Engine Running Issue

[Vulcan Grey]

Espritmon

http://tudl0493.home.xs4all.nl/#_Espritmon_download

 

You have a lot of codes...  that is possibly due to a low voltage issue, you mentioned the alternator is not charging?

 

Reset those codes, check the battery and alternator, and see if the codes come back.

[72 Formula]

Thanks Sanj for your help.

I think I attached the Freescan stats.

Are these numbers ok?mydata 2.csv

[sanj]

Hi Tommy,

 

For starters, your idle RPM is still a lot higher than desired, so whatever is causing that needs to be addressed first.

[72 Formula]

Hi Tommy,

 

For starters, your idle RPM is still a lot higher than desired, so whatever is causing that needs to be addressed first.

Thank you. Any ideas. Maybe a mechanical adjustment on the throttle cable? The ecu will sometimes drop the rpm to 1100. 

Should I rule out a vacuum leak cause the map is.53 to .57 and the baro is 83? 

Thank you

[sanj]

There should be a bit of slack in the throttle cable at the engine end, you can check this by gently pushing on the bare cable where it attaches at the intake manifold.

 

 

The MAP is probably in range for the RPM.

[Barrykearley]

If it sometimes drops the rpm .... You need to check the iac valve......mine had similar symptoms. Old iac was wobbly on the end and don't think it settled in the hole properly. Worth changing for the $ cost..... If it's not that you have a spare for when it goes wrong....

[72 Formula]

If it sometimes drops the rpm .... You need to check the iac valve......mine had similar symptoms. Old iac was wobbly on the end and don't think it settled in the hole properly. Worth changing for the $ cost..... If it's not that you have a spare for when it goes wrong....

It's a new IAC .In freescan  the range is from 0 to 94% when I press the gas petal. It could be the wrong part.

I bought a new vacuum gauge, connected the gauge, started the engine and the gauge never moved off zero. I can't find  vacuum anywhere. Is the high idle (1300 to 1500 rpm) killing the vacuum? The mechanical vacuum pump is not producing vacuum either.

Thank you for any help.

Tommy  

[Qavion]

 I was under the impression that you shouldn't get positive pressure in the manifold unless the turbo was actually doing some work moving the car. Sounds like the gauge is faulty if it doesn't work for either. What's the range of the gauge?

 

Are you getting vacuum from the mechanical vacuum pump that you can feel with your finger over one of the hoses? Try to pick a hose which is closest to the pump (before the hose branches out too much).

 

Can you get access to the pump itself the car running to see if it's producing positive pressure on the non-vacuum outlet. The outlet may be audible, but that can often mean the pump is faulty. 

 

See the pic in this thread for the vacuum pump (positive) outlet

 

http://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/33342-what-is-this-weird-engine-noise/

[Barrykearley]

It's a new IAC .In freescan  the range is from 0 to 94% when I press the gas petal. It could be the wrong part.

I bought a new vacuum gauge, connected the gauge, started the engine and the gauge never moved off zero. I can't find  vacuum anywhere. Is the high idle (1300 to 1500 rpm) killing the vacuum? The mechanical vacuum pump is not producing vacuum either.

Thank you for any help.

Tommy

You must have the correct iac - the pintle shape is absolutely critical - what part number unit did you fit?

The throttle position sensor needs adjusting - 0-94 is wrong - it should go to 100 - it need adjusting to 0.51-0.55 ish volts on freescan when engine off.

The vacuum must be showing suck..... If it's not - vacuum pump - check the pipe off of that and see what's there..... The vacuum pipe setup is crap frankly and pipes end up bust, chewed, fall off etc.......

These three issues are biggies - but the vac needs sorting as that does all sorts of fueling and manifoldy things with the Ecu

[72 Formula]

Update:

 

When I removed the IAC to inspect it, it fell apart. I used the cross-reference ( 04 Buick) and replaced the IAC. Throttle response is better, no hesitation. The TPS had a reading of .83, had no more adjustment, so I used a round file to slot the holes, which brought the reading down to 0.53 --  now when I press the gas petal it says 87 I had 94% . Rpm still climbs to 1500.

Still throws codes 41, 35, 26, 26, 26b, 26a.

Mat v= 2,78

 

Any ideas

Thank you

[Qavion]

The TPS had a reading of .83, had no more adjustment, so I used a round file to slot the holes, which brought the reading down to 0.53 --  now when I press the gas petal it says 87 I had 94% .

 

 

Sounds like you butchered the car to fix a possibly broken Throttle Position Sensor. If it's not the TPS, then perhaps you have an accelerator cable problem. Does the accelerator (gas pedal) feel sticky in any way?

 

Does the car still have an active EBPV or Throttle Jacking Capsule? If these have been deactivated, sometimes the Throttle Jacking Capsule mechanism can jam in the wrong position. This can affect the throttle position. See previous forum message threads about the disabling the Throttle Jacking mechanism.

