2011 Chrome Orange

That blocked out plate looks a bit too large to be from the US.

"The parts manufacturer was changed in late 2013 and any Evora's produced after that time should have the new wiring harness and therefore should not experience these types of issues." That's interesting since there have been at least a few GTs ('20 and '21) that needed new harnesses. https://www.lotustalk.com/threads/engine-wiring-harness-replacement-2020-2021.487518/ https://www.lotustalk.com/threads/understanding-the-evora-alarm.483516/#post-6095409 https://www.lotustalk.com/threads/evora-gt-wiring-harness.540723/

For what its worth... from the earlier Evora Service Manual: The exhausts primary flow path is through a multi chamber silencing system designed to reduce noise emissions from the exhaust gas. This silencing system generates excessive back pressure at higher engine rpm (and power) which could damage the engine. Therefore, Lotus has engineered a second flow path (by-pass system) that is controlled by a valve. When this valve is open the exhaust gas passes through only a small part of the silencing system before exiting the tailpipes and with the reduced back pressure this offers, allows the engine to safely generate full power. This valve is known as the Engine Protection Valve (EP Valve).

If you have a 2012+ the heat exchanger feed and return should be the metal version.

Hard to say from a sound clip on the internet. But, possibly the start of idler pulley, tensioner or belt squeal?

The car has to be happy with the brake switch position. Lotus states to start at 5 clicks out (of course, they set it up while hooked to their computer). For the rest of us, its trial and error to get it correct. My first replacement switch made the car happy with the plunger at 5 clicks. My last two switches needed 7 clicks out for the car to be happy. If the issue was the brake switch and you have it to the proper setting, the lights will go out after the 5th key cycle.

Unfortunately, that's all I have....

Have you tried a hard reboot? On the earlier models, there was a very small hole on the face to stick a paper clip into and it would reboot. I think on your model, you reset using the paper clip stuck in the little hole behind the removable buttons.

Yes, it can be tied to the door latch microswitch. However, you can generally tell that from the lack of door ajar image in the dash when you open the door (or the image is always on when the door is closed).

If your car has the power steering cooling pipe in front of the AC condenser, is it possible they removed it while installing the new radiator? If so, there probably is still air in the line and the steering needs to be re-bled. I had air in the line after my AC condenser replacement and had to repeatedly bleed the system to stop the jerky steering. It took over ten times of bleeding. The last time I had to bleed the system (another AC condenser replacement) it only took 1 attempt.

"The single throttle butterfly valve mounted at the inlet to the intake plenum is operated by a stepper motor under the command of the engine ECU. The valve moves through a range of nearly 90° and should display 100% at full throttle and around 2% at idle."

This is what I used before the lift. Note that I used a modified wheel dolly (that I mounted onto a spare floor jack saddle). But a board would do the same thing.

You can jack the rear lift point and place a stand under the front lift point. Then, if you have a second floor jack, you can place it under the rear tire (which would already be up in the air) with a small board and jack the rear tire to remove the first jack and replace with a jack stand. Just make sure you are doing it on level ground with the other side chocked. And, obviously do not go under the vehicle until it is fully supported on the stands. Before I bought my 4 post lift, that is how I would get my Evora on 4 jack stands using the appropriate lift points.

A132F6364S is no longer available as just the lever and ball. The whole gearshift assembly (E132F0004F) would have to be purchased now.

Just a thought on the fuel door.....When I brought home my brand new '11 and went for my first tank of gas, I could not get the fuel door to latch and closed. I would push on it and it wound immediately pop back open. After trying to close it for ten minutes at the pump where a crowd had gathered to ask questions about the car, I pulled behind the gas station to try to sort it. Turns out if I pressed it close on the hinge side it locked shut every time. And, its worked like that every time I've fueled since. So, perhaps pushing closer to the hinge would work.

There is an early model year 2012 over here with the non-Inteva (door sill button) latches.

I took a shot in the dark hoping all went well since I hadn't heard feedback from anyone that ordered from him. But, as I stated it went fine for me. I had a few questions ahead of time and he replied pretty quickly to emails. Once shipped, the tracking updates kind of stopped and then they just showed up at my doorstep. I think they took a while to get through Customs. Just keep in mind that the engine cover has the flat grille. Or, you can transfer over the grille from your existing cover. Although, its a pain to remove from the adhesive. I did that once already and didn't feel like going through it again.

