Tailgate Release Snapped, Help Please!

[B1 RMA]

On my drive out today to look at a car I stopped at the services to remove the various clothes and junk that had collected in the cockpit pulled the release lever and pop the cable disapeared and the knob end flew off somewhere. I cant open the back and I am stuffed at the moment any ideas?

The heater does not get warm only cold as well I've just discovered anyone any ideas?

[ESPREE]

Do you mean the rear tailgate cable snapped? When I got my Esprit this cable was broken, but

I was able to grab a tiny strand of the wire with a pair of small vice grip pliers and then left it attached until I got it repaired. Take a look with a flashlight to see if there are any remnants left that you could grab.

If the cable has completely disappeared, I've heard that there is a way to get the tailgate open by drilling a hole in the rear fascia. But maybe there is another way as well. Some forum searching should help.

No real thoughts for the heat besides looking to see if the control is still connected and actually moving something or just spinning on it's own.

Kent

[B1 RMA]

Yes the tailgate cable just shot into the void no chance of getting even a strand, it looks like I may have to cut into the rear bulkhead near the cable area to retrieve it as I cant open the rear cover at all.

I'll do a check of the heater knob later today.

[Kimbers]

Yoiks! I had an S4 for a couple of years but there must be an emergency release, surely?

p.s. Edited title to generate more help!!

[Simon350S]

There's no easy option from memory.

Don't go down the drastic route of drilling a hole behind your numberplate it's not necessary.

There's a few options

1. Break be offside tail light and gain access through the opening behind, you can get at the master latch. Then buy an new tail light and your done.

2. Try and remove the boot floor from underneath by drilling out some of the fasteners, you should be able to get your hand in to gain access to the main latch.

3. At a guess you may be able to gain access via the fuel filler on the off side depending on te routing of the cable. You'll need to remove a couple of bits so you can slip your fingers between the filler neck and the bodywork. Don't recall hearing of anyone doing it this way but it may be an option.

Once you've opened it up and replaced the cable don't forget to fit yourself a emergency release cable which you can access from somewhere discrete!

Having another Esprit along side with an open boot and some trim removed will make working blind on your own car much easier!

Good luck

Where do you live incase there is someone local who can help you out?

[redshift]

When mine snapped I cut out an arm sized hole in the boot floor.

Very easy to re-glass afterwards and none of the fixing points get disturbed.

[sailorbob]

No heat to the ventilation air is usually a sign of a vacuum hose becoming dislodged from somewhere.

[Bibs]

And in case you didn't know, the middle vents are cold only, heat only comes from the screen and footwell vents.

[ramjet]

I regularly grease the tailgate pins to lessen the force required to open the tailgate. My theory is that if this happens more easily, then the cable should be under far less stress.

[Simon350S]

Michael, I'd run a spare in while originals still hanging on!

That's gotta be the way forward for all boot cable release owners out there.

Me, I've a shiny knob which gains me easy access to the dirty bits!

[B1 RMA]

I think the idea of cutting a hole in the boot cover to get my arm through seems the best option. It would also be an idea to lubricate as suggested.

The heater problem needs a bit more investigation as it blows cold on the screen and footwell aircon has also stopped working.

There's never a dull moment with Lotus ownership is there!

Fortunately a chap called Simon who has a V8 lives close to me.

[red vtec]

http://www.lotusespritworld.com/EGuides/EMaintenance/HatchCable.html

[B1 RMA]

Just had a good look and has I have every size and type of holesaw I think its going to have to be the removal of the number plate then drill a hole through my newly fitted transom (bugger)

[superdavelotus]

Hi David,

I've just been out to my car to see if I could get in. I manage to get in and pop the driver's side lock. I was going to have to go at the passenger side but feared I would scratch my car too much! I was just about to post instructions on here but then realised what a plonker I would have been telling every tom dick and harry how to break into an Esprit. I've pm'd you some details instead. I've also given you my contact details should you want to talk it though.

Good luck!

