412 BHP...THAT WILL DO NICELY......

[CHANGES]

7 minutes ago, RichardJGC said:

Neither can we. Go on...you know you want to!

Patients  ,    young Padawan ,   one must feel the force , not controlled by it.. 

[red vtec]

Dave,

What kind of performance are you getting? 

Ta

 

[pete]

Did you see the vx220 in absolute lotus with 520 bhp?

[Sparky]

3 hours ago, red vtec said:

Dave,

What kind of performance are you getting? 

Ta

 

It's somewhere between "Holy shit" and "I've soiled myself".

[RichardJGC]

....and also ‘my face has changed shape’ kind of performance!

[CHANGES]

27 minutes ago, Sparky said:

It's somewhere between "Holy shit" and "I've soiled myself".

I thought that expression was glee not Pee.!!!

25 minutes ago, RichardJGC said:

....and also ‘my face has changed shape’ kind of performance!

As you say ,It can pull a few wrinkles out of the face on us oldies,   but you are to young so must have just been a smile.. Although you are one donut up on Sparky..  I seem to remember that gave us the giggles ...   

3 hours ago, red vtec said:

What kind of performance are you getting? 

But to answer your question , it made another experienced Esprit owner quite flushed , and bought on an asthma attack on another  chap, to which he he said after..  I did not bloody expect that..    So quite quick... 

 

[CHANGES]

On 14/04/2020 at 18:12, cweeden said:

Hi Dave,

Can you give an idea on the cost of such finishing processes if one was to undertake this? FYI I have the GTO strengthened internals and Quaife ATB. 

If it is deemed a rude question feel free to ignore it. 🙂

cheers

-Chris

 

It will depend at lot on how much you do yourself..  If you just sent it in to get fully done and returned finish , i would expect you would spend around £2-- £2.5 k mark  for full treatment... My costs also included designing and making the new gears from billet so very different.. I also sent the box in stripped ...      It will certainly increase your torque loading capabilities...   On a foot note i asked for the selector sliders to be super finished at the same time , i did this to try and smooth out / refine the gear selection at the same time ..  

[cweeden]

Hi Dave,

Thanks for the details, is there anywhere online that you can point me to for further info on the processes you have had done? I am just starting on work to refresh my Esprit with the key aim of making it more dependable, it has spent way too much time sat still for various issues. The GTO internals provides some comfort that a slightly higher output from the V8 won't destroy it on day one but this doesn't touch the CWP for example so an option to really make it all tough is quite attractive but I am ignorant to the process. 🙂

cheers

-Chris

[CHANGES]

Hi Chris ,

If you just type in ' REM treatment on gears ' on google you will get a list of companies who do it.. you can then find someone local..    However one should remember REM is just one part in processes available .  It does have benefits when just done on its own, but to get the most out of what you have , you should also consider having the gears put though 'cryogenic heat treatment' . This will remove the residual stresses  normally found within the gears . You can then, and is normal in these sort of cases to be followed up by 'micro peen blasting ' to remove unwanted surface tension..  The next step after that would  be to have all the gear 'lapped in', before finishing off with REM treatment....     Quite a collection of processes which are not easy to find all done under one roof..  So my suggestion would be to read up on all the processes individually , then decide how far you want to go and find a specialist who can get it all done for you.. They should be to advise you accordingly on what would probably be best for you .. 

hope that helps. 

PS .. you need to make sure the gears you have do not have micro cracking already within them before committing to process .. If you find such cracks just replace those gears before proceeding..  A decent company will do that for you ..    

[cweeden]

I feel like Pandora's box has just been opened (again) 🙂

Thanks Dave, I will start researching during my many boring conference calls. 👍

cheers

-Chris

[Barrykearley]

1 hour ago, cweeden said:

some comfort that a slightly higher output from the V8 won't destroy it on day one but this doesn't touch the CWP for example

If your feeling like your missing out - I’ve a spare smashed CWP I’m happy to sell

[jfitz981]

@CHANGES This thread was a fascinating read. Hats off to the job done so far! 

