snowrx

I'd guess someone was trying to keep brake heat away from the ABS sensor wire.

If your car has a water cooled turbo, you can probably skip the timer. They had their day when the oil in un-cooled center sections could overheat and coke up the bearing in the center section, but later cars got coolant to the turbo.

For those of us outside the Cillit Bang market, active ingredients; Sulfamic acid (chemical formula HSO2NH2) Included in Cillit Bang because it’s good at cleaning metals and dissolving limescale. Sulfamic acid is used on a large scale by industry for these same reasons, but more importantly it is involved in manufacturing dyes and pharmaceuticals such as antibiotics and anti-cancer drugs. Sulfamic acid is also found in household products such as toilet cleaners. Phosphoric acid (chemical formula H3PO4, food additive E338) Phosphoric acid is found in fertilisers and water softeners, and is particularly useful at cleaning metals -- it is widely used as an industrial metal cleaner. This can be seen in some Cillit Bang ads, in which an old coin is rendered shiny. It can also be bought as a DIY product, generally in the form of a gel, which can be used to remove rust. Phosphoric acid is generally regarded as one of the safest acids for use in regulating pH in manufactured items – so much so it’s even used in skin-care products C9-11 Pareth-6 A powerful surfactant that’s safe enough to be used in skin-care products. This is the ingredient in Cillit Bang that removes grease and grime. C9-11 pareth-6 is even strong enough to remove the sticky traffic grime from cars and lorries.

I'll see your Trump and raise you a Herschel Walker. If you want to explore the mysteries of political belief and tribal loyalty, he's a perfect case of anyone but Them. How he can be neck and neck with an incumbent, given his seemingly toxic background, dishonesty, and poor speaking ability, is beyond me.

Early cars had fixed camber in the front, later ones had slotted upper arms with under bolt plates/shims to adjust camber. One can fit an adjustable upper link to the rear.

On my '85 USA TE it's safety wired into the aluminum pipe routing coolant above the alternator. Other (earlier?) cars had it in front by the radiator.

I think there's also a timer unit, fuse and and maybe an inhibit switch in the electrical box on the transaxle cover. The SHT. 3 (3A) reference is Ignition power to 2nd relay coil from fuse 23. Not keeping it simple.....

Mike Griese just removed the entire wiring harness out of his FrankEnSPRIT. Beyond awkwardness.... https://www.lotustalk.com/threads/frankensprit.417690/page-5#post-6211541

Viper Green aka Candy Chartreuse? I like it better than the recent eye-catching neon greens. Someone should do a rendering on an early car.

Sorry, mine's still on the car. Given that it fit a few years, I'd look a bit for a OEM front bracket take off before I fabricated one, as it's pretty nice as is and cad plated with a unique edge finish if you're looking for originality. Check the parts manuals to see how long the part was in use, post a WTB on Lotustalk, ask JAE.

Can't offer a template, but FWIW here's what the bracket looks like on an '85 LHD Turbo so you can see the stand-offs. Still has a A907El233K part number, so might be the same front plate, but the rear mount looks different on mine. A bugger to get the compressor mount bolts, and the belt is very tight to fit, so I took mine off for the time being as it wasn't working.

I was not thrilled with steering u-joints R&R. Repeatedly oscillating between under fender and full Lotus position, knowing I might have to do it again if it clocked wrong. Other job candidates fully suppressed in memory, lest potential resale/replacement rear its ugly head 🙈🙉🙊

I would of nipped off half a mil off of the minute hand, but glad you could fix it!

Start soaking the assemblies in the best penetrating oil you can get now while you plan the replacement. Reassemble with a good anti-seize compound to help the next guy.

2. If the diaphragm edge is leaking air, (lots of it) you would end up with more boost not less. Pressure from the compressor scroll/manifold is what opens the valve and allows exhaust to bypass the turbine, taking away speed from the compressor that would have built excess boost. Not sure on the other Q's; given the heat on the exhaust side of the wastegate, the paper might have been there to protect the diaphragm or prevent it from fusing to the hot cast iron? My memory of the diaphragm is that it's soft and rubbery, and should seal just fine when compressed without sealant, also not sure how Hylomar takes to hot conditions.

Capacitors (condenser) were used to help prevent arcing across the contacts of ignition points, maybe someone was trying to keep from ever replacing their brake switch?

I would think someone would be able to prank the audio cameras to take pictures of whatever was in front of them; stick a remote speaker on the camera and start snapping the police and politicians's cars.

If you can live with orange clock hands, you can find the VDO clock in Vision (backlit) for $50 and up https://www.amazon.com/VDO-370-155-Vision-Clock-2-1/dp/B019XF53SQ VW /Porsche / Audi and others used the Cockpit (more tick marks) series for a time in the eighties, you might find one used at a reasonable price.The illumination is edgelit on these, but the face doesn't match up as well. https://www.ebay.com/itm/125555971350?hash=item1d3bb81516:g:N1sAAOSwafNjNjbK&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoCWh%2F7UJlA%2FatzJ%2Fjybhy%2B%2FNJbxRG%2FBYYbJejZy1qXJiHM613mTHok4acQsxlQI0S8HbQ6GKm8P1o4coufFZyWdfflVkS9oW40ZlIurt2JiDQtf%2BEfBJ3npDjO1T1IwSNJTm162u%2FNwRCJhQZgwpWqMxQIWurYLVf%2FmVY%2FR1nbXd9SYwYVX8a1ccNCCJVC3LAUcUKYq9ByuEMUb%2Bhih7YP0%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7j2ua34YA But if it's indeed just a mechanical issue, and you can't break it more than it's already broke, you might carefully pry the back part of the bezel open enough to slip the bezel and glass way from the face of the clock and see if you can address the interference. Open the crimp just enough to get it off with out dinging the front of the bezel, and remember not to ding the front with pliers when you crimp it back on. And just to complicate things, are you sure you want the time rather than some other information like temperature or pressure or AFR or some other gauge that might fit in the same hole?

Could you post a pic/link of the wrench/rod tool? Thanks

Oh and to answer the original question, my (Smiths?) boost gauge seems to agree pretty well with the MAP sensor for my EFI, at least close enough I've never noticed a difference. But these cars are old, I'd tee in a cheap gauge to check against the one in the dash.

As to overboosting, you might also check that a prior owner did not fit some sort of boost controller, which would vent or block the hard line from the turbo to the wastegate. My '85 had just a hard metal line from the turbo compressor to the wastegate, I don't know how the '88 is set up. A sticking wastegate is not unusual on cars this age, it happened to me and I was able to free it from below.

I love those, but don't remember seeing one on the PC site

When I went looking for a better belt for my G-car, I found that one of the older Nissan motors used a trapezoidal belt, for which Gates makes the T104RB "racing" Blue Belt. 1mm narrower than OEM, but the better material and slips right on. So if you still have a trapezoidal pully set, there's an option for you.

A thicker head gasket to offset machining somewhat?

Thanks for posting pics, too far for me to drive there.