340R Purchase: the journey begins!

[GoldenGun]

Morning all!

Received my new (to me) 340R last night, and very excited!

The car was owned by one private owner from new, and has done just under 8.5k miles.  The previous owner was actually working with the Lotus management team at the time the 340R was being designed and produced, so the car was actually purchased directly from the factory, and has the 190hp upgrade.  
 

Very happy/excited about the new toy and looking forward to getting to know it. 
 

The car is in lovey condition but having Have started to draw up a list of things that I’d like to do, but lucky to have something in great condition as a starting point.

Some initial pictures…

 

 

 

The suspension components all look really tidy and in lovely condition:

As I’ve posted in my other thread, I need to tidy up some of the interior trim, and will be drawing up a list to get things sorted. 
 

Took a short drive this evening and found it was sensational to drive.  My only main critique was the shift action isn’t great. I didn’t realise there isn’t a detent spring to centralise the lever ?  
 

Thinking of upgrading to this: https://prodimex.co.uk/products/ultimate-s1-lotus-shifter-kit

Anyone already done it ?

More updates to follow!

Edited December 30, 2021 by GoldenGun

[Bibs]

That does look very nice, congratulations

 

[jep]

Great news. Don't lose the Koni dampers, unique to S1 Elise and no longer available. If you do replace, take wise advise and I would suggest Bilstein as per S2. I would avoid so called 'upgrades'. 

Gear change linkage can wear, I would keep as factory intended, you get used to it and it is part of the simplistic charm of all S1. Mine was sloppy at 40,000 miles and we just put in a new linkage. 

A set of magnesium wheels would be nice as I think those are the delivery wheels.

340R is peak S1. Congratulations.

Justin

 

[GoldenGun]

Thanks Justin, good advice!  

I was planning to keep original, except for any upgrades that improve the original car, but only if…

- justified due to improvements in engineering 

- fully reversible 

- doesn’t change how the car looks

- and improves the driving experience

I will have the linkage checked though, thanks!

The Konis seem fine, despite the age. It’s the only 340R I’ve driven so I don’t have any references for comparison though!

Edited December 30, 2021 by GoldenGun

[Bibs]

If they're shot they'll sound like a pool table most of the time, a dull rattle.

[GoldenGun]

Thanks.  No noises, actually I’ve been really impressed by the handling and ride quality.  
 

Assume the Koni’s can’t be rebuilt once shot ?

[jep]

I'm on original Koni dampers. No weight in car, so they don't suffer from sitting. 

I would drive the car for the summer and then reconsider any changes bar the bleeding obvious should they occur. Cambelt due every 4 years so check that. I sometimes leave 5 years if low miles ....

Check the oil regularly. Use 10/60 or 10/50. Castrol Edge (use to be called R) or Mobil.  Don't use a 0 oil....too thin. 

23/25 tyre pressures.

Justin

 

[GoldenGun]

Thanks Justin!  Yes, planning to get a big service done in Jan, and will get all the fluids changed at the same time. Noted on the oil, and will ensure i follow the advice.  Anything much to choose between 10/60 and 10/50 ?

Also, should the brakes feel very responsive/strong ? I know there isn't any assistance, but during my brief drive out yesterday, it felt as if the pedal needs to be stamped on to get it to stop?  Was expecting super responsive brakes, given the car is so light....  I know they are totally different cars, but my S3 Exige has incredible stopping power.

[jep]

Check the pads. Racing or track day pads can feel spongy. Road pads are preferably. 

Brakes from factory were progressive, not sharp or impactful as so little weight. Brake tech has moved on, Evora NA brakes are ridiculously strong but standard 340R are perfect for very fast road use.

If the car is for road use, don't mess too much with factory set-up.

10/60 probably best. 

Justin

 

[jep]

Correction: 5/50 or 10/60. Handbook info (ignore running-in oil, though perhaps your 340R is not run-in yet....😉):

[TomE]

On 30/12/2021 at 13:00, GoldenGun said:

Thanks Justin!  Yes, planning to get a big service done in Jan, and will get all the fluids changed at the same time. Noted on the oil, and will ensure i follow the advice.  Anything much to choose between 10/60 and 10/50 ?

