Ian's S4s refurb

[Chillidoggy]

By way of an explanation, in the 80's I used to work with an engineer who was pretty much a dead-ringer for the nutcase 'Oddball' from 'Kelly's Heroes' film. Whenever he did anything technical, it not only had to work after he'd finished, but it had to look good while it was doing it. He had an obsession for detail which transcended anything else I had seen up to that point. He extended that ethos even to work he'd done that was unlikely to ever be seen again, stuff behind panels etc. I worked with him for about 8 years and when he left the company, he decided he was going to set up in business to repair clocks and watches. This he did successfully for a number of years, despite never having any formal training.

Sadly, he died some years ago of a mystery illness but what you see in the photos is almost certainly due to his influence.

[CHANGES]

Tidy is always good, saves spending hours looking for things.. but most important shows pride in the work which always nets better results..

Are you still looking for a translator? if so all or just a part ?   

[silverfrost]

Good way of working Ian,  a clear methodical way of working, especially like the bags round the inner cvs to stop grease and shite getting on them, Know plenty  of engineers who today still work like this, a tidy ship is a happy ship and all that.  Sorry to hear about your work buddy, some people are talented enough to turn their hands to anything and be extremely good at it.

Good luck with the work on the motor  

[Chillidoggy]

Tesco's food bags are quite tough, and perfect for protecting against dirt and dust while the engine's out. I used them for the driveshafts, turbo, oil cooler sandwich plate, air-con lines and so on. Anywhere where a fluid or air system is exposed, but the areas around them needs to be cleaned off beforehand to prevent dirt falling in when the connections or covers are removed. They work really well when used with either extra long cable ties, or insulating tape, to secure them.

[Loose Cannon]

Gutted for you going through this again, I'd be suicidal. Due to a close bereavement I have been off-grid and only just put enough miles under my car since Christmas to feel confident again. Fingers crossed for those cranks seals I changed!

 

BTW have you had enough wheeltime to decide if the PNM brake conversion was worthwhile?

[Chillidoggy]

TBH, it's a little frustrating taking the lump out again, but I have only myself to blame. I should have done the work first time around, but there you go. Sparky did advise the changing of the alloy coolant pipes, and I ignored that advice, too. Meanwhile, it's all ready to be removed, but I need another body to help take the tailgate off. Should get that done this weekend, though. While the lump is out I may just have it to bits, so stand by on that.

As for the PNM brake kit, yes it works, but I haven't really tested it properly, because that infuriating ABS kicks in and buggers everything up under braking. Again, I have only myself to blame, I should have bypassed the ABS solenoids earlier. The Yellowstuff brake pads seem to work OK so far, though.

This has reminded me that the long-awaited electric handbrake kit from Hi-Spec should now be available, and I've been holding off any brake system decision until it is. PNM is due a call now.

[Loose Cannon]

Given that the majority of cursing seems to be about seized components it should be much easier next time, not to mention fresh in the mind.

Having done the job myself now I feel retrospectively aggrieved at paying someone else £800 a few years back to change the clutch when I should have just grown a pair of bollocks and got stuck in myself (and I now don't think they even did the full job...)

My coolant pipes were pretty good so I just blasted it with Dinitrol inside and out and worked them in and out of the grommets a bit. I thought the previous owner (Ken Baird) was being a bit overly cautios when I saw an old receipt for chassis rustproofing on a galvanised chassis, but now see exactly what he was trying to protect, the innards.

I would love someone to come along and say the Hi Spec stuff is a night and day improvement, it isn't cheap and it always falls to the bottom of the list. Perhaps it will be justified if the Brembos ever bugger up, which they seem to do regularly on other cars like Pugs/Fiats/Alfas etc, but for some reason seem better on Esprits.

[Sparky]

Fantastic!  At last I get to say I Told You So.

[Chillidoggy]

29 minutes ago, Sparky said:

Fantastic!  At last I get to say I Told You So.

 

Thus speaks a man who never hears that at home.

[Chillidoggy]

31 minutes ago, Loose Cannon said:

Given that the majority of cursing seems to be about seized components it should be much easier next time, not to mention fresh in the mind.

Having done the job myself now I feel retrospectively aggrieved at paying someone else £800 a few years back to change the clutch when I should have just grown a pair of bollocks and got stuck in myself (and I now don't think they even did the full job...)

My coolant pipes were pretty good so I just blasted it with Dinitrol inside and out and worked them in and out of the grommets a bit. I thought the previous owner (Ken Baird) was being a bit overly cautios when I saw an old receipt for chassis rustproofing on a galvanised chassis, but now see exactly what he was trying to protect, the innards.

I would love someone to come along and say the Hi Spec stuff is a night and day improvement, it isn't cheap and it always falls to the bottom of the list. Perhaps it will be justified if the Brembos ever bugger up, which they seem to do regularly on other cars like Pugs/Fiats/Alfas etc, but for some reason seem better on Esprits.

 

My coolant pipes aren't leaking. Yet. But I have no idea what they're like in the chassis, the ends look pitted, and it appears that there have been a few showing up with leaks into the chassis box, hence I'll be changing them while the engine is out.

