S2!

[Rudi K]

41 minutes ago, JonSE said:

He won’t take on the GRP sun roof delete so I may have to tackle this myself, plus filling numerous holes for the old wing mirrors.

Should the wing mirror holes be ground back and GRP filled?

Surely the S2 wing mirrors are invaluable for reversing and blind spots (which are bad enough). I was once tailed for several miles by the men in blue without noticing – fortunately I was not too far over the speed limit and I think they were mainly curious to have a good look at a JPS …

[JonSE]

The mirrors are long gone, unfortunately. I also ran a previous S2 without them and found it OK. They’d dropped pretty badly and didn’t contribute too much from memory!

[drdoom]

As I've remarked in the past it's a shame no one has taken up the manufacture of compact and smart looking electrically operated wing mirrors to suit these cars. Long ago one could purchase Vitaloni Baby Turbo mirrors so equipped and these were standard fitment on the Countach at some point. Rarely seen NOS examples of these are ludicrously pricey.

[JonSE]

https://www.demon-tweeks.com/ultra-dtm-style-mirrors-pair-ultdm0060/?istCompanyId=a2904180-3a7d-4e56-b876-cf81c9512180&istFeedId=6fbc4b04-fd28-4ce1-8513-835c8f118690&istItemId=wptrrmwwp&istBid=t&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1tyugLKn7QIVErLtCh1ZCgxLEAQYAiABEgLZj_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
 

I may consider something like this if I find I can’t get on with no mirrors.

I’ve been researching the painting techniques for the body. Every word written is conflicted somewhere else when it comes to GRP!

I’ve a few options ranging from a local friend who will take on the work for me right up to five figure quotes from GRP experts.

Knowing Lotus, they wouldn’t have spent more time or money on this aspect of the car than necessary so I assume the variance is down to the effects that 40 years has had on the body shell in terms of quote range.

I really do not want to be doing this paint again in a few years but nor do I want to pay 5X the going rate for an acceptable well sealed none reactive finish!!

What would those who have gone before suggest to someone in my position?

Can the old prepared surface be “sealed” before new paint to prevent reaction??

[JonSE]

Had a good day starting to pull the body / chassis bolts off the car.

Job made easier by five of them being historically absent, maybe from a previous removal of the body. None of the bolts gave much trouble, just a pity my arms aren’t 2 foot longer and I’d have been fine!

Visited screwfix and misjudged their WD40 own brand canister size, but seems to be good stuff.

Certain the battery box has seen an attempt to strengthen it with outer metal lining. It was loosely bonded in with no rivets and the metal sleeve that’s fixed round it won’t allow the assembly to lift out for repair now.
 

Also signs of stress on the corners where it mounts to the body, which I’ll need to sort when the body is off....

[drdoom]

Regarding GRP prep and finishing you'll not do better than read over Dave Lisle's ( @CHANGES ) abundant postings on the subject in these forums. He has two on currently in this Project & Restoration section. I too must deal with finding the wisest path forward in this for my own car, the shortlist of most imperative aspects being cost, competence in GRP prep, and competence in application of various sprayed layers. The cost business you will suss out in time once you've thoroughly looked after the other two. Heaven knows there are multitudes of painters in every corner of the world, most of whom likely sound if well established, but it's the GRP expertise that will make or break the outcome by all accounts. Shortcuts on the latter are to be avoided so do try not to talk yourself into hiring any who seem even slightly questionable in the GRP skills.
 

Best regards

Attractive option, those Demon Tweeks items. Too bad they are manually adjusted.

[JonSE]

Working forward, into cabin and the missing bolt holes were plugged up, so they were intentionally absent.

Photos not necessarily in order...

Rear glazing looks original with Sorbit, but never looks to have sealed, could put your finger through the gap....

Remnants of original (or last before this) trim.

Front N/S footwell bolt missing, also transmission body bolt on passenger side.....plus a couple of others!