In reading the extent that you modified the air intake system, I was wondering if you considered or tried simply bolting one of those conical air filters directly to the turbo to eliminate all that intake piping throughout the engine bay?

I see that type of setup on the higher HP Lambo turbo builds.

I do not know much about it so no idea if it would work or even be a good idea on the Esprit. 

Best Regards,

Jason 

[Barrykearley]

The temperatures in the engine bay simply make that a bad idea.

[Escape]

As above, a bad idea on most if not all cars because of engine bay temperature. You want cool air going in to the engine/turbo. Air in the engine bay can get quite warm, especially at low speeds. The same problem that can cause poor idling when hot on cars with K&N filters bolted directly to the carbs instead of an intake piped to the front.

[CHANGES]

On 27/05/2020 at 03:53, jfitz981 said:

@CHANGES This thread was a fascinating read. Hats off to the job done so far! 

In reading the extent that you modified the air intake system, I was wondering if you considered or tried simply bolting one of those conical air filters directly to the turbo to eliminate all that intake piping throughout the engine bay?

I see that type of setup on the higher HP Lambo turbo builds.

I do not know much about it so no idea if it would work or even be a good idea on the Esprit. 

Best Regards,

Jason 

Sorry about slow reply Jason.  It is much as @Barrykearley and @Escape say on engine bay temp ...  But with the added effect of trying to reduce the pull forces that the compressor has to do ...  The harder the compressor works to produce boost the more it will cavitate and generate heat.. The heat is a negative and will reduce VE .  Much the same as a hot engine bay ..   So the system I devised will give the least restrictive flow to the compressor and at speed will provide a ram air efficiency to aid flow at higher rpm.   The main benefit of the ram air is to reduce pressure differences across the air filter element..  The higher the pressure on the fresh air side lowers the suction work the compressor has to do ..    It's  all small pieces in the bigger puzzle , but do make a difference , especially when part of a package ..     

[MrDangerUS]

Re: lowering the engine compartment temperatures.

Small modifications, but work for me. 

Fans are ON continuously when ignition key "ON" and powered trough  Amperite "power-off" delay timer, which keeps fans extracting hot air for 5 minutes after ignition is OFF to mitigate the heat soak cycle. Thermocouple and Derale processor regulate speed of my 2 stage 5,5" Spal fans.

 

 

Edited March 28, 2021 by MrDangerUS

[MrDangerUS]

Colder or not...

Bottom line: I would never put air intake in the engine compartment. CAI temperature determines where on the map your turbo will work. Hi temperature and pressure drop are your enemies.

[MrDangerUS]

Reducing the pressure drop on the intake side increases compressor efficiency.

[CHANGES]

On 16/05/2015 at 22:44, CHANGES said:

 Development details part 3 

Above is a link to the original post on the induction development that @MrDangerUS is making reference to , for those curious ( page 12)..  It does make a massive difference , but only as part of a package .. There will be some gains as an isolated area as Mr.D illustrates due to reduction in turbo scavenging that causes higher MAT.  However  In the second pic, of Mr D's post you can make out the intake grill on the body near the fuel cap .. Very early on this was identified as a choke point due to the restrictive nature of the grill by size ..  We found fitting a circa 10mm or 1/2'' fine wire grill gave 30% more flow capability ..  We also increase the intake aperture to 4'' ..  This is a fiddly but very doable mod..  The next point is the air filter element ..  This should be change to the highest flow unit available , especially when retaining the original position and housing ..  We also found that gains were made by reducing the number of bends and making the run as short as possible..  All small points but they add up ..   The only other point is the crank case breather pipe funnelling back to the intake .. This can increase MAT and reduce air quality .. Fitting a catch tank instead is a better option ..    

[Barrykearley]

One day I will get mine dyno’d - but I’ve listened intently to the knowledge that @CHANGES has shared so openly on this forum. The difference in performance on mine is incredible - it’s the sum of the small things that add upto the big rewards 👍