 

 

 

Code 41 Engine Speed Signal Missing (sensor faulty?) Clean/check the plug on the flywheel sensor. A new sensor may be required.

Code 35 Idle Speed Error (possibly related to the TPS)

Code 26, etc. Multiple problems (perhaps long-standing ones). One of these problems relates to the Throttle Jacking Capsule relay (and EBPV), but try to confirm first if the system is active or inactive and we'll guide you from there.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Cheers

Ian.

 

P.S. Are you aware that Freescan should show close to 0~100% over the full range of accelerator pedal movement?

Edited June 22, 2015 by Qavion

[Qavion]

P.S. Here's a guide on removing the EBPV and Throttle Jacking Capsule. Note that some of the components may still be there on your car, however, even if the system has been deactivated.

 

http://www.lotusespritworld.com/EGuides/ETechnical/EBPV.html

 

If you look at the very last picture* of the guide on Lotus Esprit World (LEW), you will see the part of the Throttle Jacking mechanism which sometimes causes throttle problems (especially if the mechanism is not secured after the modification).

 

*EDIT: Sorry, not the very last one (That's a spacer).. The picture/s above it.

Edited June 22, 2015 by Qavion

[72 Formula]

Sounds like you butchered the car to fix a possibly broken Throttle Position Sensor. If it's not the TPS, then perhaps you have an accelerator cable problem. Does the accelerator (gas pedal) feel sticky in any way?

 

Does the car still have an active EBPV or Throttle Jacking Capsule? If these have been deactivated, sometimes the Throttle Jacking Capsule mechanism can jam in the wrong position. This can affect the throttle position. See previous forum message threads about the disabling the Throttle Jacking mechanism.

 

 

 

Code 41 Engine Speed Signal Missing (sensor faulty?) Clean/check the plug on the flywheel sensor. A new sensor may be required.

Code 35 Idle Speed Error (possibly related to the TPS)

Code 26, etc. Multiple problems (perhaps long-standing ones). One of these problems relates to the Throttle Jacking Capsule relay (and EBPV), but try to confirm first if the system is active or inactive and we'll guide you from there.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Cheers

Ian.

 

P.S. Are you aware that Freescan should show close to 0~100% over the full range of accelerator pedal movement?

I have ordered a new IAC and TPS  from Joe at JAE, well as soon as he reads his email. Throttle is free. Thanks for the directions. Someone removed the throttle jacking, so I will use the procedure you sent me to ensure that it was removed per instructions.

I think Michael told me that the check engine came on when he replaced the original ign module  with another module. The original one was lost. Yes, Freescan is where I got the .87, but I am still learning about the software. 

Thank you

[Barrykearley]

Tommy - the part numbers on the cross reference were wrong for mine.......... The pintle shape is the critical part.....

When I replaced with the "wrong" alternative - it filled by Ecu with error codes.......I had at least 6 fly up. And it initially did run better.

Part numbers are

Cv10151. Delphi

17112929. Gm

217-427. Delco

A910e6942f.. Lotus

Sourced from www.rockauto.com for a genuine Delphi one at £24.89 delivered

http://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/74755-air-idle-control-valve/#entry577502

[Qavion]

I think Michael told me that the check engine came on when he replaced the original ign module  with another module.

 

 

It might just be co-incidence that the light came on at this time. However, if you're waiting for parts to come, have some free time and are feeling brave, maybe you could check the earthing of the ignition module. I've heard that this can cause problems. i.e. Make sure the mating surfaces between the baseplate and the ignition module are clean. Unfortunately, it's in an awkward position under the airfilter box.

 

Regarding the IAC, I believe the ECM has to re-learn how to control the IAC to give the correct idle. When starting the car, put your foot half way down on the accelerator or the engine may stall immediately. Give the car time to get used to the new IAC.

 

When making sure that the deactivation of the EBPV and Throttle Jacking Capsule has been carried out properly, take note of which vacuum lines have been capped. Having the wrong line open to atmosphere can cause lots of problems.

 

Anyway, I have the feeling that a fix is on the horizon. It's great that you're finding parts that you can actually see are broken. Good luck with the new IAC and TPS Hopefully you can get rid of a few of those fault codes and then work on the others. That speed sensor, for example, is critical to engine operation (but let's change one thing at a time or you may never know what fixed the problem ).

 

Cheers

Ian.

[sailorbob]

Regarding error code 41, check the part number of the ignition module. Some people use the AC Delco D1927A (GM 10467214) ignition module which, whilst it will work, it causes the ecu to revert to batch injector firing due to the speed signal being missing.