Also, should the brakes feel very responsive/strong ? I know there isn't any assistance, but during my brief drive out yesterday, it felt as if the pedal needs to be stamped on to get it to stop?  Was expecting super responsive brakes, given the car is so light....  I know they are totally different cars, but my S3 Exige has incredible stopping power.

Congratulations.  Looks like a great example.  340R is on my list to own sometime soon.

I bought an S1 Exige last summer and had a similar concern about the brakes.  Obviously very different after the Evora's amazing stopping power, but didn't feel right.  Turned out the pads were old (glazed rather than worn) and rears were wrong spec.  Replaced with some new Pagid RS14s as a fast road pad and it's much better.  Still requires a shove but good progression and feel.  Mine were noisy initially but I then followed the factory bedding in advice, rather than the Pagid procedure.

[GoldenGun]

So I’m replacing the old brittle/cracked original tyres with a set of Yokohama AD08RS. 
 

Decided to remove the wheels at home so as not to risk the tyre place incorrectly jacking the car up.

 

The interior trim needs some attention.   I spoke to a vinyl wrap place nearby in case they may be able to wrap the blue sections on the sides/dash.  They are quite local so I offered to pop down but they didn’t want to look at it and indicated it wouldn’t be possible as the wrap wouldn’t adhere..

Also need to work out if I can remove the side trims without breaking them, as I don’t believe they can be sourced any more (items 1 and 2 below, part numbers A340U0068K and A340U0067K).

 

 

 

Edited January 7, 2022 by GoldenGun

[GoldenGun]

On 30/12/2021 at 13:32, jep said:

Check the pads. Racing or track day pads can feel spongy. Road pads are preferably. 

Brakes from factory were progressive, not sharp or impactful as so little weight. Brake tech has moved on, Evora NA brakes are ridiculously strong but standard 340R are perfect for very fast road use.

If the car is for road use, don't mess too much with factory set-up.

10/60 probably best. 

Justin

 

Do you know what the factory discs/pads are ?  Or are there better after market alternatives now ?

[jep]

Part numbers from workshop manual. Best chat to Bell and Colvill for info on original spec.

Brakes obviously have improved over the years but for fast road use, the standard spec or equivalent is ample. Absolutely no need to increase braking power. Elise Parts or Hangar111 good for sourcing. Bell and Colvill let me buy my Evora discs and pads from Elise Parts, which were exactly the same as from Lotus Factory but considerably cheaper. 

Racing pads are not necessary and could give a less satisfactory feel at slow traffic speeds.

Justin

 

[GoldenGun]

Thanks Justin.  Yes, i was just wondering if technology meant that better brake components were available (eg. lighter/etc).  I'm not likely to track the car, so fast road use seems absolutely fine.  I believe some folks recommend Pagid RS14s and wasn't sure if too much for road use.

[jep]

Brake pad preference is very personal it seems. I like good feel at low speeds for a road car, I don't mind sacrificing a bit of high speed stopping distance as in reality I am (hopefully) unlikely to use it.

I think the point I am making is, don't upsell yourself to race pads just 'cos it sounds macho. If the price is roughly the same, do as you please but if road pads are better value, try those. You can always change them.

Justin

 

[GoldenGun]

10 minutes ago, jep said:

Brake pad preference is very personal it seems. I like good feel at low speeds for a road car, I don't mind sacrificing a bit of high speed stopping distance as in reality I am (hopefully) unlikely to use it.

I think the point I am making is, don't upsell yourself to race pads just 'cos it sounds macho. If the price is roughly the same, do as you please but if road pads are better value, try those. You can always change them.

Justin

 

Totally agree with you, and I drive like Ms Daisy anyway so unlikely to need racing breaks!  But would definitely like good brake feel and the ability to stop in case I get brake tested by careless drivers on the road. 

[jep]

Go standard road pads, Phil at B&C service will tell you the correct ones. I forget the make but have the info somewhere on file.