In fairness to Carbon Lotus, I ordered a CF engine cover, as well as his CF door sills from him. I was very, very happy with both. The finish on them was very nice. It took a while to get them since I believe they are made to order, but they were very well packed in a wooden structure within a heavy cardboard box. There was no damage in transit. I will note that I did make my own embossed grille for the engine cover, as his is sold with a flat grille. I also used aluminum bar stock cut into spacers (as a filler underneath) to mount the CF door sills. Neither or which was a big deal. Especially since the S1s were not available with OEM CF door sills.

A few S1s over here were missing part #22 which is a cap that covers the front mounting pin. The missing cap caused the rattle. Others have found wedging thin foam in the front of the dash stopped noise issues. If you can pinpoint a location it might be worth a try.

There is a used complete assembly on ebay. It may get you back on the road in a pinch. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234686140643?hash=item36a46250e3:g:mwwAAOSw~i1jFwai&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoCsfodJdCS4xGl%2F3w97csSetwQl0EqNURBe7W%2FJuwr2OpodAvS9b%2FesRT%2BMnhcGF8g%2Bk49R0zh3dwGNgQdo%2BQ1nvSGqoOzIlire5f285oyGayLWtsIeKB83nJo%2Ft9YHsIeh2yG%2F%2B3DLiBS0YLFlpANV%2Fzkw5XKMGe1FcmwUnXAU3eNfC3ECMhKjjINhFmBsurPRC7seI9XDeoGKlSy11qq0%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR9SF_NDiYA

Glad to hear you had a good outcome! No harm no foul....

More to see:

Yeah, sorry about the thread hijack. But, your post brought my frustration back up. I knew that brake fluid could destroy paint. So, I wouldn't be surprised if it would damage PPF. Hopefully, you dodged a bullet and the film ends up fine in the end.

This is what I am currently dealing with.... I took my new daily driver (5K miles) to a dealer for warranty work when it was totaled from flooding. Of course, I cannot blame the dealer for an act of God or a natural disaster. However, I later learned they flooded 3 years ago where 42 cars floated off their lot and down the nearby river. So, they knew the propensity of flooding. I also reviewed my dash cam video (which kicked on as my vehicle went under and shorted out) and saw that when they moved my vehicle to the back of their lot just prior to the flooding, they moved ALL OF THEIR NEW INVENTORY off the lot so they could save them. (If you look in the one photo, you can see how empty the lot is. The vehicles still there were customers cars with license plates on them.) So, my insurance totaled the truck and paid me for my loss. But, I still loss my insurance deductible (and contents of the truck) which I believe the dealer should cover. I also had to pay much, much more for a new vehicle due to the crazy market and vehicle shortages etc. The dealer was also so nice to me that they even refused to let me get my vehicle off the lot for 7 days after it was flooded. The dealer said they (1). didn't know where it was-even though you could see it on the lot (2.) didn't know who owned it-even though I had proof of ownership (3.) were too busy to help release it-they were bringing their inventory back. This prevented me from trying to salvage it and its contents. On the 7th day, I went to the local police and had them escort me to have it towed (I owned it outright and had the title with no lien on it). I had intended to file criminal charges against them if they didn't release it (over here we have a charge for "theft of movable property" if you have someone's property and won't give it back). Long story short, its costing me much more money to fight them in court than I'm out but its the principal of the matter. I'm hoping they lose just so they learn a lesson.....that they should take the same care of a customer's car as they do their own. It will also be a public record of how they treated me. I should note that if I had not learned about the prior flooding (showing that they knew the lot could flood), the fact that they only moved their cars to save them (easily over 100 cars) and not the customers cars, or they let me get my vehicle to try to save it, I would never have taken action against them. I hate dealers and do my own work whenever possible in order to avoid them at all cost (this was for warranty work on a new vehicle). Most of them absolutely do not care about your property, only theirs. (Rant over 😉)

You are definitely taking this better than I would. The brake fluid could be chalked up to an accident. But, the oily prints would have put me over the top. When you pay good money to have someone take care of your car.........well, they should take care of your car!