There's only so much you can adjust with the throttle. You can adjust the pedal range, the cable slack (the cable must have some slack when the engine is fully warmed up, or it can pull on the throttle and cause higher revs), and you can adjust the base voltage of the TPS at idle (engine off) by rotating the TPS when the screws are loose. By the way that should be between .45-.65V.
The ECU will control the idle via the IAC (Idle Air Controller stepper motor). DO NOT try to adjust the idle by adjusting the screws on the throttle butterflies!
I looked at your data, and while it was not an ideal run for data, it does look like your IAC counts are too high at idle. That can be a cause of poor running when starting cold (stalling), or it could be a problem with surging at low throttle openings.
You should start logging freescan from a cold engine, start the engine without touching the throttle or anything, and let it idle to a coolant temp of 82C. Let it stabilize there. The IAC should come down to between 20-40 at idle with a fully warmed engine. If it is higher, it'll cause poor drivability.
Your MAP should be = 1/2 Baro at Idle, and MAP = Baro when engine off. If not look for leaks.
IF your IAC is not between 20-40 at idle, then you might need to adjust the minimum air rate bleed screw (not the butterfly plate balance adjuster!) in very tiny increments (like 1/64th of a screw driver turn at a time) while watching the IAC on freescan to get it to stabilize between 20-40.