Refurbishing Wooden Dash Fascia

[Vanya]

Greetings all!

So this weekend I pulled out the binnacle on the SE in order to investigate why my ABS-lamp isn't flashing when it's getting the signals - turns out my suspicions were right about an incompetent workshop in Hertfordshire who solved the "flashing ABS" light by pulling the bulb out of its holder and taping over it with black tape and fabric so I wouldn't see it was still blinking in there.

Anyways that's beside the point. With the binnacle pulled I've also decided to repaint the edges of the wooden faschia which have chipped away at the controls (the frame around the lights buttons etc) - at the same time I was mulling over contacting a woodshop/crafts/guitar-workshop place of some sort to have the lacquer filed down/removed and re-done as the clean lacquer has cracked all over the place. This in itself isn't very noticeable but I was nonetheless curious.

Has ANYONE ever attempted this, because I haven't heard of it?

Before someone suggest it I'm one of the few who finds the wooden dash on the SE more aesthetically pleasing than the S4:s Carbon-fibre type, so I don't want to go that route really. Another alternative would be to buy the plain black plastic dash and print out a wooden dash sticker graphic, but that would be kinda cheap!

The last option, buying a replacement wood dash, is prohibitive, so a no go.

Thoughts, suggestions?

[Mysterae]

The lacquer on my dash is all cracked too. I thought about sanding it down and re-coating it numerous times. However unlike you I think the wooden dash dates the car. I've had a few thoughts about replacing it but haven't got very far! I even thought about a small pc screen running a custom Freescan skin replacing all the gauges but I don't think that's allowed.

I would love to replace the chunky-tronic buttons too.

Good luck with whatever you decide!

[andydclements]

I've got the material to do some dash panels for my Excel, when i went to a specialist wood finishers supply shop they advised a resin for covering it. It's the only stuff they say they've found that can withstand the heat and direct sunlight.

I could go and find it and identify the brand but I'd suggest looking for a resin (two part) wood finishing product. Probably not dissimilar to clear polyester resin all be told.

[pete]

this article may help

http://www.spitfired.co.uk/Dash.html

[Vanya]

Nice link Pete!

Hmm...might be a real challenge wit a veneer on the SE panels as two of them are curved. I'ma take one to a woodshop later this week and see what they recommend. Worst case, I'll just re-do the paint around the panels and leave the rest. The clear-lacquer cracks in the light part of the wood don't look to ghastly tbh. Anyhow I've gotta all winter to mull it over.

/V

[mdw]

I have used Rustins plastic coating before which worked quite well. Dotn know how long it would last for on a car dash. http://www.rustins.co.uk/

[Mysterae]

I had the idea of making the panels out of plastic (perspex kinda thing) and spraypainting it from behind. Not sure how it would look though. Then I'd want to change the gauges for something modern...

[jonwat]

Here's a link to an episode of Wheeler Dealers Ed China re-veneers the centre console of an XJS

It's been dubbed over in Polish but you can still hear what he's saying & is worth watching until about half way through where he re-lacquers it with a spray can.

[Vanya]

Cool stuff! I guess I should look out for a new veneer. And follow the suggestions above.

But I do wonder if its possible to simply sand down the bad lacquer where its cracked to the base, re-apply new lacquer, and sand it level. The problem is..if I mess this up, no more wooden dash!!

[Vulcan Grey]

The veneer is so thin, that if the lacquer is cracked... then I'm fairly sure the wood is cracked all the way through as well.

[sanj]

You could buy my nearly new dash set -- http://home.earthlink.net/~turboesprit2/bitsforsale.html

[Vanya]

Yeah I've seen that one up on your site Sanj, but my wallet is reeling from earlier this year - 599 for a new set burns a little too much (although it is reasonable). I've gotta start playing the lottery more often.

That front wheel you have though....that might look interesting. (Looking into refurbing my SE-wheels this winter and my front left one has a lot of light pitting, might be cheaper to buy yours as the repair on your scratches will likely be less than for my current wheel. That said, wheel refurbs in Sweden are a ******* ripoff - anywhere from 600-1500 dollars)

I'm gonna try and just paint the edges and leave the cracked lacquer alone. I'm "lucky" as the wood underneath it is in one piece and hasn't folded outward, so it's not noticeable really..

Edited October 16, 2012 by Vanya

[CHANGES]

No Problem...

I did mine.. re covered the whole lot in a burr walnut veneer ... It was not that

difficult , even going around the curves. While i was at it i also put Veneer in the

switch openings instead of that shitty brown paint , just to finish it off.

The total material cost was less than £50.oo plus my time to do it.... Thats enough to do

it twice in case i cocked it up...But didn't..

I had never done it before an found it fairly straight forward...

[jonwat]

Dave, where did you get the veneer & what glues & lacquers did you use??

[CHANGES]

I will try and find the supplier details and pm later,

The glue was a quality wood glue and i used several coats of

2k car finish clear coat as as opposed to the poly paint everyone else

uses, I did this to try and prevent cracking/ pealing in future.. It also

has less of a plastic re-done look and more of a classic appeal...more to my taste.

The thing is you can try your own finish applications on a test piece first,

find what suits you best and go with it... That's what i did..

[jonwat]

Yes, forgot to say - it looks good "proper job"

[Bibs]

I just like that your boost gauge goes to 2.5 bar

[CHANGES]

Bibs.... A keen eye again...I keep trying to slip things in without telling.!!!

Just to keep you on your toes, with a few Changes...

John.....

I have PM'd you the Veneer supplier details......

Edited October 16, 2012 by CHANGES

[Vanya]

Holy Crap Dave that dash looks amazing!

Awesome job! Can you also PM me with the veneer supplier you used?

This seems like a great winter job to do. I can try it on one of the side panels first and see how it goes.

LOL @ The shitty brown paint - man what a pile of crap that is. Everyone who sits in my car comments on it "Ooooh look its chipping a bit here" and then proceed to chip a little extra off it, so much so that there soon won't be much left of it!!!

[CHANGES]

Hi Vanya.

I have PM'd details of supplier for you...

[Vanya]

Ok how does one get the damn lacquer off!? I've tried using paint stripper, heating it up, various thinners - nothing leaves a dent. Do I have to sand this down? I was hoping to avoid that option....

 

Travis, how did you get the old veneer off? Just sanding?

 

/V

[andydclements]

The lacquer is probably 2 pack so solvents will be ineffective, abrasion is probably the only way without damaging the material underneath (the glue of the ply).

[CHANGES]

Hi Vanya,

You should be able to separate the old veneer by lifting an edge, then

using the chisel de-laminate it, Slide gently between the veneer and the ply

backing it should come off quite easy.  Do it like removing a skin rather than

taking off a lacquer. Try not to let the chisel dig into the backing ply or you

will have to repair them before fitting new veneer.

 

Dave 

Edited December 16, 2012 by CHANGES

[Vulcan Grey]

My veneer was so cracked that it peeled off with little force. If you want to keep the wood, you'll need to sand off the coating. If you want to remove the wood veneer to totally replace it, then peel it off the plywood base.

[rudolphwolven]

@ Vaya,

 

Report/details of repair..........

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=8&t=1101388&mid=0&i=0&nmt=Burr+Walnut%2E&mid=0

 

http://www.woodveneeruk.co.uk/categories.php?cat=42

 

mike@nantwichveneers.com

 

 

Best regards, Ruud