Don262

I registered on the classifieds site so that I could put my car on sale at the weekend. Everything worked fine and add was posted. Came onto site today and found the advert had gone and I couldn't log on the site and it wouldn't let me re-register. Can somebody please give me some guidance as to what I may have done wrong because I don't have a clue how to fix it and I really do need to sell my car due to some serious health issues. Any help welcome. Many Thanks Don

I got 3 quarts and they cost £60.98 delivered from (JJC) Race and Rally on ebay . 2 quarts isn't enough.

I used Redline MTL 75W80 GL4 fully synthetic when I changed my transmission oil. I have the CR box in my 2010 NA. Opie oils recommend it as it improves the gear change, and I think it does.

Look on Lotus Talk. https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/. The go to: Lotus Evora > Evora How-to's > Replacing idler pulleys (N/A) Then click on "replaced the belt" which is in green lettering. This will then take you to a rundown of how to do it. In the paragraph above the "belt run image" click on "here" which is in green lettering, and this gives pictures of the job. Hope this helps.

Sorry, forgot to add that the alternative belt is specifically for the NA not the S Evora. The S requires the Gates K071130 that comes for the 1997-2002 Dodge RAM 2500/3500 Truck, and can be found on ebay for £61.95 with free delivery. Hope this info is of use to those who like to get their hands dirty!

Interesting that Lotus have decided that the belt needs changing after 4 years regardless of mileage. I wonder how many failures have been reported/recorded to bring on this change. After looking on Lotus Talk our American friends have already identified an alternative replacement belt, Gates K070822, for the 2007-11 Camry 3.5 that will do instead of the Lotus source belt. When I checked on ebay UK its available and is only £49.95 including free delivery. According to the Lotus Talk in the Evora- How to's to change the belt yourself takes about 1hour 30 min. However on the 2015 Lotus Labour Time Schedule it only gives 30 min for belt replacement which probably doesn't include removing and replacing wheel, inner arch liner and unclipping and reclipping wires and pipes etc. Anyone here aware of any belt failures?

I think that the actual total capacity is approx 2.2L. When I changed mine a few weeks ago I bought 3 american quart bottles (0.946L) of Redline MTL Fully Synth 75W80 GL4 gear oil, which works out at about 2.8L in total and I had about 0.5L left. Hope this helps.

Unfortunately there is only one fuse (C11 in the passenger footwell fuse box) that covers all the indicators and hazard lights, so I think there may be a fault either in the column switch or the wiring.

Solar yellow

Does the S1LE have an exhaust flap? My 2010 doesn't.

I had a small leak around the TPMS valve so I deflated the tyre , removed the valve core and then screwed in a valve thread cleaner. Then I carefully slackened the valve and pushed it in a little way (using the thread cleaner as a holding tool) so that I could see the internal rubber sealing ring. Then I got some clear silicone on a cocktail stick and applied a run of silicone around the inside of the valve hole in the rim and also around the rubber sealing ring. Then I re-tightened the TPMS unit and inserted valve core, and finally re-inflated the tyre to the correct pressure. Its been fine now for the last 2 years with no pressure loss. I suspect the rubber O ring seal was the problem but I will get it changed when I replace the tyres.

My car is will be 7 years old in September so its likely I will soon see TPMS failures. When I look on Deroure they are quoting £307.72 for four units including the seals , delivery and insurance. Seems a bit steep, are there any alternative suppliers that are cheaper?

Final update hopefully. The codes came back after a couple of days. I once again cleared them and the MIL light stayed off for the day, but then the following morning it came on after a couple of minutes idling after starting, and gave the same two codes. So I took the O2 sensor out and checked the wiring carefully but there were no apparent issues. So I bought a new sensor and installed it and I haven't had any issues since. I got the new sensor from DeRoure and hats of to them for a speedy service, part ordered at 2pm and it was delivered to me by 11 am the next day by Royal Mail. Great service.

Further update. I have now checked the wiring and connectors for both the post cat 02 sensors and they are fine, so I'm hoping that the codes were just a glitch. I did look on Lotus Talk and there was an instance where the cable tie holding the wiring had gone brittle due to the heat from the exhaust and this resulted in the wiring touching the exhaust and burning through the insulation, giving codes PO137, 139, 140 and 141. Hope this helps anyone who may get the codes.

Had the MIL light come on steady after overtaking a few tractors, when I dropped 2 gears and floored it. There was no change in performance and nothing odd with the engine. When I read the codes it came up with: P0140 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Post Catalyst) - Bank1 27 P0141 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit (Post Catalyst) - Bank1 24 Cleared codes and they haven't reappeared and MIL light stayed off. Any ideas as to why this has happened?

Mine is around the 2K mark, but we have 3 other cars so I tend to use the Evora when the weathers fine and a 4X4 when its snowing/icy. Other 2 cars do around 6K each.

Yawn, bored, C8RKH has the best line. OP is more b***s**t than good info. Best left to rot than waste time on more empty posts.

I'm with C8RKH why can't you post the whole picture?

Never got around to looking down the index page until today! I'm here in North Wales near to Mold.

Have a look at Ryanmt thread from 6th Feb 2015. He replaced his with a 28mm ID pipe sold as Bilge pipe (I assume for boats). Page 9

Yes that's fine. I've just changed the oil on mine and it stuck to the stick just like that. I gave the stick a clean with cellulose thinners and the oil did coat the dip stick better. I wondered about using 800 grit paper on the dip stick to see if the oil would adhere better but I haven't tried it yet. Maybe someone else has an idea to improve it.

I've got a pair of Falken FK452 rears 255/35ZR19 96Y with 5 to 6mm tread on them. They might do the job.

I thought the slave cylinder sat on top of the bell housing not inside, and the master cylinder was above/in front of the pedal box. Ok nigelh I'm into the spirit of things now, didn't mean to T you off.

The question was have you had a clutch plate change or not! Quite simple I thought, but then we seem to have mission creep and we now have a moving thread as to where a clutch should or shouldn't bite. I thought that Bibs was on to a simple outcome that might have put to rest some concerns about clutch plate life but there seems to be more abstract thinkers on here than SELOC!

No, and same as C8RKH, 2010 car and 18.5k miles