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A/C Compressor - How hard / much time to remove and replace SE 1993


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  • Gold FFM

We all know that 8 hours is over the top, so I won't flog that one again!

 

When I did one for Paul (DouLou on here) recently, he first sourced a compressor that wouldn't fit because of different unions.  I'm sure he got it from the States, and subsequently discovered that they're different US/UK.  I'll give him a shout and try and find his source...

British Fart to Florida, Nude to New York, Dunce to Denmark, Numpty to Newfoundland.  And Shitfaced Silly Sod to Sweden.

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Sparky,

 

That would be extremely appreciated! So far best I can do is pull it, if possible, and send to Texas for a "rebuild" if it does appear to actually be leaking. Car was supposedly ready for me today, but no call so guess other poop going on. lol. Hope your adventure went well and are coping with recovery!

 

MikieP

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Hi Mikie

 

Sparky's almost got it, you must forgive him he's not been his self lately

 

Right - The first unit I purchased, as Gary quite rightly says wouldn't fit, well the compressor would fit, but the unions were not the same. However I found a company that has adaptors which once fitted make the unions fine, From my research the flanged fittings on the compressors needed to fit prior 1995 cars are only available from the States. I found several sites on Ebay selling Sanden SD508 compressors from the states with the correct flanged fittings and they didn't look that expensive to me.

The company for the flanged adaptors is in Leicester called NASS Ltd, I will gladly help you getting them just let me know.

 

Paul

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Hi Paul,

 

Much thanks for your input! There are hundreds of SD508 versions available and without getting mine out and into hands I can not make any physical comparisons as to fit, mount, flanges, etc. My type I think is 9036 (has to do with pulley setup, mounts, etc.) and they seem to not be around anymore, but again, that is an assumption since the shop told me the type was a 9136 that does not seem to exist at all, so looking at various parts subs listings, a 9036 seems to be the one, but they too, are not out there.

 

Once my car is back in my incapable hands, I will take a look at the thing however possible and fix the type correctly, take some pics, measure it as best I can, and go to places that purport to have some SD508's on the shelf and compare. On the other hand, I have been looking into getting the windscreen being filmed with a new product that many of the Tesla folks have claimed worked really well - Spectra Photosync 70 - reputed to be the best out there for now and that should help quite a bit with the heat until I can get this and perhaps other things sorted properly, perhaps with a visit from our friend!

 

MikieP

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  • 1 month later...

Still not gotten around to dealing with the A/C leaks as yet. Car back but only temporarily and as there are incomplete actions taking it back to the shop. It cools a little bit and feels almost nice when the sun is blocked by clouds, and certainly could use more R12 installed. Maybe in the next month or so when it is back in my hands again. Currently looking into replacing the rear view mirror with something that has auto dimming (electrochromic) and homelink garage doors circuitry in it but having some difficulty locating something that will mount to the present fixings. May have to weld the two differing stem pieces pieces together. More later.

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Well peoples a systems arnt working because 9out of10 get took to a company that in reality dont do it correctly. Ive been to 3 different ones in my ownership and number4 has actually sorted it out correctly. There is more to it than just draining and refilling and adding oil. You do not need to change compressors or pipes or seals or actually anything at all unless it is faulty. What needs to happen is a correct systematic conversion. This includes initially filling with r12 and testing the whole system. Once its established that everything works correctly as should the system is then drained. Without going into too much detail the system is drained and flushed through thoroughly and during the process an "ester" oil is used. This enables the system to handle the r134 gas without the need to change anything. Its a lengthy process but this is where mist companies fall down. Not only do they not use this oil but they dont spend long enough doing it! So once its all cleaned out and ready for 134 gas its refilled and tested again..its important to note that 10to15% LESS gas is used with r134 than r12.

Its a long process with various test and retests involved and more detailed than ive said BUT it took nearly 2and half hours on my esprit the other week and as ive mentioned the results are fantastic.

I genuinely believe that there are too many aircon places out there that just cut corners and dont get results then tell you a load of bull regarding replacing this that and the other. It cost me £90 all in to get my system working to a level that im actually amazed by.

So if anyone thinks the esprit aircon system is rubbish or the condenser is inadequate and has to be replaced with a new design etc blah blah is merely misguided by the usual false information that tends to surround this car. Its just a case of going to the right place and getting it sorted by people who actually know what theyre talking about..

 

Who did the work for you Darren?

Caught between a rock and a hard place in a catch 22 situation, So its 6 of one and half a dozen of the other. Your damned if you do, but your damned if you don't so shut your cock!!!!!!!!!!!

Lotus Espirt Turbo S3    

Lotus Esprit S4 

Lotus Elise S2 Sport 130

pig_zps6d7342f1.jpg

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Compressor tech. Theyre the official Sanden distributer/refurbishment in the uk.. which is obviously the make if compressor we have on the esprit. Theyve recently moved to Warwick from Birmingham. And guess what...was in the esprit yesterday with the heat and I was perfectly comfortable with the a/c on..2 odd months after I had it done...

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If the sun is hidden I can get some to the touch cooled air but the black binnacle and the windscreen panel are black and absorbs too much for it to cope. Thinking of making the binnacle tan to match the seat leather. Thoughts?  Have not had the car in hand long enough to see if it really leaks nor able to use the R12 tester I have as yet. hoping I can get under once back from the shop without taking off anything to get hoses on her to check for compressor oil being released showing there is some in the system and then add some r12 (scored a 30 lb weighing 18 lbs for 150) R12 into her to see what happens. I assume the sight glass is present in the front as i have not had working time due to heat 95F avg or storms in my driveway while having the car in hand.

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if the gas is too low it will not allow the compressor to run - see the Low Pressure Switch. To check and see if that is the cause, assuming the dash controls are correct, A/C on and temp on cool, just short the switch very briefly and you should hear the compressor clutch engage. Trouble with this test is that if your system is low on both R12 and compressor oil it may harm the compressor. Just so you know. If you can access the fill ports, either one, and the car is off, when you depress the pin valve(s) you should feel a bit of oil come out along with the gas. If no oil, then oil is needed as well as R12.

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