Yep, oil coolers aren't fussy about flow direction.

That solution seems a little overengineered when taking the one corner off each of the adaptors would do it...

Will it still fit in with all that sticking out?

You have to be joking....!

This is your idea?

Just kidding...

I wanted to gauge the forum reaction

Fittings at the end of the oil lines are 1-1/8", confirmed. Very tight. Did Lotus use some kind of Loctite on them?

There's no loctite but those are the hardest fittings to get loose on the car for some reason. Need a BF wrench for those...

I'm wondering if some silicone or BP blaster would help?

BF Spanners did mine - very very tight!

I ended up arranging the spanners so I could put a lever between them to get more leverage!

Oil Hose fittings are 1-1/8". Fittings which screw into the sandwich plate are 28mm. Rich, I used your method=levers and crow bars.

There is an evidence of white paste thread sealer. I'm planning to use Permatex 56521.

I just used copper washers, no leaks!

Word of advice for all brave souls trying to do this right. It is much easier to do it in the following order:

Install only the "inboard" fitting into the plate, install the sandwich plate,(tighten the collar with the brute force). Next, connect the inboard hose end to the fitting using 1-1/8" crowfoot wrench. THEN, install the outboard fitting into the sandwich plate and the outboard hose end to the fitting. Use Loctite on all threads.

Removal of the OE plate is much easier if you follow above instructions, but in reverse order. Start from removing outboard hose end , then outboard fitting (28mm socket). This will allow you a convenient access to the inboard hose and fitting.

Use 1/2" extensions, 21" flex ratchet and couple of oak 1.5"x1.5" sticks as a levers/crowbars. Lotus used some kind of a Gorilla thread-locker on those threads and fittings.

Access is much easier if you disconnect and remove pivoting shifter arm located below.

Edited September 11, 201212 yr by MrDangerUS

Could someone tell me what is the thread size and pitch of the original OE sandwich plate fittings to which oil lines connect?

5/8" BSPP

Thanks, Sanj!

This is the second best mod to the oiling dystem, just after the remote filter mod.

When you try to slacken the OE oil hose fittings you have to use a really long breaker bar and a sturdy (Stahlwille) crow foot wrench.

 

They are glued with some kind of ”Gorilla" glue!

Edited February 22, 201510 yr by MrDangerUS

Hi Guys. Just had a crack at this today. Getting the old one out proved to be easy. Getting the new one in though! How do you tighten the central nut? I'm completely unable to get a spanner on there due to the shape of the sandwich plate. It looks like it's 1" but no one seems to sell sae tools anymore!

Can anyone confirm that a socket will fit on it without fouling the sandwich plate?

Edited March 28, 201510 yr by cammmy

Box spanner?

 

Just a tiny diversion......Would this push on thermostat be a viable alternative to the Mocal, spliced into the oil lines? If so it sounds like it would save a lot of spannerwork swapping the sandwich plate. I'm assuming hose clips can keep the oil pressure at bay?

 

http://www.burtonpower.com/mocal-in-line-oil-thermostat-5-8-push-on-mocot2.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=prodlistad&utm_campaign=gb_feed?WbRf=ProdListAd&gclid=CL_34vajzMQCFUzKtAodlA4Alg

 

Sure, probably would but, you'd be adding several points of failure, and you'd still need the sandwich plate.

 

Some people have do that, along with a remote oil filter, since on the BOSCH injected cars, it is quite difficult to access the oil filter.

Hi Guys. Just had a crack at this today. Getting the old one out proved to be easy. Getting the new one in though! How do you tighten the central nut? I'm completely unable to get a spanner on there due to the shape of the sandwich plate. It looks like it's 1" but no one seems to sell sae tools anymore!

Can anyone confirm that a socket will fit on it without fouling the sandwich plate?

 

If you look at my photos on page 2, it looks like there is enough room for a socket, no problem...  Needs to be a deep one. I believe I used a socket, it is not torqued a huge amount...

Brilliant, thanks. Do you remember what size it was. Seems like either 1" or 26mm?

Not sure probably closer to 30mm...???

 

Maybe I used a crescent wrench

I remember those oil fittings as well when I had a leak from the engine. I have yet to undo them. They are incredibly tight.

I bought a 1" spanner and it seems the right size (it's either that or 26mm. I can only get the open end of the spanner on due to the shape of the plate and the fact the engine is in the car)

 

I've tracked down and ordered a 1" socket as well as a 26mm deep socket. Hopefully I'll be able to get one of them on.

Looking at the Mocal MOCTB3 which Travis has fitted, what unions are needed which don't come with the plate? Does it come with the central fitting to tighten it to the main housing? and what size are the fittings connecting between the thermostat housing and the flexy pipes? oh and are the Dowty type washers included?

Thanks

Glyn

The MOCTB3 comes with all the parts.  The 5/8" BSP adapters and the 3/4" FORD filter threaded adapter tube.  Also the washers are included.

Thanks Travis.

Ordering now...

Glyn