I'm not the best guy to ask about the Hi-Specs as yet as I said. I have just got off the phone to PNM, and the electric rear parking brake calipers are now available, but not the integrated four-piston ones quite yet. They're threatened for the summer, so I shall have a good think about that. I am impatient to rid myself of that awful handbrake, but may just be prepared to wait a while longer.

http://www.hispecmotorsport.co.uk/electronic.html

 

[silverfrost]

Have seen a few that have been ally welded in the pourous spots to save purchasing on purchasing new ones.  Not sure how much the new ones from lotus are and it may be a false economy if they have to be pulled again.

[Chillidoggy]

The question is this: Is it worth pulling the engine and gearbox out again for an outlay of about £220, or should I have spent that money when the engine and gearbox were out the first time around? That's where I'm at.

There are any number of jobs that can be done without engine removal, but changing the pipes isn't one of them, and I should have done it the first time around,

[silverfrost]

No your quite Ian, 220 is justified   But personally would not beat yourself up about it, as your lump is getting pulled for the crank oil seals, which is a subject that has people on both sides of the fence when it comes to replace while engine is out,  Some people say do not change it when its not leaking as the replacement has the chance of leaking due to a fine ware mark on the crank, other say change it while the engines out.  

Obviously yours it leaking now, but it could of out lasted you without leaking a single drop !  Just one of those things. Put it down to murphys law as i do with everything that does not go my way in this world, 

[Rolls]

20 hours ago, ian29gte said:

 

My coolant pipes aren't leaking. Yet. But I have no idea what they're like in the chassis, the ends look pitted, and it appears that there have been a few showing up with leaks into the chassis box, hence I'll be changing them while the engine is out.

I'm not the best guy to ask about the Hi-Specs as yet as I said. I have just got off the phone to PNM, and the electric rear parking brake calipers are now available, but not the integrated four-piston ones quite yet. They're threatened for the summer, so I shall have a good think about that. I am impatient to rid myself of that awful handbrake, but may just be prepared to wait a while longer.

http://www.hispecmotorsport.co.uk/electronic.html

 

Alodine acid is a great protector for alu pipes. You just paint it on - it's like water. It's cheap. Aviators use it. It does leave a faint yellow tinge behind.

[Chillidoggy]

Thank you, Roland. I shall certainly be looking into some kind of corrosion protection for the pipes.

[Chillidoggy]

Engine removal day........

Using all the previous photos I took as reference, I slung the engine and gearbox, and winched the lot out. Shoved the car out, and split the two units, removed the clutch and flywheel, and put the gearbox to one side.

With the engine hanging from the winch in the air, I thought I'd have a punt at what I should have done the last time around. Six of the eight rear crank seal button head screws were so tight in the block, that even after me getting some heat on them, they refused to budge. I ended up rounding off the sockets in them, so they'll need an alternative solution to get them out.

The three I did manage to shift looked like they either had Loctite on them, or had corrosion on the threads, which, if they've not moved for 21 years, is entirely possible. Nothing I've tried so far has had any effect on them, I shall see if I have any other socket bit to hammer in to them, but I haven't found anything suitable as yet. Plan B is to drill the heads off, remove the seal housing, and then attack the protruding threads with the small stillson.

Plan C is to set fire to the garage, and retire to the pub.

 

[Loose Cannon]

Why are button heads used in the crank seal carrier? I was scared shitless taking mine out in case they rounded and took exceptional care, and a even then a couple just squeeked out before they span forever . As far as could be seen some regular or thin hex heads would have protruded no more if it is a question of clearance to the flywheel.

[Chillidoggy]

Maybe they're used so you can't torque them up too much!

I see no reason why they should be used, although I'd have to check the recesses in the seal carrier and clearance before instigating any change. Assuming I can get the old ones out, of course.

[Sparky]

Never had that problem. 

[Barrykearley]

Plan c looks the best option. But remove timing light and memcal adaptor from garage first

[Chillidoggy]

1 minute ago, Barrykearley said:

Plan c looks the best option. But remove timing light and memcal adaptor from garage first

 

I'll see what I can do!

[Barrykearley]

Don't forget the matches

[Chillidoggy]

On 09/01/2017 at 16:59, ian29gte said:

 

I also spoke to Channel Commercials in Ashford about reproducing the Lotus stickers in the front luggage compartment and on the engine cover. I've sent off the details and photos, so will see what comes back quote-wise. If they're any good, it could be a useful resource for anyone refurbishing or restoring their car.

 

 

I got the estimate back earlier. For any restorers interested, reproducing all the Esprit front luggage compartment decals and stickers using  the same fonts is around £150 plus vat from Channel Commercials.

9 minutes ago, Barrykearley said:

Don't forget the matches

 

You're going up the pub, too?

[Barrykearley]

Tempted - off to take he eldest to swimming - whilst I go and fit a couple of light fittings for some old folk round the corner from the pool. That'll be my good deed for the week done

[silverfrost]

10 hours ago, Barrykearley said:

Tempted - off to take he eldest to swimming - whilst I go and fit a couple of light fittings for some old folk round the corner from the pool. That'll be my good deed for the week done

Its all good Karma Barry   What goes around comes around , that good deed may well of stopped a potential drama on one of your esprits, however sadly it wont stop them all