Needed several breaker bar / extensions to get the O/S bolt free as flying solo.......

Wishbone cover plate just fell off into my hand in rotten bits.

Wiring exposure shows more butchery and joins.

Could not free the vacuum brake cylinder so had to release the clevis pin inside the cabin at the top of the pedal for both the brake and clutch.

Needed to cut 1X brake line into the manifold as the nut was rounded.

This was about 5 hours steady work, I can see how restoration costs could easily mount!

Front area now free of vacuum cylinder and the activating rod removed on the bench (freed up just fine). Paint beneath is lifting due to years of fluid leaks. Do you recon vacuum cylinders or just replace them?

Ditto clutch cylinders??

Clutch pedal reservoir off.

The apertures look to have been adjusted in the past, a few of the body holes had a rubber like surround to act as a broad washer.

The interior needed stripping for access, was part done already when I bought the car.

The choke switch wasn’t connected and is missing the choke light switch. I’ll fit a new one as I like this function.

No evidence of the loom for the seatbelt lights but lots of joints in the wiring, cuts and hacks.......

Several switches are different, arguably better, but I’d like the original types back in at some point.

Stereo was just balanced in the aperture on the dash and not fixed in (not pictured).

Space is tight, so rear deck needs to double as storage at the end of the shift for the time being.....

 

[GTK]

On 08/11/2020 at 09:05, JonSE said:

 

Hi Jon, just catching up on your project and saw the post about this switch panel. It's a mid to late '80's Range Rover panel of switches likely bought by your PO for spares. hth

Good luck with the build

George

[JonSE]

I’m thinking of fitting one of these under the engine cover:

https://www.mecatechnic.com/en-GB/blazecut-automatic-engine-fire-extinguishing-system-2-metres_UC60901.htm?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=acquisition-produit&utm_content=UC60901

Any any experience?

I saw it saved an Aussie Esprit...

[Gis]

Think they are ok and useful. Some of the guys here in Singapore have them In their cars. A simple solution to cover the area over and around the carbs

[JonSE]

Has anyone fit a towing eye to the front under bin during restoration? 
 

You could buy a kit for the later cars with a spreader plate to bolt under the front floor.

Where do you attach if you have to tow onto a flat bed with out it?

In the past I’ve had no choice but to go round the lower wishbones or gently tow on backwards from below the gearbox. Joys of using the Esprit as an everyday car for sometime!

[Fridge]

"Super cars" were generally pulled in reverse onto trailers I believe.

The front air dam/spoilers preventing both a towing hook and straps.

[GTK]

There's nothing at the front of the chassis strong enough to take the stresses of the car being towed. You could mount an eye on a spreader plate to the ARB support frame but I personally wouldn't use one for anything more than a gentle winch onto a recovery truck or trailer. A good recovery guy will have J hooks that can be used on the bottom arms.

As Dave said reverse onto a trailer seems best, not least for trailer nose weight too, being a mid engined car.

[Nelly]

Really sorry to be so late to the party - going back to the question on page 2 about the front spolier, here is another pic.  Basically it was just masked at the line where the section from the front wing narrows to the point where it flares back out to from the splitter.  To me the front end doesn't have much definition without it:

And here is the pic I got the idea from all those years ago:

 

[JonSE]

2 hours ago, GTK said:

There's nothing at the front of the chassis strong enough to take the stresses of the car being towed. You could mount an eye on a spreader plate to the ARB support frame but I personally wouldn't use one for anything more than a gentle winch onto a recovery truck or trailer. A good recovery guy will have J hooks that can be used on the bottom arms.

As Dave said reverse onto a trailer seems best, not least for trailer nose weight too, being a mid engined car.

Thanks for this, I’ve had reason to need towing in one in the past (I know, shocker), and it felt wrong pulling via the wishbones. Related to this is that the front end is too low for some flat bed recovery trucks (and hi to everyone that saw me on the M1 hard shoulder that time!)

