points is the best way to support it. Moving the stands to the chassis narrows their footprint, places them closer to the car's CG (teeter-totter) and puts them in your way. If your stands don't have a lift-pad shaped appropriately to fit the body jacking point, then put a short (12" or so) piece of 2x4 between the body and the stand. Note the difference between the main body tub molding and the add-on sill panel. Place the 2x4 along the joint line, on the main body molding and as far back toward the wheel well as practical. The intersection of several integral body walls makes that a very strong point and it's right under a chassis mount. For redundancy, leave the trolly jack under the chassis' rear hoop bulkhead... just placed there with minimal pressure. You're not supposed to jack there if the crossmember is out, but in the unlikely event you do manage to knock the car off the stands that probably won't be your first concern. Remove the crossmember only long enough to remove the engine/transaxle. Then replace it until they are ready to go back in. Regards, Tim Engel Lotus Owners Oftha North

Your fears are unfounded. The Esprit's body is strong like bull... this is no Europa! And bolts are designed as tension devices... that's their strongest mode. Moving the stands to the chassis puts them closer together. The wider stance provided by the body jacking points makes for a more stable footprint and gets the stands out of your way. While working on the engine or removing it, you will want easy access to it. Moving the stands in to the chassis puts them were they will be in your way. You will be working around them all the time. Very high PITA factor. Finally, as you move the stands forward they get closer to the car's CG. As a result they will have to bear more of the cars full weight. And depending upon your weight, if you climb into the back of the car it may teeter-totter on the stands. It won't do that if the stands are at the body jacking points. The body points are really the best place. If you want redundancy, place a trolly jack under the chassis' rear hoop bulkhead with minimal pressure. You aren't supposed to jack at that point while the crossmember is out, but if the car were to fall off the stands that probably wouldn't be your first concern. Also, it's best to remove the crossmember only long enough to pull the engine/transaxle. Then put it back until their ready to go back it. For double redundancy, slide a rear tire (widest) under the sills on either side. Place them ahead of the stands but try not to go further forward than the firewall bulkhead. If the car falls, they will catch it before it gets to bug squishing levels. But relax, the car will be very solid, stable, secure if you place stands at the body jacking points. If your stands don't have an end shaped to fit well on the jackin pad, then place a short (12" ?) piece of 2x4 between the stand and the body. Note the difference between the main body molding and the add-on sill panels. Place the 2x4 along that joint line so it rests on the main body molding only and well back toward the wheel well. That's the strongest point due to the intersections of several body walls and it's directly below a body/chassis mount. Regards, Tim Engel Lotus Owners Oftha North

Turbo Esprit's with the Citroen transaxle have The OEM spigot bearing is a little needle bearing affair. If the circlip retaining the spring loaded input shaft fails (they do), and if the Nylatron thrust washer wears out (it will), Then the shoulder at the end of the spigot journal will bear against the spigot bearing and the end of the crank. Any time there is a speed differential between the input shaft and crankshaft, the shoulder will cut away at the crank. As it cuts deeper into the crank, more friction will occur so the input shaft will continue to spin or drag when the clutch is depressed. As a result, it will feel like the clutch is dragging and it will be difficult to shift gears. Eventually, the input shaft will move forward far enough to reduce the spline engagement with the gearbox primary shaft to the point that it can no longer transmit the engine's torque. It strips out and all drive is lost. The little needle spigot bearing cannot prevent that. In the S-Turbos with the Renault transaxle, Lotus went to a deep-groove ball bearing with distinct inner and outer races. The input shaft shoulder presses directly against the inner race and they spin together... there is not relative motion of sliding friction. And the deep-groove ball bearing has sufficient axial load capacity to support the load from the spring loaded shaft. Since you have the crankshaft out, consider modifying it to take a 6202 ball bearing. Take it to an automotive machine shop and have them enlarge the Spigot bore to 35mm dia x 20mm deep. Take the 6202 bearing along and ask for a finger press fit between the bearing and bore. While they're at it, they should also cut three notches down in the new bearing pocket so the hooks of an internal bearing puller have someplace to go. That will make getting it out much easier in the future. Then have them skim-cut a couple of thousandths of an inch off the input shaft's spigot journal OD. The bearing bore ID and the spigot journal OD are both 15mm. That's too tight for a slip fit especially when you're trying to fit it blind while installing the transaxle. Ask for a light slip fit into the bearing plus a generous chamfer on the end of the shaft for a nice tapered lead. The journal no longer has to act as a bearing race for the needle bearing, so exact length of the chamfer isn't critical... maybe 1/8 inch. I've used a 6202-2RS (sealed on both sides) with good success. However, the Lotus-Renault spigot bearing (same OD as the 6202, but larger bore) is sealed on one side and open on the other. The bearing is packed with greased and then extra grease is put into the bore in the back of the crank as a reservoir. If you elect to go that way, get a 6202 with just one seal. Install the bearing into the crank with Loctite. I've done this mod 3 times now and it's the way to go. It's what the original spigot bearing should have been. Especially in the Turbo. S1/S2 input shafts had a stepped shoulder at the spline that the circlip could get a grip on. In the Turbo gearbox, the step was replaced by a smooth transition to eliminate the stress riser... they were trying to help the transaxle live longer under the Turbo torque. However, the combination of a very light circlip and a smooth step transistion means the input shaft can pop out of the primary shaft. Then the spring just forces it forward into the crank. S1/S2's don't have the problem. Turbos do. The ball bearing fixes it. Regards, Tim Engel Lotus Owners Oftha North