Regards,

David

[ramjet]

I'm with redshift on this. I'd be doing a hole in the boot floor before I cut a hole in the transom. Much easier to repair cosmetically and the carpet in the boot may well push away from the hole saw, whereas the mat on the inside of the boot on the transom will get all buggered up.

Boot floor gets my vote.

[superdavelotus]

If drilling the boot floor is your only option then drill a pilot hole the use a rod to push the boot floor carpet up out of the way then drill your large hole next to it. The boot floor carpet is just held in by velcro.

Regards,

David Walters

[B1 RMA]

I'm going to give superdavelotus's idea a try in the morning then if that fails its the boot, am I right in thinking that if I get hold of the cable and pull it through the hole I'll be able to just pull it with some pliers and release it? Will pulling the cable out mean that I won't be able to reposition it? and do I just remove the carpet bit above the area to gain access to the back of the lever assembly in the cockpit?

[Vulcan Grey]

I had to do this many years ago, I was the one who sent the idea to Kato about using a Dremel to cut off the boot floor mounting captive nuts, and then pushing up the infill panel to put vise grips on the latches. It worked for me! No visible damage to the car!!!

[Simon350S]

Don't drill your transom!!

Again where are you? If I'm near I'll happily pop over and help but ive no idea where in the UK your based.

[DanR]

I had to do this many years ago, I was the one who sent the idea to Kato about using a Dremel to cut off the boot floor mounting captive nuts, and then pushing up the infill panel to put vise grips on the latches. It worked for me! No visible damage to the car!!!

[B1 RMA]

Don't drill your transom!!

Again where are you? If I'm near I'll happily pop over and help but ive no idea where in the UK your based.

I live in Hampshire not sure how close that is to you. I think the transom will now be the last resort, superdavelotus is sending me some diagrams this morning as I'm going to have a go today at doing it.

[superdavelotus]

Hi Dave,

If you get access into the boot area whether it be with a cable or your hand then you only need to grab hold of the outer cable.

I've just had a thought... my idea won't work when you have a snapped cable. I was able to pop my boot last night but my cable isn't snapped so I was able to grap hold of the outer cable and just pull that the this with the intact inner cable was enough to move the lock mechanism. With this problem, it's always a snapped cable so pulling the outer won't do anything. I am sorry to say this but it looks like a hole in the boot floor or removing the boot floor itself.

You could try the rod method but I think you may be wasting your time.

I thought when I managed to get into my boot last night, the job would be easier than I first thought should my cabel ever snap but now I have to have a rethink. I might fit another cable somewhere preferably in the cabin somewhere.

Regards,

David

Oh one last thing, how much cable is left on your handle? If there's nothing apart from the end then there maybe some chance that you can still get to the end of the cable. Try taking the cover off around the handle to see if you can see more of the area behind the firewall. Also the hole where your seat belt goes also has direct access to this area. Try poking a coat hanger or rod in this area to see if you can feel for this cable. you may be able to get some thin long nose pliers on the end somehow?

It's only an idea, I haven't a clue if this will work.

Regards,

David Walters

[Simon350S]

A little too far away unfortunately.

I'm in Romford working and staying in Harlow, both the wrong side of London and about 2 hours at a guess.

Sorry mate, happy fishing!

[ramjet]

If you do get access to the cable via a pair of pliers through the rear firewall, have someone else push down on the corners of the rear hatch when you pull the cable. Will makes it heaps easier to pull the cable to open the locks.

[B1 RMA]

Right folks all sorted, with a 111mm holesaw it went through the bottom of the boot in seconds, reached up pulled wire out then opened both catches with a singe pull. went down to the local Lambretta scooter shop and bought a throttle cable 3 metres long and a couple of fittings for £6. we removed the ecu cover and the strut which we had great fun putting back (you have to undo the rear bolts holding the tailgate on then fit it) anyway I also found the other end of the high level stop light lead and plugged it in to the strut connector so I also have the bonus of my high level brake light working now. Its easy with two people Simon who also has a V8 did this as a joint effort.