[Qavion]

Tommy, I just noticed that you said the TPS was replaced already (in your first post). Assuming this is a recent replacement and hasn't broken again, perhaps it is the Throttle Jacking mechanism which is affecting the readings of the TPS (I assume because these things are mechanically linked, that the one might affect the other(?).

 

Anyway, one way or another that TPS will have to be readjusted. Also, after what Derek (Sailorbob) has said, it does look more and more like the speed sensor is also causing problems. Do check the plug on that first though before splurging more money on components.

 

Cheers

Ian.

Edited June 23, 2015 by Qavion

[Qavion]

P.S. (EDIT) The speed sensor is located on top of the right rear wheel hub (behind the brake disk). The manual suggests that you have to remove the wheel to access it. I don't think the plug is accessible from the top, so you'll probably have to jack up the right rear anyway.

[72 Formula]

Tommy - the part numbers on the cross reference were wrong for mine.......... The pintle shape is the critical part.....

When I replaced with the "wrong" alternative - it filled by Ecu with error codes.......I had at least 6 fly up. And it initially did run better.

Part numbers are

Cv10151. Delphi

17112929. Gm

217-427. Delco

A910e6942f.. Lotus

Sourced from www.rockauto.com for a genuine Delphi one at £24.89 delivered

http://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/74755-air-idle-control-valve/#entry577502

Thank you, Yes everything was going good until I drove the car down the road, the rpm went to 3000 when shifting. A Lotus IAC and TPS is on the way. Mine is the 0419 small pintle. with 2 angle changes, not 3.  

Looks like I need section EMH and MK. EMG shows the correct rear relay config, but with a 3 plug ECU, and without secondary injectors. I remember Art said he had to change the ECU when he added the charge cool.

Thanks everyone

[72 Formula]

Tommy, I just noticed that you said the TPS was replaced already (in your first post). Assuming this is a recent replacement and hasn't broken again, perhaps it is the Throttle Jacking mechanism which is affecting the readings of the TPS (I assume because these things are mechanically linked, that the one might affect the other(?).

 

Anyway, one way or another that TPS will have to be readjusted. Also, after what Derek (Sailorbob) has said, it does look more and more like the speed sensor is also causing problems. Do check the plug on that first though before splurging more money on components.

 

Cheers

Ian.

Yes, from what I understand Michael or his mechanic replaced it along with ign coils, injectors twice, speed sensors, had the ecu reprogrammed, temp sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, ign module, map and baro, vacuum tubing, looks like a coolant sensor, new injector cables  ,looks like a couple speed sensors,  and etc. A box full of parts. The TPS  looks great visually, but I could not get it from .86 to .53, so I modified the adjustment slot with a small round file which enabled me to get .53, but I lost full the  throttle range. I ordered a new IAC and TPS from JAE, it will be here Friday.  Well I never had 100% I think somewhere in the 94 to 97 %. with the TPS adjustment it dropped   to .87% or .84%, so either it's broke or the wrong part ? When I removed the IAC the pintle fell off. I will check the speed sensor between now and Friday. It's around a 100 degrees with a 108 heat index.

Thank you

[72 Formula]

Regarding error code 41, check the part number of the ignition module. Some people use the AC Delco D1927A (GM 10467214) ignition module which, whilst it will work, it causes the ecu to revert to batch injector firing due to the speed signal being missing.

Michael replaced the ign module ,, I will check the number. He gave me a spare.

Thank you

[lotus4s]

Before you get too hung up on the TPS reading, (87% or 94%) you need to make sure that the throttle body butterflies are actually opening 100% before you start adjusting the TPS. The sensor may be reading the throttle body butterfly position correctly at 94% and it just needs a slight cable adjustment to get to 100%.

 

To check you need a helper to push the pedal and visually inspect the butterflies by removing the plenum cover or manually checking to see that the spring loaded cam attached to the throttle cable is fully rotated open. 

[Qavion]

I remember Art said he had to change the ECU when he added the charge cool.

 

 

Now I'm getting nervous. This is a non-standard car? There might be all sorts of modifications we don't know about.

[Paul93Lotus]

If this is Artie's car (Art B.) it is a Frankenstein.  A non-chargecooled car converted to SE specs.  Has had a ton of internal engine work too that could have issues. Tommy...is your car black with custom wheels...but was formerly white?  Custom seats, etc.?  Looks amazing?

 

If this is his former car this could be a long journey to getting it running right.

Edited July 5, 2015 by Paul93Lotus

[72 Formula]

If this is Artie's car (Art B.) it is a Frankenstein.  A non-chargecooled car converted to SE specs.  Has had a ton of internal engine work too that could have issues. Tommy...is your car black with custom wheels...but was formerly white?  Custom seats, etc.?  Looks amazing?

 

If this is his former car this could be a long journey to getting it running right.\t's Arts old car.  help

Yes it's Art's old car. With everybody's help on the forum, we are almost there.