Justin

[GoldenGun]

Been awhile since any updates due to busy work, family schedule. 
 

so swapped the cat and installed the bearings for the shift cable (the old rubber ones had disintegrated). 
 

[GoldenGun]

Sorry for the delay in updating I have finally been able to hand the car in to Bell & Colvill for a mini recommission.  
 

The current list of works includes:
- full C service 
- replacement of all brakes and pads (going OEM as @jep recommended) and brake fluid
- check and adjust cam timing, need to source the verniers as B&C weren’t able to
- installation of PRRT
- installation of prodimex shift mechanism 
- replacement of all hoses with upgraded silicone replacements 
- check radiator and replace if needed (think it’s been done previously but want to be sure)
- check fuel tank and replace if needed
- replacement of all bushes, any worn/rusty fasteners
- considering suspension overhaul (advice welcomed!). 

I will update this list in case I forgotten anything. Interior to be refreshed after the mechanical bits have been done. 

Wish me luck!



[jep]

On suspension, you can't get the Koni original shock absorbers so stick with them unless there is an obvious problem. 

Do not be tempted by so called 'upgrades' to factory Lotus suspension. Lotus are set up perfectly for fast road use, that's what you are paying for by buying a Lotus. The factory know best. If you have to alter the suspension, do as the factory advise (probably Bilstein). 

Never reduce body roll or suppleness in a road Lotus. 

A Lotus used principally on a track may be different and a change in set up can be warranted but leave a road car as original as possible. 

Exciting times for you.

Justin 

 

[GoldenGun]

Thanks Justin. 

i haven’t taken a car on track yet and not planning to do so with the 340.  I just want a nice and compliant fast road car. 
 

was just thinking that damper technology must have evolved over the last 20 years so wasn’t sure if there were damper/spring combinations out there that are true to the 340R ethos but potentially just better for the car ?

[jep]

You won't get a more compliant ride than the factory set-up from 2000. 

You simply won't notice any marginal increase in cornering ability by a potentially more sophisticated shock/spring installation on the public road. 

You've bought a car, an era defining car, in the S1 Elise. Best experience it as it was intended and built. 

Why mess with greatness?

Justin

 

 

[GoldenGun]

Fair enough.  Will try to get the OEM shocks and springs.  Hopefully new bushings will also help. 
 

have some 3-way nitrons about to be installed on the Exige hence just checking !

[Maxi_z]

On 16/08/2022 at 09:44, GoldenGun said:

- installation of prodimex shift mechanism

Any update on the prodimex shifter and on the interior refresh ?

 

Just bought a low mileage 340R and some of your initial impressions are the same , spongy brake feel ( not sure if my car is fitted with pagid RS14 or something else )

and usually the RS14 are a really agressive brake pad on other cars , the gear lever feels like there isn t much return spring , and the interior paint require a refresh.

 

I ordered a prodimex shifter ( just to improve the feel even vs a restored oem shifter ) and some elise parts cables ( I think the old oem cables could be full of old grease and

the elise parts cables will be new better and replace the oem rubber bushings with something better and more precise )

 

On my 340R the suspension bushings and everything related seems in really perfect shape , and as it s a light car the oem bushing can be ok if in good condition.

If you require to replace those I would still fit either powerflex or elise parts polyurethane bushings , or if you want for more precision or track usage you can use Nitron or elise parts

uniball metal bearings , they are not really necessary especially for a road car , but still I used them on a 260 cup and there were not any noticeable increase in noise or vibration.

 

The Koni OEM dampers do feel good and well balanced , and as suggested they do not make them anymore so you can probably find a place to get them serviced and revalved

if required ( maybe at koni ) and if you replace them with something else keep them of course.

There are other suspensions that are really good and even better ( Nitron, Quantum, JRZ, Ohlins, Intrax , AST , etc ) and if you want something more specific for track or better for irregular roads you can get something better for sure , but of course aftermarket suspension will not necessarly be better valved and balanced for your expected use , and the koni are already good.