I bought an eye from SJ for the SE with back spreader plate that bolted through the boot floor to spread the load (Lotus accessory from memory).

My thoughts were to introduce a towing eye screw mount somehow right back near the radiator with a 2 ft tow eye I can thread through the grill to give a hard tow point. I’ll see when I get the car stripped.

[JonSE]

53 minutes ago, Nelly said:

Really sorry to be so late to the party - going back to the question on page 2 about the front spolier, here is another pic.  Basically it was just masked at the line where the section from the front wing narrows to the point where it flares back out to from the splitter.  To me the front end doesn't have much definition without it:

And here is the pic I got the idea from all those years ago:

 

Thank you for these, exactly what I was looking for!

The S2 on Wolfrace wheels looks good....

[JonSE]

Moved forward through the car towards the front.

One bolt missing from the pedal box.

Thought I was stumped by the last O/S forward bolt, must have tried every spanner / combination / position over three hours having spent 2 hours on the other two. Eventually got the thing to turn with a 1/4 ratchet and wound it off after freeing it with a mish  mash of small extenders etc.

Deeply unpleasant mix of pot holing / contortionist / yoga / mechanic.

Looked like I was attempting some type of “relationship” with the car at one point as I tried a new kind of leg in / leg out position.

Anyway, got it.

Freed up the last front body bolt, drained the radiator and removed both pinch bolts from the steering column.

The coolant was still quite green, I expected much worse based on the condition of the expansion tank but think the tank must have borne the brunt of the oxidisation with its air gap as the rest of the system was full with antifreeze / water mix.....

My radiator is attached to the body, I was expecting it to be held by the front chassis frame tbh.....

Not many pics on this one as it was all deeply hidden / unpleasant work today, around another 5 hours in total for 6 bolts at a very steady pace.

On a much more pleasant tone, had a forum member drop by to view progress in the week and for a good frame of reference so thank you for that......

[LOTUSMAN33]

Well done Jon, steady progress is still good progress, that body will be off in no time! 
Dave  

[JonSE]

Thank you,

I’ve just the engine bay wiring and gear linkages / fuel tanks and brakes to sort now in readiness.

Regards the hand brake cables - I’m a novice here - how do I release them please from the callipers?

Also the clutch hose looks like the new recent braided replacement, reuse this or replace as matter of course? (Thinking with car sat if it’s degraded etc...)

Thanks,

Jon.

 

[Fridge]

The cables are simple. They just unhook from the calipers. I suspect since you're disassembling the complete car that you need to unfasten the handbrake mechanism within the inner driver's sill to provide some slack. It's easy enough.

As for the braided clutch cable I'm not sure. If it is the new variety then I'm sure you could clean it up, check it over, and refit if OK when you come to build the chassis back up. I'm not sure how long they last, but I suspect years.

[910Esprit]

Hand brake outer cable will probably also be seized into calipers, so you may need to tap them out, once you have released inners

[JonSE]

Thanks for the replies, I suspect the car was an MOT failure before storage as the handbrake cables and balance mechanism appear very new and shiny to me, so expect they were replaced.

Brakes are  partially seized though at front (I think) so have soaked in penetrating fluid in advance of strip down.....

The last owner did mention something about seizing but we managed to shove the car reluctantly onto the trailer. It is heavier than I remember to pull / push when it’s just me....

[Fridge]

Lightweight!

I'd expect more from a t'Yarkshireman.

I think you'll find your rear brake calipers and cables will be fine by the looks of them. Mine had also been replaced at some point, even though the car had been paid up they worked fine after a spruce up.

Internal parts are rare these days so best take care of them. I'll get my sets refurbished at some point when cash allows.

[Rudi K]

When the brakes are behaving you should be able to push the S2 along one handed!

[Fridge]

33 minutes ago, Rudi K said:

When the brakes are behaving you should be able to push the S2 along one handed!

@Rudi K you must have bigger arms than even Ian Botham! But yes, at 1,000kg it's not a heavy car by any means.