Use a voltmeter or test light to double check for 12v at the fuse. Even if the fuse isn't blown, there can be corrosion/ continuity problems that keep the circuit open. Remove the fuse, clean all terminals on the fuse and in the box. Cycle the ignition swtich on-off several times in case the internal contacts are corroded. With the ignition switch in the Run position (or the engine running), do the radiator fans turn on if you short the two wires at the Otter switch together? The ventilation fans are powered from the fuse panel via two orange wires... one for each motor. From the motors, two slate and two yellow wires go to the speed control switch. The radiator fans are powered by an unfused, direct brown wire from the battery cable connection at the starter solenoid. The circuit is switched on-off by a power relay. In early cars, the relay includes an a fuse... check it. Later cars replace the fuse with a thermal trip. The power relay is triggered/energized by low current wires from the Otter switch and ACU control switch. A low current wire from the ACU switch does trip the radiator fan relay to turn on the fans whenever the AC is switched on; but other than that, the ventilation and radiator fans are on separate power circuits. Except... power for the low current Otter switch circuit that trips the radiator fan power relay comes from the same fuse that feeds the ventilation fan circuit. For all of the fans (radiator and ventilation) to fail simultaneously after storage implies something in common failed. That doesn't preclude to separate but coincidental failures, but the odds against that are higher. In this case, the fuse, the continuity of it's connection in the fuse box, or no power feed to the fuse from the ignition switch would be the only elements both circuits have in common. From that point downstream the power circuits are separate. Clean all the fuse box terminals and install a new fuse (just to be sure). The radiator fan relay may be contributing to the failure in that circuit, but it has nothing to do with the ventilation fans not working. Good luck, Tim Engel

Harry Martens is an independent transmission repair shop in The Netherlands. He specializes in Citroen transmissions and has all the parts you might need to repair your Esprit's gearbox at good prices. http://www.ds-vitesse.com/home.html I've rebuilt six Esprit-Citroen gearboxes (several with Mike Griese... Hi Mike), so I'm getting familiar with them. If you get stuck, feel free to contact me directly at tengel@mchsi.com. You could post a message to this forum but I don't check it every day. However, I do check my personal e-mail frequently and might be able to get back to you with a timely response. If all you plan to do is remove the primary shaft assembly and address the 4th gear issue, no special tools are required. The only ones that would be called for are gauge pins to set gaps and you can work around that with a little ingenuity. Drill bits of the proper diameter work well. If you indend to fully strip and rebuild the gearbox, then there are a few special tools you will need. The pinion height needs to be set accurately and there's a special Citroen fixture for measuring it. The fixture is no longer available from Lotus or Citroen. Contact Harry Martens to see if he has a loaner you can use. If all else fails, I can send you a drawing that describes how to measure the height with a straight edge and vernier. The fixture is best by far, but if you can't find one I can talk you through the principle. On the up-side, if you don't replace any components on the secondary shaft, the original pinion height adjustment should not have to be changed. Just check it for peace of mind. However, if you replace a synchro hub for instance, plan on re-shimming the pinion height. The gear that drives the speedometer cable drive has a threaded bore and also serves as the nut that holds the secondary shaft assembly together. You will need a special wrench to remove the gear/nut, but it's no longer available from either Lotus or Citroen. I can send you a drawing that shows how to modify a 36mm crowsfoot wrench to do the job... let me know if you want it. The gear/nut is no longer available (unobtainium) so don't even think about jury rigging some form of abuse to remove it. If you damage it, you have a problem. Harry Martens has Citroen gear/nuts, but the ratio is different. You would have to buy both the speedo gear/nut and the mating gear, and then live with a speedometer that no longer reads the way it once did. If you have never rebuilt a gearbox before, this one is a tough one to learn on. It would be a good idea to solicit the help of a friend who has at least been into a transaxle before. Good luck, Tim Engel Lotus Owners Oftha North